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Old 04-20-2016, 08:49 AM   #11
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Personally I've had two travel trailers and 2 5th wheels all over 30' and the latest being 37' and never drug the tail, so I must be doing something wrong.
The layout of The Beast has a LOT of caboose extending beyond the last axle so I get tail dragging in and outa my driveway and occasionally in big dips in campgrounds. Bad design in my mind, but who am I to say. I needed them, else re-grade the driveway at $$ expense. They've saved my azz, but to each his own.
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:58 AM   #12
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Yes but if you drag and flex the frame and fiberglass sidewalks with no wheels then add 6" more you've just flexed your unit even more.
Personally I've had two travel trailers and 2 5th wheels all over 30' and the latest being 37' and never drug the tail, so I must be doing something wrong.
Don't mount the wheels at the low point. Do a little geometry and mount them at a location where they won't contact until your current contact point is, say 1" from scraping. For example, if your current contact point is the stabilizers, mount them to the sides of the stabilizers and 1" lower (bottom of the wheel 1" lower). Very little additional lift on the frame and, as ep pointed out, a nice smooth roll will be much better on the entire rig than an extremely high friction drag.
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Old 04-20-2016, 03:07 PM   #13
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Would be nice to get FR design engineer on this one! Drug my rear stab jacks getting into a fuel stop, roughly $500 in damage to the electric jacks. Have pondered installing a set of wheels, concerned about size of wheel, 6 inches seems a bit extreme, 2-3 inches might not be enough even on the end of frame. Concern is would smaller wheels protect stab jacks.
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Old 04-20-2016, 03:34 PM   #14
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I've got a 29hfs have never drug but when I do the rear manual stabs go bye bye. So to me the issue is what costs more wheels or stabs. I could fabricate a mount so the rear stabs could be removed ... then I'll probably drive off and forget them. It isn't a problem so I shouldn't make it one.
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Old 04-20-2016, 06:47 PM   #15
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Trailers have a VERY bad habit of doing the tail scrap and having a couch as heavy and big as the XLR'S can be, you very likely to hit in some other bad condition again. I would go with the 3 inch version if you can make them fit (measure twice cut once) as they will carry more weight.
Hope this helps and Happy camping
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Old 04-20-2016, 07:59 PM   #16
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Would be nice to get FR design engineer on this one! Drug my rear stab jacks getting into a fuel stop, roughly $500 in damage to the electric jacks. Have pondered installing a set of wheels, concerned about size of wheel, 6 inches seems a bit extreme, 2-3 inches might not be enough even on the end of frame. Concern is would smaller wheels protect stab jacks.
Wheel size is actually not the deciding factor. Take a bit of string, anchor it at the bottom of the rear tire, then pull it back to the bottom of the rear bumper, with the string going across the bottom of the jack. That is your departure angle. Route it by the jack so you have a direct frame of reference.

In order to not cause undue stress on the frame and not drag more than necessary, you want the wheel to hang down about an inch lower than the lowest point which are your jacks. Pull the string straight while touching the bottom of the jack, then about six inches back from the jacks, measure down to your string. If it's 2 inches, then the 3" wheel would work fine. If it's 4 inches, then get the 6" wheel and adjust the mounting point forward to make it about an inch. Don't forget to factor mounting brackets in, which will account for roughly half an inch at least.

Remember, when level the wheel doesn't need to hang below the jacks, it needs to hang lower than the string. With the trailer level, it might look like the bottom of the wheel is level or even higher than the jacks, but so long as when you pull the string taught and raise it to the jacks, if it hits the wheel first then you're golden.

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Old 04-20-2016, 08:33 PM   #17
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I'm with you, if it must drag, let it drag!
I had a 1982 Corsair Travel Trailer I put wheels on the back and cut the skid plate off. I crushed the frame, The guy that bought it was parking it so it didn't matter to him. I would be careful.
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:37 PM   #18
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I had a 1982 Corsair Travel Trailer I put wheels on the back and cut the skid plate off. I crushed the frame, The guy that bought it was parking it so it didn't matter to him. I would be careful.
Either way, you would have crushed the frame if you dragged it that hard.
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:45 AM   #19
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Either way, you would have crushed the frame if you dragged it that hard.
That's what I'm having a hard time getting my head past. If you're going to drag, you're going to drag- how do the wheels make it worse (other than the slight loss of clearance)?
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:16 AM   #20
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That's what I'm having a hard time getting my head past. If you're going to drag, you're going to drag- how do the wheels make it worse (other than the slight loss of clearance)?
You are right... and they don't... IF... mounted properly.

Clearance is the issue here.
Adding 6" wheels to the contact point of the frame on a unit that regularly drags is only going to drag more often.

But... adding 6" wheels in a manner that they only extend down, let's say 1" more than the contact spot, will likely save some of the stuff you have been dragging off.
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