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Old 08-20-2014, 04:15 PM   #51
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wvmtn, I believe new units will have the 4400 lb axles based on the fact the website specs have changed to that. If that is the case, you may not have the capacity to carry 2 full size motorcycles, water, batteries, food, clothes, etc. You will need to be very careful loading.

Also, your truck would be a concern of mine as well. I have a 29hfs, I feel it is to much for a 1/2 ton truck. The numbers look good, but the experience will not be as pleasant. A 3/4 or better truck just has more weight so it isn't pushed around as easy, and has more braking and cooling reserve as well usually.
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:35 PM   #52
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wvmtn, x2 what Scooter86 expressed. The new brochure does show the lower rating (1300# lower). I wonder if with the Extreme Pkg (this is the cold weather package, which I recommend, by the way!!) would you get the 5200# axles and the higher capacity?? You need to know for sure... get it in WRITING! Maybe you can specify the heavier axles from the factory... dunno. I tried towing a 7000# TH and I hated to pull it. I had to constantly be involved in gear choices, etc. It didn't have enough torque or enough brake. Enter the XLR... the 29HFS with a GVWR of nearly 11,000#. Just my opinion, but no 1/2 truck can do it comfortably. I wouldn't do it. Either go big with the TV or smaller on the TH. The thing is we keep getting bigger units and hauling more stuff, a little reserve capacity is smart.
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:29 AM   #53
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I'm pulling a Passport 3050BH now with my EcoBoost F150. Plenty of power for towing. I hate my hitch, but that is another story. It is 33'. I'm looking at the 29hfs. Weight looks to be fine, way under the 11.3k of my TV. The heavier axles would be nice, but i'm going to put my RZR in the back, so at 900lbs, the total capacity shouldn't be an issue. If you are putting two bikes back there, I would suggest finding some weight to put up front. Tongue weight is the key, imho. My only concern is the rear entry height, not sure my toy will fit without a ramp extension.. Which is a problem.
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:46 AM   #54
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I have a F250 with a V10 and it pulls fine but I wouldn't want to do it with a F150 I feel like it just isn't enough truck weight wise. If you live in a flat area and that is where most of your towing has been done you may gamble it but I definitely wouldn't do it without a WD hitch and I would recommend the Blue Ox. As far as the axles if you purchase it with the sticker stating the 4400# axle rating with the reduce weight that can deny changing it out but I would still try. There is a recall to add the taller equalizer which you should do because the axles will bottom out if you hit a dip and you have a load. If you wanted to try to push for the larger axles I would just let them know you have a brochure that states that they come with the 5200# axles.
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:56 AM   #55
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A couple quick notes, I have a Blue Ox, love it. Set up just like my 5k 30' tt and it was a white knuckle drive home in a bit of a storm. After the weather cleared and I adjusted it, tows great now. I highly recommend that hitch set up. I tow with a 2500 ram and Cummins currently.

Also, my axles were hitting the frame completely empty. FR stepped up though. The new equalizers did the trick. Now just waiting to put the new axles on.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:57 PM   #56
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Mjost, the Ecoboost 150 is the exception to the norm. With the right gear and configuration; max tow and max payload, it will carry more on its rear axles than my Ram 2500. I picked the Ram over the Eco due to the lower price... 800 lb/ft TQ was singing a nice tune, as well.
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:01 PM   #57
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I use the Reese dual-cam... once i learned how to adjust it , its fine. It has the 1400# bars.
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Old 08-21-2014, 03:18 PM   #58
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I hate my Dual Cam right now... tired of fighting it.. Just cant seem to get enough tongue weight with my current TT...
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Old 08-21-2014, 03:28 PM   #59
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I would think the 2016 models would have fixed the 2015 problem that caused the recall. It would be a huge liability if they had a recall in a prior year and knowingly used the same faulty parts in subsequent applications.
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:40 PM   #60
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Reese or Draw-tite dual-cam

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjost View Post
I hate my Dual Cam right now... tired of fighting it.. Just cant seem to get enough tongue weight with my current TT...
I hated it... it came with my last trailer and I couldn't get it right on that unit... I wasn't having any better luck on the 29HFS and nearly bought a used Hensley. I am stubborn about this kind of thing, because so many people swear by it, rather than like me, AT it. I have 1400# bars. I don't crank the tongue jack too high before setting the WD load bars. I think you can overdo it. I have 4 links hanging. So, the WD isn't really shifting much weight. After sitting the trailer on, first the back drops about 2 to 2-1/2-inches, when I tighten the bars, the rear (at fender opening top center) are about 1 inch lower than before adding the trailer and the front is up about 1/2 inch... by the way, the truck isn't loaded much.. two people (one is a bit over weight), a full tank of diesel and maybe two bicycles is all we load. Sometimes a small cooler.

What was happening to me was the saddles (the curves in the WD bars) were not adjusted so they seated at true center of the arch, when driving straight... this made the truck hunt left and right, like the road was very rutted, when is wasn't... as one bar would reach its "happy point", it would pull the truck one way... then the other bar tries to show whose boss it pulls the other way, to its "happy point", pulling the truck the other way. This is not fun to drive like this... and plenty good reason to hate something!!

So, I went to a large parking lot. With the bike and most stuff loaded. With the bars like I said, I backed off completely on the nuts on the cam bar... began driving slowly forward while turning slightly left then slightly right then back left until it was as straight as I could guess. Then I tightened the nuts... first the one without the lock nut, pretty much by hand, then the nut with the washer with a large crescent wrench. It is now nearly perfect, almost no perceivable sway unless you hit a major cross wind. This has happened a couple of times and even this is manageable; trucks passing or being passed do not move it around. I went 3000 miles and didn't need to adjust again. I went off last week and it is still rock solid. Of course, there are other adjustments, which affect how it works. The front of the trailer is slightly lower than the back; bars are parallel to the frame when tightened up; and the head of the hitch is tilted slightly back.

So, no more cussing the hitch... it works as designed... FINALLY!
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