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Old 02-03-2013, 09:21 PM   #21
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We have 6-point auto leveler - but if site is more than a bit off level to one side or the other, I will drop a 2x8 under the low side (or two if really bad) and put an extra layer of cribing under the pads. The hit the auto level button after moving the truck out.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:32 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by DAISY BOYKIN View Post
First thing I do is park on level ground!

But if all else fails, I use a 2" X 8" X 3 1/2 ' board, If that fails, I use the plastic leveling blocks as stated above.

The 2" X 8" is mitered (Tapered) on each end for easy roll on.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:14 PM   #23
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I use the "Lego" blocks and carry two sets with caps. However I only use them without wood under them when on concrete pads.

I found that on grass or gravel, they sink into the ground or break.

I carry several 2x10x12 pieces of pressure treated wood to build a base for the "Lego" blocks if I need to lift more than 1.5 inches.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:35 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
I use the "Lego" blocks and carry two sets with caps. However I only use them without wood under them when on concrete pads.

I found that on grass or gravel, they sink into the ground or break.

I carry several 2x10x12 pieces of pressure treated wood to build a base for the "Lego" blocks if I need to lift more than 1.5 inches.
That's probably why I keep breaking mine when they sink into the grass. I was wondering cause they are rated at 30k pounds.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:41 AM   #25
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That's probably why I keep breaking mine when they sink into the grass. I was wondering cause they are rated at 30k pounds.
Yes, but they ARE plastic and can be broken when that weight is on sharp gravel. I also lost a few when it sunk into the soft thawed grass; then froze hard into the ground when we had to leave the next day. The soft dirt had worked its way into the honeycomb structure.

Could not wait till spring to recover them. The 30k is on a hard surface.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:52 AM   #26
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Yes, but they ARE plastic and can be broken when that weight is on sharp gravel. I also lost a few when it sunk into the soft thawed grass; then froze hard into the ground when we had to leave the next day. The soft dirt had worked its way into the honeycomb structure.

Could not wait till spring to recover them. The 30k is on a hard surface.
That's about the same with me, I like them cause they are easy to store. Oh well when I break them all I will buy more.
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:58 AM   #27
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That's about the same with me, I like them cause they are easy to store. Oh well when I break them all I will buy more.
I keep a combination of wood and lego blocks. I did have one time that they sunk in soft ground and were a hassle to retrieve. I'll be more aware and put wood under them when it seems like it might be needed.
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:00 AM   #28
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I keep a combination of wood and lego blocks. I did have one time that they sunk in soft ground and were a hassle to retrieve. I'll be more aware and put wood under them when it seems like it might be needed.
I need to need to buy a 2x10 and cut it
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:55 AM   #29
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Carry 3 2x10's and a couple 1x10's plus my home made blocks for under the stabilizers so I don't have to extend them as far keeping the unit more stable. US border guard in Michigan actually asked me if there was anything in the blocks when he saw them and when I told him what they were for thought it was a good idea.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:01 PM   #30
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I drop the legs.... unhitch and then hit the button that says auto-level!!!
you got that right driver. have fun with the blocks and wood and things. That dog don't hunt.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:02 PM   #31
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have fun with the blocks and wood and things.
i will come over to help get your hydraulic gizmo to go back where it belongs when you want to break camp, but i first have to pick up my wood, blocks and things
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:37 PM   #32
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I hope you don't hurt your back.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:42 PM   #33
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nah, ill bring my electric drill and assorted tools. if i can get a screwdriver or a wrench on it, i can take it apart
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:10 PM   #34
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Not one suggestion of letting the air out of the high side tires?
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:57 PM   #35
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I drop the legs.... unhitch and then hit the button that says auto-level!!!
DITTO!!! Prior to, I would use the interlocking blocks to level. I would actually wiggle around within my site to find the closest to level spot I could find. Steve
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:02 PM   #36
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i use treated wood under the tires unitl i get level side to side. then i drop the landing gear and adjust one so that both touch the pad (also wood) at the same time when locked. i have one foot that has a screwed adjustment on it.
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:51 PM   #37
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This has been a question of mine while we are shopping for a TH. 99% of our camping will be in fields at race tracks (mx and harescrambles). Over the past year at the races with our enclosed cargo, I have paid attention to where I might park such a rig that is even close to level, even arriving early mid friday (race on sunday) it would be tough.

Auto level sounds like the way to go.
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:55 PM   #38
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I no longer use lumber for leveling, for the simple reason that we often burn it late at night when we run out of firewood.
lmfao
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:01 PM   #39
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Side to Side

Before you pull onto your camping spot, if different every time..I carry an 8'-0 2x4 framing stud...lay it on the ground, place a level in the middle, go to the low or high side....raise the low end to get the your 2x4 level...measure the distance on the end you have raised to the ground...build your boards, blocks whatever to the height..pull your 5'er up on it...should be level from side to side..then I attack the front to rear, which is like any other rv...Have used this system on the T/T and now on the Crusader...
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:15 PM   #40
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I drop the legs.... unhitch and then hit the button that says auto-level!!!
Ditto! Big Foot leveling system..
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