Road trip Seattle to Ohio 2016 XLR Hyper Light 29

[taken]

My wife's Durango doesn't have it either. Discovered it on a snowmobile trip when my enclosed sled trailer's interior lights still worked after the vehicle was shut down. Glad I didn't notice after they were on all night at -25...

[Play Harder]

You guys are correct Fuse is missing spot 21 to charge TH from TV of course it a strange square fuse.


They have bigger heater the same size and width but daw more amps think you would need a dual battery setup run all night - the one installed daws 3.1amps a 30btu draws 5.1 -- as for propane use if you have the right size heater that provides the correct heat - it will use less fuel because it's not on 24/7

The heat ducting is all above frame ran thru the bottom of kitchen and bathroom cabernets - I doubt it got up to 50degrees last last w furnace running all night -so if you have one on order or going to pick one up I would have dealer install a bigger unit.

Here's what I think I'm going to do is get a 30/40BTU install it where the original is and move that one to the garage and change out the propane tanks -


Get out and Play Harder😛

2015 XLR Hyper Lite 29hsf - loaded on order
2008 Can Am Spyder
Kite Boarding is my Addiction - GOT WIND!

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by taken

Ford's are relayed so they don't draw on the charge line when the ignition is off. Ram isn't and is hot all the time. Not sure about GM.

That really depends on the set up . most all are add on's and not factory unless ordered that way . installing one is a breeze and should be on all TV's

[taken]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

That really depends on the set up . most all are add on's and not factory unless ordered that way . installing one is a breeze and should be on all TV's

All Ford's come relayed now which includes the OP's father's 150 Eco. THe 150's come with the relay and fuse in a bag and the SD trucks come with them installed from the factory.

[Rookie19]

Originally Posted by Play Harder

Scoop on ecoboost Ford F-150 w max tow package 12k rated -- expect to get around 5-6 MPG direct from ford dealership no codes found service looked it up in data base and that's what to expect when towing 8k plus - So ford advertises how great their ecoboost truck tows and how you get this incredible gas Milage --- what a bunch of BS - yeah it can do it but not at the same time!👿

Another observation

Ford truck did not charge my TH battery when in motion yesterday so battery almost dead last night - so check that when picking up

Should of brought my Chevy -Chevy Gods are laughing at me right now😳😁

#2 it was 27degrees last night - the gas heater will not come even close to heating this TH - will be contact acting FR about that especially w extreme winter package --- I know some have stated heater was weak but this is unacceptable -

They are plenty of bigger heaters 30,35,40 btu heaters out same brand that will fit in location no problem - will be working on this issue

Yes I can get Electric heaters but I'm not always plugged in and running generator all night is not an option at some places..

An the adventure moves on to hopefully Montana tonight


Get out and Play Harder😛

2015 XLR Hyper Lite 29hsf - loaded on order
2008 Can Am Spyder
Kite Boarding is my Addiction - GOT WIND!

That mpg stings!!!! Reminds me of my father inlaws 454 that gets 5mpg no matter what. Lol!

I get 9-10 towing our loaded 12k racecar trailer doing 70-75.

Which Eco boost do you have?

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by taken

All Ford's come relayed now which includes the OP's father's 150 Eco. THe 150's come with the relay and fuse in a bag and the SD trucks come with them installed from the factory.

Now maybe but it was not always that way . I wouldn't know about Fords . I like driving trucks not working on them lol . That's why i own chevys

[WolfWhistle]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

When you open the underbelly to add much needed insulation you will see the ducting for the furnace most likely uninsulated . get some duct insulation and go to work . most the heat loss is from the ducts so by the time the heated air gets to the register it's lost 20% of the heat

No ducts under the unit. Ducts run from furnace through kitchen cabinet, rearward under the fridge, through the panty cabinet, then the bath cabinet then to the garage wall. I think there aer 4 "registers" total; but very accessible.

I insulated the floor (and pipes) as much as I could access by not dropping a tank, and I think it helps, but if I did it again, I would add R-19 or better directly to the upper side of the belly material (coroplast) from end to end and side to side. I will take more support than just the frame rails since this method won't support the coroplast alone.

A 35K BTU in the original place and the 20K BTU in the garage will definitely do it, maybe overdo it. I would bet with only an additional 20K to the garage while keeping the 20K where it is, it would be enough. That's 40K and quite a lot of heat.

If you can find a true HVAC expert that knows a little about RVs, this would be good. By installing a 20K in the garage, forward of the back door, it might be possible to run duct into the main cabin; at least to the bathroom to share that 20K. I would think 20K would be too much for garage alone.

You don't want it to run all night, but you also don't want it cycling too quickly either.

I thought about (when I had the belly off) running a duct underneath to the other side of the bedroom wall. This would be important if the doors were closed IMO. With the bedroom doors closed it could get very cold in there; for the bedroom there is one register aimed that way. If your's is like mine.

[northstar1960]

No ducts under the unit.

Well another lie from a dealer that doesn't know anything about what he's selling . Good to know I won't have problems finding and wrapping them . 2 weeks to go

So when you went underneath you did not glue up the good insulation ? just used spray foam ? I plan on gluing up the 1.5" Styrofoam sheets and then spray insulation in the gaps . then seal the cover very well

The dealer told me the underneath was partially heated through the duct work on the furnace ..

[taken]

The duct work is under the floor in the main living area but in the garage it comes through the wall from the living area.

[STLfan]

Hope you saved some of that gas money for the ride home! Yikes!

