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Old 01-20-2016, 09:53 AM   #11
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Ducting both sides would be an option, but since it was heating just fine without ducting the intake side I chose not to. I can only assume that the cold water line froze where it entered the underbelly from the passthrough cargo area. It was the furthest from the heat being fed into the underbelly under the kitchen and I had cold water in the front bathroom which is before the lines enter the underbelly.
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Old 01-20-2016, 10:13 AM   #12
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I read on the forum about a trick to keep water flowing that works well when not on full hookups. The guy uses a hose from the outside shower back to the fresh water tank. He opens the valve (he opened just the hot) to just a trickle. Did you let water trickle from a faucet, Mark?

Also, I would add this (attached) to at least the cold lines before insulating, or instead of insulating. I wish I had. I didn't realize how inexpensive it is and what little current they draw... 7 watts per foot, total 210w... that's less than 2 amps at 110vac.

30 ft. Automatic Electric Heat Cable Kit-HC30A - The Home Depot
WW
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Old 01-20-2016, 10:22 AM   #13
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Just add this critter. I use it to control a heat lamp. It is rated at 5A, 600 watts. It is only about 5 inch square.

But then in west GA we get down below freezing only for short periods of time.
Car washed last sunday, then down to 30 that night.

From homedepot SKU 197598 $22.00

Ductstat Plug-In Thermostat Temperature Sensitive Switch
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Old 01-20-2016, 10:38 AM   #14
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I did not trickle the water as my goal is to prevent the lines from freezing without trickling the water.

I will make note of heat tape and controller, though I wondering if they are safe to use with PEX or not. Will have to do more research when I get around to overhauling the water line cold weather protection.
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Old 01-20-2016, 10:43 AM   #15
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Just an alternate option ... 3 of my SOB's had a 2" flex duct straight off the furnace that simply dropped down into the belly. It was the same 30,000 BTU furnace that's in my Silverback. It worked down to @ 18F - 20F. We used ceramic heaters inside the fiver with the furnace working as well.
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Old 01-20-2016, 11:41 AM   #16
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My mods have been to supplement the heated underbelly which proved to be insufficient to prevent lines from freezing in single digit temps.
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Old 01-20-2016, 11:58 AM   #17
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Sorry ... assumed you had heat pads on your tanks only. Using any RV in single digit temps is a tough row to hoe.
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoglou View Post
Just add this critter. I use it to control a heat lamp. It is rated at 5A, 600 watts. It is only about 5 inch square.

But then in west GA we get down below freezing only for short periods of time.
Car washed last sunday, then down to 30 that night.

From homedepot SKU 197598 $22.00

Ductstat Plug-In Thermostat Temperature Sensitive Switch
Thats a nice product H, thanks for sharing. That would be the ticket for a light in my pump house... wouldn't have to turn and off as needed in the winter.
WW
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:10 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselguy View Post
Sorry ... assumed you had heat pads on your tanks only. Using any RV in single digit temps is a tough row to hoe.
Honestly, I was told by the dealer that the heater was ducted into the underbelly, but I have yet to open up the underbelly enough to verify. I have heard some manufacturers market "heated underbelly" referring to radiant heat from the ducts that feed the living space. Not sure if that is the case for the XLR or not. It's been too cold to dig into it further.
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Old 01-24-2016, 03:39 AM   #20
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Mark, My old indian trick of letting the hot water recirculate back to the fresh water tank works quite well. but, if you are on city supply water, its obviously not going to work for you. you'd have to let a tap drip and theirs a 99% chance you will freeze up the sewer pipe

This is my first season using the fresh water tank as my water source, and more out of peace of mind than anything i let it recirculate a bit of hot water to the fresh water tank (FML isnt the words if i had 150gal tank freeze up!). I do skirt my trailer, but then again i probably see alot worse weather than you! Last winter i was hooked to city water, and with the skirting and a little 600w heater under the trailer i had running water no problem at -38c with a -52 windchill. The only issue i had earlier on in the season was my heated hose to the trailer would freeze up in high winds, easily rectified with $5 worth of foam pipe insulation
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