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Old 09-20-2016, 06:46 PM   #641
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Originally Posted by Play Harder View Post
Rockfordroo

Are u knocking my 1/2ton Chevy pulling a 1/2 ton towable 29hfs HyperLight - that's what the HyperLight was designed for correct to be 1/2 ton towable 😜😜😜😜😜😜

Attachment 120752

Only 337,967 miles on my 1/2 ton quadrasteer so far ---- someday it will be a diesel- but for going for 400,000 miles 😎


Get out and Play Harder😛

2016 XLR Hyper Lite 29hsf - loaded picked up 3-24-2015😊
2002 Chevy 1/2 ton Quadrasteer
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Kite Boarding is my Addiction - GOT WIND!
You won't be able to drive a non-quadrasteer truck... you'll have to go back to Driver's Ed class.

Half Ton's Rule!!! As does half-ton towable 29HFS XLR Hardly-Lite owners ... be like ... got wind!
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:15 PM   #642
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Originally Posted by Kilday4 View Post
Attachment 118568Attachment 118569Attachment 118570Attachment 118571

Th only issued I've had was with the LED strip lights under the awning mounted in the track of the awning fabric. The plastic track that holds the lights has warped for whatever reason and in my opinion were to bright anyway. The location of them draws the bugs to the door also.

I purchased a 15' strip with a self adhesive backing from the internet and shipped to my house for $12. The rest of the materials I found in my trusty shop that the wife accuses of being full of junk.
These are not as bright and I moved the location out to the awning tube which should help the bug issues at the door. The only downside is they have to be plugged/unplugged at the tube after deployment and before retraction.


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Hey K, Well my RGB strip has failed.... original white went bad just over a year old. I have ordered warm white with dimmer and would like to mount it to the roller tube like you did. I'm trying to visualize what parts I will need to be able to plug / unplug.

First, did the lights stick okay?
Do you have to secure the plug on the arm while traveling?
Are those battery charger type plugs?
Does your's have a remote / dimmer?

I am under the impression our very high FL humidity is killing them. But a quick search on the net shows that they do not hold up.

What about buying some kind of clear plastic hose / tube to slip the lights into (seal the ends); so I can completely remove for storage when not camping?

I cut off the warped / curvy wire moulding / track thingy at the awning.
WW
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:11 PM   #643
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Originally Posted by WolfWhistle View Post
Hey Z. I appreciate the kind words, but I have learned a lot and have gotten many ideas from other members.

If you are drilling inside the aluminum frame ... into the rubber mat area ... this is what you will find, which drills like a hot knife through butter ... 1) appx 1/16" thick fiberglass, 2) appx 3/16" plywood, 3) 1-1/4" Styrofoam, 4) rubber mat ... all "bonded" together, or so it was when new, but it doesn't stay bonded and is weak.

Per Bulletbob, with the party deck option, there is a thin layer of metal beneath the rubber mat so pointed legs don't dent it.

I wonder how strong the hinge attachment will be? I would probably add a metal plate between the hinges and rubber mat and large washers on the outside ... it would be easy to over torque and compress the foam, so use blue loctite snug up but not compress too much.

I think 3M 5200 is ideal to keep water out... I used Geocel Proflex that I had on hand.

The aluminum edge would be stronger but use care (if you do) and hit the hollow found there that runs lengthwise. If you are drilling the edge let me know and I can measure mine to tell you how far from the ramp edge the hollow channel is on my ramp.
WW
WW,
Thx for the reply. Have to admit, your answer is a two-edged sword. Nice to know you can drill thru the door relatively easily. On the other hand with nothing but fiberglass, plywood, Styrofoam, and rubber mat (bonded or not), it's no wonder these doors fail as often as they do. I'm on my second door now and I have read several posts about 1000-pound Harleys causing failure of the door. That's what happened to my first door. Bonded Styrofoam and plywood hardly seems a match for 1000 lbs on 2 wheels. I guess I was hoping for some kind of structural steel or aluminum beams running thru the door to add strength and rigidity. Normally, I would feel safe that the engineering analysis was adequate in the design of the door, but Lippert has shown quite clearly they didn't do enough analysis. Not every toy hauler carries dirt bikes, canoes, and golf carts. I'm looking to upgrade to a Tri-Glide soon, but I am really questioning the ability of the ramp door to handle the increased load.

