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Old 11-27-2015, 08:23 PM   #21
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I do not have the party deck.When the door is closed,the springs are loose and rattle,maybe 1/8" slop.THE DOOR IS SO HEAVY TO OPEN that it takes both my wife and I to keep it from crashing down when it is lowered. No cracks or splits in the corners.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:27 AM   #22
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Lippert opened a case number for my ramp door problem. They want me to take it to my dealer for inspection. My dealer is busy so it will be JAN 6 before they can look at it. I will keep youse guys advised of the outcome.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:38 AM   #23
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Glad you're getting help Andy!
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Old 02-19-2016, 09:29 AM   #24
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Here is an update for my door issues.

Lippert agreed in mid January to replace my ramp door. The door was supposed to ship on FEB 5. My dealer is still waiting on the part.
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:15 AM   #25
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At least they helped you out.
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:19 PM   #26
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Lippert puts out tons of crap . I'm sure the ramp doors are no better then the electric steps , fold out couches and all the other products they produce . just once i'd like to see a quality product produced for the rv industry
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Old 03-28-2016, 06:01 PM   #27
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I finally got my camper back home. The good is that I got a new ramp door and it didn't cost me anything. The bad is that the door is made the same as the 2 that previously failed. The length of time for repair is mostly charged to Lippert. They took a long time to approve the change and then took several weeks to ship the door. Lucky for me, I had planned to spend the winter at home anyway.

My dealer says he has replace a lot of Lippert ramp doors. Odd that I never got a response here from someone who has had door problems.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:20 PM   #28
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I think I have figured this out. I took a good look at my new door, including pulling some of the hinge bolts out. The actual door does not extend to the bottom 2 bolts on the hinges. The bolts just pass through the aluminum channel that seals the bottom edge of the door. I am going to make some pieces to try an beef this up.

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Old 04-06-2016, 06:07 AM   #29
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What you found makes sense as to why the problems is happening; it makes no sense why LCI makes it that way.

Are you thinking of adding a wide piece of metal on the inside linking (bolting) the "floating" channel to the actual door?

If the door is still nearly weightless, maybe removing a spring or two would put less strain on it as well? I only have 3 springs, as mentioned previously.

Attached drawing showing unattached bottom channel and new plate in green. I borrowed the drawing some else had made.
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:08 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfWhistle View Post
What you found makes sense as to why the problems is happening; it makes no sense why LCI makes it that way.

Are you thinking of adding a wide piece of metal on the inside linking (bolting) the "floating" channel to the actual door?

If the door is still nearly weightless, maybe removing a spring or two would put less strain on it as well? I only have 3 springs, as mentioned previously.

Attached drawing showing unattached bottom channel and new plate in green. I borrowed the drawing some else had made.
WW
I plan to add some plates like you have shown, something bigger on the corners that I can tie into the aluminum channel on the sides, and some longish straps that will be on the outside. I believe that if I strengthen the hinge line, the springs will be OK.
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