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Old 07-01-2014, 06:31 AM   #21
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I called the service manager at dealer and he said additional bracing is not needed. I also chose the Brisk 2 which is about 20 lbs lighter (74 lbs). I ran surface wiremold for the wiring.
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:57 PM   #22
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[QUOTE=OutlawAdventurer;647045].....right now in process of designing mounts for mounting two of the aluminum drawer sliding boxes underneath and add a little extra storage..... added a LG sound bar with wireless subwoofer.... havent finished yet, but in process of building dividers and organizing the under bed and seat storage areas... not much of add on, but I use two padded jack stands (had two with flat notch, bought some thick rubber and glued to the top..... to level back door and use as a deck......
wall hangers in garage for hiking poles, metal detector and motorcycle items and fishing poles.

I am so glad I decided to add alot of things including some of the cold weather package underneath that we have done......way cheaper and just as effective.] END QUOTE

Outlaw, tell me about the aluminum sliding storage underneath. Is that under the trailer? The LG sound bar (I looked at one in Walmart) where (or how) did you mount the bar? I thought about a simple amp to two ceiling speakers, but your way has to be easier. Tell me more about adding cold weather package yourself? Thanks, Wolf. All of us like pictures... hint, hint.
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Old 07-01-2014, 05:05 PM   #23
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The box is still a work in progress, I am planning on putting where the rear fuel tank would have been, I didnt get the tank, but the carry is right there in front of spare, I was planning on cutting the lip off sliding in and making a mount to bring out to edge, I have been looking at the low profile job type boxes and some of the shallow low profile aluminum boxes...

Right behind the rear tires and axle is enough room with the frames to mount to...this is another location we are looking at...one could use the tank frame work to mount off of also...

then brother in law said he could build one to dimesions, so we were thinking about up front in front of steps, by just putting a drop down hanger in couple of spots(the gas line runs below the frame part, they should have tucked it up inside frame)....we have to finish measuring and getting everything laid out...he is good at welding aluminum and the roller tracks for drawers aren't that expensive...we have been crawling around underneath and looking at different ideas for a while now....
there is actually room for several different ideas.....even one of the small square steel boxes with locking t-handle like you can get at tractor supply will work...most of what I am planning on storing in the underneath area is light weight stuff......

the one thing I have gathered crawling around there is 1. watch for weight, 2. the drop down area(dont want to get too low and 3 - the hangers will need to be placed right for support balance ..

I work 28 days on/28 off and just got home so that is still in work....

Sorry, Kinda of long winded but that is where we are on that, we are gear heads and always building or modifying things, nothing trashy, I am kind of anal about the stuff looking professional, so I plan alot and then build it, install it....

on thing I saw a friend of mine has done is use PVC and made rod holders under his.....kind of like the pro bass fisherman do on their trucks.....pretty neat and looks like it came that way...it is one large tube and holds 6 rods inside....with individual tubes in it....

The box on tongue (if these pics load) would have been better if I would have gotten a wider one and just put battery in it, drilled route holes for cables with rubber gromets, probably will do that later on...hind sight is 20/20 as they say........was in a hurry before trip and wasn't thinking...

Here is pic of sound bar and with the articulating arm it doesnt interfere with the TV, It was high enough even when we had tv mounted straight to wall....it comes with a sub woofer that is wireless, we have it back by bed....I will say this, that sound bar will blast.....my wife wants to get another and put in garage area with another tv...sometimes we let our, moved out children come hang with us...lol...lol..........

hope this helps....
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:59 PM   #24
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I moved and changed the tank valves, black and one gray. The original black valve handle required practically crawling under the trailer. I replaced it with a cable operated Valterra 3" blade valve. I moved the front gray valve closer to the dump tube... it was under the slide, when out, it would require crawling, slide in it was such a problem. I took a pic and made some notes on it, hope it comes through. No more hands and knees... other than today :-)
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:02 PM   #25
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Thats good idea, I am tired of crawling underneath to reach ours.
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:44 PM   #26
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Entertainment Center

Made some changes to the entertainment center. I removed the center panel and door on the right. added a little compartment with door to hide tv wires and RF modulator for satellite receiver. Added a shelf for receiver and two shelves inside left cupboard. Also added two electric outlets, coax outlet and wall plate for hdmi cable.
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:46 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motts461 View Post
Made some changes to the entertainment center. I removed the center panel and door on the right. added a little compartment with door to hide tv wires and RF modulator for satellite receiver. Added a shelf for receiver and two shelves inside left cupboard. Also added two electric outlets, coax outlet and wall plate for hdmi cable.
Nice work, motts!
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Old 08-01-2014, 04:07 PM   #28
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I stopped in at the dealer to check mine out. Rear loading lights blow the 15 amp fuse along with few other things I wanted checked/ fixed.

They have her in pieces, wire is shorted somewhere along the way from the switch to the lights. With lights removed they still blow the fuse.
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Old 08-02-2014, 07:18 AM   #29
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Seeing the workmanship on trailers, it surprises me this kind of thing doesn't happen more often. The wire is either pinched to ground / frame or a screw got shot into it (also grounded). If it were me I would completely remove the lights... maybe one of them has it grounded. More than likely it would be quicker to run new wire. I want to replace those lights with nice LEDs... 50W for $15 and 100W for $40 seems very reasonable and the housings look great. One of the posters on FRF (the.wilsons) gave me the link...

LEDwholesalers.com

... he has installed LED strip lights to back light the top of the slide out, looks very cool. I like the strip that has the adjustable gradient level, rather than all the bright colors. He plans adding LED lights to light up the steps and have them motion activated. That sounds pretty cool to me.
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:50 AM   #30
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OutlawAdventurer...Do you mind telling me where you got the box for the tongue? Are you able to lock it? Thanks
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