I share your concern about strength of the hinge attachment. I had already planned to use fender washers on the exterior side of the connection and the hinges themselves are large 8 or 10 inch strap hinges that should act as a large metal plate on the interior side of the connection.

My plan calls to raise the bottom of the ramp about 12" and flipping the hinged plywood out to extend the ramp another 4 feet. I'm raising the ramp 12" with either scissor style stabilizers or Atwood fold out stabilizer legs at 4 points. I have real concerns about the strength of the door when it is supported at only 4 points along the bottom edge and is bearing the weight more as a horizontal surface than as an inclined surface when the ramp is allowed to touch the ground. Unfortunately, it's all necessary to keep the Harley from bottoming out on the threshold between the ramp and garage floor. Heretofore, I've used a combination of raising the tongue and lifting the ramp a few inches with blocks of wood, but that is getting old quickly.

Sure wish Forest River had thought thru and designed the ramp geometry a bit better. And I REALLY wish I had investigated the ramp geometry a lot more before going with this toy hauler. But alas, I need to figure out how to make it all work, lest I am left with a toy hauler that I can't put my toy into.
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:30 AM   #644
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Hey Z, replying to 643. My Thunderbird is a bit lighter but nearly as low as your HD, so it would normally drag. The quick and easy way to reduce the floor approach angle is simply to raise the tongue of the trailer when loading / unloading. I bring up the rear stabilizers and raise the front. After loading, lower down to where the front stabs touch then lower the rear stabs. It is a bit of a pain, but works well enough for me. I add enough dunnage at the tongue jack to allow a very high lift.

I actually built 4' long ramp extension for my first toyhauler. I had to raise the edge of the ramp more than a foot to make it work... this is entirely dependent on how level the site is. I built mine out of 1' sections of diamond tread and used strap hinges. But the Greywolf ramp was stronger.

I drew / proposed building a type of fixture that could be temporarily placed on the the ramp itself (possibly pinned in place), which effectively reduces the angle and would in effect, reinforce the ramp. The idea is that the size and height of the "fixture" is such that when the lowest point of the bike crossing the threshold of the floor, the rear wheel is at the highest point on the fixture. It cannot be too high that when the lowest point of the bike passes the highest point on the fixture it drags. At only 6" tall it does more than 12" will do at the ramp edge, in reducing the angle... according to my best guess.

Take a look and see if it could be made to work. I proposed building it out of plywood to reduce weight and covering the top and bottom with something non-slip like a thin rubber mat.
WW
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:04 PM   #645
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WW,
Very interesting engineering solution with your "fixture." I'm need to look closer at that idea. It has possibilities.

I've been lifting the tongue jack and using dunnage on the rear ramp to raise it about 8" and using a small extension ramp, but when I do that, I have to unhitch the TH and disconnect the WDH. That means, putting down the stabilizers, as you said, and having to haul out all the dunnage and then reversing the whole operation once the Harley is out. I was hoping to get a solution that would allow me to unload the Harley with the TH still hitched to the TV and therefore eliminate the need for dunnage and using the front and rear stabilizers on the TH. Just seems like a very inefficient process for loading and unloading...but, it may be the only way if the ramp door can't take the weight of the Harley when in a more horizontal position.
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:10 AM   #646
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Installed a 13.5 second ac in garage. Big thanks to WW. I bugged him a few times on his thoughts on adding one. Always has good advice. Added a breaker panel and an extra plug. Ours is used for motocross so nothing real fancy needed on install. But what a difference at a track with no shade and 95 degrees. The back is a freezer so I use a small fan to push some of that up front and it is awesome. Unit is really nice. 3 speed fan and set the temp where u want it. I keep it in the middle so it's not even running all the time and does great. Not that loud either. My front is a 15k. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-22-2016, 10:24 AM   #647
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MX411, Excellent work, very professional. The portable I added, has pros and cons. The biggest pros were the lower price, that it has dehumidify and a remote; as well as, its dual use at home; the biggest con is that its in the way; although I can remove the duct and store next to the wall; strapped down for travel. It worked extremely well at our recent Florida FROG event at Williston Crossing. Doing it over I would probably go with the roof unit ... which BTW I wired, just in case I run out of mods to do.
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:37 AM   #648
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Originally Posted by ZNR XLR View Post
WW,
... I have to unhitch the TH and disconnect the WDH. That means, putting down the stabilizers, as you said, and having to haul out all the dunnage and then reversing the whole operation once the Harley is out ....