Anyway congrats on the new unit. I love mine and I'm sure you will yours.

[bulletbob]

Originally Posted by taken

I believe this is necessary because under the garage floor of many haulers is the fuel cell which is vented. You can't insulate and enclose the fuel cell area.

Correct. The fuel area can be covered in any way.

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by taken

The duct work is under the floor in the main living area but in the garage it comes through the wall from the living area.

Well doesn't seem i can get a good answer anywhere . under the floor not under the floor . Guess I'll find out for myself in 2 weeks

[taken]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

Well doesn't seem i can get a good answer anywhere .

You just got one....

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by taken

You just got one....

it's seems i did . I assumed there was some ducting below . and wolfwhistle says he opened up and insulated underneath and should have seen a duct if he did so . either way it works out I'll find out for sure . not saying i don't believe you but have gotten more misinformation from the dealer and from here that I'll deal with what i find when i get my hands on the unit in 2 weeks .
.

[taken]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

it's seems i did . I assumed there was some ducting below . and wolfwhistle says he opened up and insulated underneath and should have seen a duct if he did so . either way it works out I'll find out for sure . not saying i don't believe you but have gotten more misinformation from the dealer and from here that I'll deal with what i find when i get my hands on the unit in 2 weeks .
.

I hear you. It's almost getting to be a stereotype that the customer knows more than the dealer. With the vast info available on the net these days it takes an actual enthusiast salesman to keep up with the ins and outs of each model. Sadly, these guys are few and far between. You really have to be your own advocate... I was lucky enough to have a very educated guy that could keep up with my questions during my build. One reason I would recommend my dealer to ANYONE...

[STLfan]

IMHO! I would listen to Bulletbob before ANY dealer. He's in the industry and very familiar how the XLR unit is built and what you can and can't do. Just saying take his advice and all will be fine. Camp On my forum friends!


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

[chuckw5kav]

On the fuel issue, I have driven between the West Coast to the
East coast many time's, at times once a week turn around running
as a team driver.

Worst states for fuel mileage is Nebraska, Kansas, Wyoming,
South Dakota headed west, great fuel mileage headed east.
Also people do not realize that you are going up hill either
direction till you pass over the great divide, might not seem
like it but you are.

Another tidbit is that I 94 is the shortest distance between
Between Chicago and Billings, not I 90.

If you use US 212 Between the Little Big Horn and
Bel Fourche SD you can cut 90 or more miles off I 90. The
only problem with this highway is that gas stations are
far and few between and it is a 2 lane highway, lots of
trucks at times.

[taken]

Originally Posted by STLfan

IMHO! I would listen to Bulletbob before ANY dealer. He's in the industry and very familiar how the XLR unit is built and what you can and can't do. Just saying take his advice and all will be fine. Camp On my forum friends!


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

Well, that goes without saying. He's the plant manager at XLR and has helped me out a ton while mine has been on order. However, he can't possibly answer all the questions a new or potential owner might have during the buying and ordering process. That's why some dealers really need to learn their product better. Kind of like, when buying a Ford truck you shouldn't have to contact the CEO of Ford to get accurate info. I sure am glad he's here though for the times when a dealer falls short. The fact that he's doing it voluntarily on his own time speaks volumes to the man's character and how strongly he feels about his brand's reputation.

[stevejd235]

Originally Posted by Play Harder

Ok here's the scoop on the Anderson WD 1st make sure your level - I had truck a little pointed up in rear because TH was in RVWHOLESELLERS shop and truck was out side. This made the hitch set too low, witch screws up all the WD stuff

2nd make sure you can tighten screws behind bushing to 90ft lb - I also had my attachments set to far up on frame - even though the directions say set at 27.5 from front of attachment it's more like 29.5 To front of attachment if this is wrong you can't get the WD hitch to move the weight to your front axle on your TV -

Ok so we took my dads TV a ecoboost f150 1/2 ton HD loaded w tow package rated to 12k towing at first I thought we where gonna have a very long ride home because the WD hitch was not correctly installed - the front truck axle where floating all over the place --- stupid __ finally found a place big enough to readjust - moved ball up 2 on receiver moved fram attachments back tighten to 95ft lbs ---- can I say HUGE difference

I'll post pics on Anderson hitch

Play Harder,
I hope your continued travels home are uneventful. Maybe even a tail wind to help with the MPG...

But I am curious if you can post up some comments and possibly some pictures of the Andersen hitch. I'm guessing you have over a 1,000 miles experience now. My fingers are crossed that it's working like you thought it would...

Thank you for all the shared information you have supplied your trip to/from RVW. I know many people have enjoyed this post...

[JohnRiordan]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

it's seems i did . I assumed there was some ducting below . and wolfwhistle says he opened up and insulated underneath and should have seen a duct if he did so . either way it works out I'll find out for sure . not saying i don't believe you but have gotten more misinformation from the dealer and from here that I'll deal with what i find when i get my hands on the unit in 2 weeks .
.

The ductwork for the furnace goes through the cabin, and not under the floor. Furnace is under fridge and tees from there. Runs under water heater and front sink. Then the other way it goes through cabinets and under bath sink to back. There is no heat in the underbelly, just insulation if you have extreme package. Also with that package you have heated holding tanks just to keep liquid in tanks from freezing. The 12 volt heat pads for tanks do not provide any heat for anything else, just tanks. The water lines do run in the underbelly though and can freeze in extreme weather for a period of time.