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Old 07-23-2015, 05:49 PM   #11
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Raise the front of the trailer?

This probably would work really well as high as my front jack will go. But we have a 30fqsl TT.

It definitely helped while changing a flat tire. I only needed an inch more to get the rear wheel off the ground while the front tire was on a drive up ramp, so I lowered the front. Worked like a champ.
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:03 PM   #12
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I added the husky foldup foot thingy and can really raise the front... X2 what OC said. Crank up the tongue with the foot has not failed me. A ramp extension done right would also work.
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:09 PM   #13
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I hope to get some wisdom from the gurus on the site. I have a 2014 XLR27HFS. I just purchased a Harley freewheeler trike and found that I can get it up the ramp but cannot get it down the ramp. The pipes will bury themselves in the dirt backing down the ramp. How can I get less of an angle on the ramp so that my pipes will clear the ground as I go up and down? It's the ground to ramp angle and not the hinge angle that's the problem. Thank for any wisdom.
Same problem with race car trailers...cars low, oil pan hangs up.....we add an extension to the door and hinge it so it lays flat against door (on the inside of door). That way it's always there and won't scoot .
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:27 PM   #14
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Thanks for all the ideas folks. I can raise the front and probably get it out, but what about when I'm set up at a campsite? I can't take it apart every morning and night. I suppose I'll devise some ramps.
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Old 07-24-2015, 10:03 AM   #15
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I think ramps would be your best bet. Only need two and just make sure where the ramps are position for the rear tires they clear any footpegs or crash bar up front and you should be okay.


I would even go as far as fabbing up some kind of rack to hold them under the trailer to keep them out of the way from inside storage.
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Old 07-24-2015, 10:12 AM   #16
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94' FLSTHC. I raise the front if I have too. Or on the way in I find a small elevation change I can back up to. Park at night under the loft of the 5er.
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:40 PM   #17
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Had the same problem. Ramps or boards work well. I carry 2 2x8's, 6 ft. long, marked the positions on the ramp door, cheap and works great. Made a rack under the 5er to store them. Once the trike is out, it stays out under the front of the overhang.
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:45 PM   #18
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I'd just buy the aluminum ramps from Lowe's set partially on ramp door rest out toward the end and off ramp. Later RJD
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Old 07-24-2015, 02:13 PM   #19
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I have an XLR 30 fqsl and a Harley with pipes that dig in when exiting the ramp. My high tech solution after beating up my aftermarket pipes (you just can't come off slow enough!) was to place 2 - 2x8 blocks under the round bumper pads on the outside of the door. I still don't like that the "nonslip door surface will not let me use my front brake to keep things at an acceptable exit speed, as I don't need the pads when i drive UP the ramp! Try barely getting on the ramp and then immediately backing down to check how much clearance you create this way. Your trike may have different needs than my Ultra.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:01 PM   #20
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Two of these and you are good to go Tri-Leveler - $14.75
I had the same problem with my Tri-Glide dragging pipes going in and getting stuck in the dirt coming out.
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