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Old 09-23-2014, 12:59 PM   #11
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 29
Bobby, I am right with you on your trying mode! It's all about using the rm for living space also. So I will need to be able to set it up for easy change over.

Donnie Burnett

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Old 09-25-2014, 06:09 AM   #12
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,183
I use the Condor Pit-Stop and stop side to side with straps to factory floor points; up front in the bay. I have a roll around island cabinet that is pretty heavy; I strap it down by running a ratchet strap over its top, again to factory floor tie-downs; and it doesn't move.

If the walls of your TH are similar to mine, the so called aluminum frame material, is a little more than twice a beer can thick. Consider you have essentially approximately 1-inch of Styrofoam sandwiched between 1/4" plywood and very thin fiberglass skin. To get any strength from the wall you would have drill the wall and bolt through it, with a plate on the outside, something no one should consider. I am sure any wall related issues would not be covered by warranty, when FR sees what was done.

If I felt the need to hold things to the wall (like a ladder, etc.), I would build a rack and would bolt into or strap to the floor, with it mounted close to the wall.

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Old 09-25-2014, 06:57 AM   #13
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 76
I agree, I have used Aluminum studs in a house before and regretted it every minute. Screws pull out and steel screws in a aluminum stud always corrode, you can't stop it. I have never had issues tying my motorcycles down with tie downs of this type.

There is always the myth that you need to tie down so hard that there is no movement. The problem then arises that the motorcycles natural dampening from its suspension can't work because you tied it down too tight and won't let it move somewhat. The result is damaged shocks and bent pieces from harsh bumps not able to be absorbed by the shocks.

You certainly don't want so much movement that you hit something either, or don't want them to loosen up and move. I added a wheel chock and tie down minimally. I check the tie downs regularly though. It all depends on what you have in there and how much clearance you have. I would put any d-ring tracks on the floor, not on this wall or any other trailer that I have ever had (not enough structure for that). After 20 years pulling 2 to 8 motorcycles down to Daytona bike week you learn to buy the best straps money can buy and let the bike bounce a little. Cheep staps fret and break, even when they are brand new. Auto part stores sell a great strap (orange) that clips back on itself. Seems to work most often. I throw them away at the first sign of wear.

Good luck and you'll find the right balance. There could be a few more d-rings on the floor though, so have at it.
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:55 AM   #14
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: SC
Posts: 237
When I need to mount stuff on the walls, such as ladders, I take a piece of wood and liquid nail it to the wall and then use screws to mount with. I try to use a screw just long enough to go through my wood and the wallboard.

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Old 09-28-2014, 04:22 AM   #15
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 47
Have you all ever used the airline track? I think it is it all over the bed of my Chevy...similar to the E-trak but, I think easier to use & more secure.....right out of jets! reasonable price too! I think is the site.

ps.....I guess you should attach them on the floor........I say just from reading the others' replies.!!...Lol...

Really great stuff.
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:45 PM   #16
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 15
I'm not sure if anyone has ever looked at the pitbull strapless trailer restraints but I would strongly encourage you too. I have used then for a few years in my race trailer and will be mounting them in my 345v14 soon. I have one for both my street bike and my dirtbike. They are expensive but quality workmanship all the way through.

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