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Old 03-06-2014, 09:15 AM   #21
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From what i can tell, when you add the extra 800lbs in the garage of the camper, their is too much weight behind the axles and not enough weight on the toung. any Ideas??
I think that is the problem.

You need to weigh the trailer with the bikes, including calculating the tongue weight (truck with camper without spring bars minus the truck without the camper).

On my camper, adding 40 lbs to the rear takes 15 lbs. off of the tongue . You could be taking 150-200 lbs. off of the tongue while adding 800 lbs. of weight...and that is just with 1 motorcycle. Taking 300-400 lbs off of the tongue while adding 1600 lbs. might get your tongue weight under 10%......no a good scenario.

I would also be concerned about the air bags. Inflating those could result in less weight distribution to the TV front axle. You might want to try setting up the E2 without the air bags inflated, and confirm you weights when you get the combo weighed.

1 other things, I don't think the E2 is as effective as the Equal-i-zer 4 pt.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:19 AM   #22
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Here is how to weigh at CAT scales (copied from another tread:

Ideally, you should do 3 weigh-ins. Most CAT scales just charge $1 or so for reweighs.

Without changing any cargo or passenger seat arrangement, and 1 axle (consider the 2 trailer axles as 1) completely on a different section of scales, plus each truck axle on different sections:

1 weight with the truck and trailer with the spring bars in place.

1 weight with the truck and trailer without the spring bars in place.

1 weight with just the truck without the trailer. Again, leave passengers and cargo just like they were with the previous weigh-ins.

The weight of the 2 truck axles with the trailer hooked up without the spring bars in place minus the weight of the 2 truck axles without the trailer will give you true tongue weight.

The front axle of the truck with the trailer hooked up and spring bars in place should be equal to or very close to the weight of the truck without the trailer.


If you are feeling really brave, and don't mind leaving 1 of your bikes parked for a couple of minutes, unload 1 of those puppies and reweigh to see how that affects the tongue weight.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:24 AM   #23
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This has got me freaked out.
I put a deposit on a 24HFS just one week ago thinking it will be a perfect setup for hauling my 1,500 lb SxS.
With a tongue weight of just under 600 lbs, it looks like I may end up selling the trailer after my maiden trip.
Ugh...
There just isn't enough information out there to determine what will work.
I don't want to be adding bricks to the tongue to make it tow right either.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:34 AM   #24
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Pure speculation here, but using the "dry weights" from the Forest River website, plus some projections of weights after options are added, that trailer may come from the factory with weighing about 6200 lbs with a tongue weight of 1100 lbs. (17.7% tongue weight).

Load up 1600 lbs. of bikes, take away about 400 lbs. of tongue weight, and that is now 7800 lbs. with a 700 lb. tongue weight. (9% tongue weight). 10% seems to be the recognized minimum tongue weight to total trailer weight recommended to weight ratio.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:42 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnGuy View Post
Here is how to weigh at CAT scales (copied from another tread:

Ideally, you should do 3 weigh-ins. Most CAT scales just charge $1 or so for reweighs.

Without changing any cargo or passenger seat arrangement, and 1 axle (consider the 2 trailer axles as 1) completely on a different section of scales, plus each truck axle on different sections:

1 weight with the truck and trailer with the spring bars in place.

1 weight with the truck and trailer without the spring bars in place.

1 weight with just the truck without the trailer. Again, leave passengers and cargo just like they were with the previous weigh-ins.

The weight of the 2 truck axles with the trailer hooked up without the spring bars in place minus the weight of the 2 truck axles without the trailer will give you true tongue weight.

The front axle of the truck with the trailer hooked up and spring bars in place should be equal to or very close to the weight of the truck without the trailer.


If you are feeling really brave, and don't mind leaving 1 of your bikes parked for a couple of minutes, unload 1 of those puppies and reweigh to see how that affects the tongue weight.
Here's a tool that I have written to help once you have the scaled weights:
Actual Weights - Travel Trailer/Bumper Pull Weights from CAT Scales - Towing Planner

Plug in your numbers and it spits out calculations.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:47 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by ibjon View Post
My truck is a 2012 F-150 Max Tow with air bags, I am running the GoodYear Wrangler tires 275/65R18
Is this the tire?
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....eMake=Goodyear

I don't know much about tires, but with the size: P275/65R18, doesn't that mean these are not "light truck" (LT) tires and is what OldCoot is recommending that you change based on his past experience towing with 1/2-ton trucks?


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Originally Posted by ibjon View Post
The truck was cert. scaled at 5980lbs the camper without bikes, just normal camping items that stay in camper was 7200 lbs. ...
From what i can tell, when you add the extra 800lbs in the garage of the camper, their is too much weight behind the axles and not enough weight on the toung. any Ideas??
IMO, without actually weighing the camper with both bikes in the back, you're just guessing. You need numbers to make an informed decision.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ibjon View Post
I Load one bike approx 800lbs run down the road at 70 to 80 mph no problems..
70-80mph? Yowza. Your ST tires on the camper are likely only rated to 65mph.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:35 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
Is this the tire?
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....eMake=Goodyear

I don't know much about tires, but with the size: P275/65R18, doesn't that mean these are not "light truck" (LT) tires and is what OldCoot is recommending that you change based on his past experience towing with 1/2-ton trucks?




IMO, without actually weighing the camper with both bikes in the back, you're just guessing. You need numbers to make an informed decision.


70-80mph? Yowza. Your ST tires on the camper are likely only rated to 65mph.
I think a P tire denotes a "Passenger" tire (P275/65-18) whereas if it is a light truck tire it will start with LT. (LT275/65-18) I know on my 20's, there was an SL and an XL rating rather than a P or LT prefix. I had the SL (standard load) swapped with XL (extra load) before taking delivery and picked up, IIRC, around 300lbs. of weight rating per tire.

+1 on the 70-80. Way too fast pulling a trailer of any kind, IMHO.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:05 AM   #28
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Any P rated tire is not good for towing anything but a 5'x8' lawnmower utility trailer and even that is debatable.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:13 AM   #29
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Any P rated tire is not good for towing anything but a 5'x8' lawnmower utility trailer and even that is debatable.

That's just great. There goes another $1,400 to replace the perfectly good tires on my truck with E rated.

Shame on Ford for saying that their F150 can pull 11,300 lbs and can hold 1,600 in the bed, only to come with crappy tires not designed to do so. At least that seams to be the consensus on here.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:22 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by mphair View Post
Shame on Ford for saying that their F150 can pull 11,300 lbs and can hold 1,600 in the bed, only to come with crappy tires not designed to do so. At least that seams to be the consensus on here.
The 4 P-rated tires that came on my truck can carry the rated axle weights and GVWR. If you check your tire ratings, they should also be able to carry the weight. When I am ready to replace my tires, I will replace with C rated LT tires. But the darn OEM Hankooks just don't want to seem to wear out.
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