The few times I have had to unload / load while hooked up, I was able to find level ground or raise the tongue a little. Having to unhook would be a royal pain.

With the Trumps suspension all the way up (highest setting) and my butt off the seat, and the tongue raised moderately, mine will clear.

The only downside of the fixture, that I can think of, is that when your front tire are rolling up the "fixture" it will be hard to touch. I'm short; maybe your not.

I wonder if heavy duty piano hinge attached to the aluminum "frame" at the top edge (closed) that will give you good support and strength? Buku screws into something that will actually hold. Like you stated, the ramp bottom edge will need support at all four rubber bumpers.

Ebay is the way IMHO to find HD hinges. A quick search shows:

1 Polished Steel 54 1 4" x 1 1 2"in Heavy Duty Boat Piano Hinge Seat Edge | eBay

Sea Ray Heavy Duty Aluminum 12 x 3 in Open Boat 14 Gage Piano Hinge | eBay
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Old 09-23-2016, 07:44 AM   #649
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Thanks WW. I tried an 8k portable unit my dad had laying around. It worked ok but packing is tight and its nice to have this out of the way. Once again thanks for all the replies and advice!

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Originally Posted by WolfWhistle View Post
MX411, Excellent work, very professional. The portable I added, has pros and cons. The biggest pros were the lower price, that it has dehumidify and a remote; as well as, its dual use at home; the biggest con is that its in the way; although I can remove the duct and store next to the wall; strapped down for travel. It worked extremely well at our recent Florida FROG event at Williston Crossing. Doing it over I would probably go with the roof unit ... which BTW I wired, just in case I run out of mods to do.
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Old 09-23-2016, 03:28 PM   #650
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Hey K, Well my RGB strip has failed.... original white went bad just over a year old. I have ordered warm white with dimmer and would like to mount it to the roller tube like you did. I'm trying to visualize what parts I will need to be able to plug / unplug.

First, did the lights stick okay?
Do you have to secure the plug on the arm while traveling?
Are those battery charger type plugs?
Does your's have a remote / dimmer?

I am under the impression our very high FL humidity is killing them. But a quick search on the net shows that they do not hold up.

What about buying some kind of clear plastic hose / tube to slip the lights into (seal the ends); so I can completely remove for storage when not camping?

I cut off the warped / curvy wire moulding / track thingy at the awning.
WW
WW,
I cleaned the awning tube with an automotive adhesive remover used for removing decals and the glue. This product also leaves no residue behind. I would think a contact cleaner would work as well. I applied the light strip and then rolled up the awning to utilize the vinyl pressure against the the tube to help facilitate the attachment. In the meantime I ran the wiring and soldered and shrink wrapped the plug ends. You are correct about the plug ends being of the battery type. I have no dimmer or remote for strip used. I cut and tied the wiring in to the original lights at the awning arm to utilize the factory on/off switch and ran the wiring next to the power supply for the awning motor in the arm. I did wrap the plug end of the light strip with a piece of duct tape to help support the weight of the plug. The plug pigtail is only 4" long so I haven't had to secure it really. Maybe for long trips it might be a good idea so it's not flapping in the wind against the vinyl material. I'll be interested to see how your project turns out.

I really wanted to figure out a way to eliminate the plug at the tube. Maybe this winter I'll research that. Good luck
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