What did you do to your Hyperlite XLR today?

[RVBikers]

anyone open up the area above the fridge? we have a 27 HFS but they are all pretty similar, I am thinking there is some usable area in front of the vents. I'd like to open that up for bread, rolls, paper towels and such and just put a net over the front to keep the stuff in place while traveling.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by RVBikers

anyone open up the area above the fridge? we have a 27 HFS but they are all pretty similar, I am thinking there is some usable area in front of the vents. I'd like to open that up for bread, rolls, paper towels and such and just put a net over the front to keep the stuff in place while traveling.

I think you could IF you move the front panel back and put a bottom in it BUT, you have to maintain the area that vents the frig either out the back or thru the roof.

[egladden]

What type of stain did you use it looks like it matches well?


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[WolfWhistle]

Originally Posted by egladden

What type of stain did you use it looks like it matches well?
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

I found that on light wood, such as a clear pine or birch, Miniwax English Chestnut (233) is vert close and by adding dark walnut (2716) AFTER the Chestnut you can push it more towards brown. I am still using some old cherry, so that didn't match all that well. I tried the dark walnut only to the cherry and it came out OK. These are oil base stains. I topped it with 2 coats of satin clear.

[egladden]

Looks pretty close from the picture to me.

[WolfWhistle]

Thanks E, Chestnut is 233, but the other is Special Walnut 224.

[WolfWhistle]

RVB, I've eyed it once or twice but at this stage I don't need the storage space. Let us know if you cut into it.

[RVBikers]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

RVB, I've eyed it once or twice but at this stage I don't need the storage space. Let us know if you cut into it.

Will do, Wolf.
And wish you lived up here, I'd pay you to mod out our cabinets, add the silverware drawer, and maybe a couple other things. my carpentry skills are pretty much non-existant.

[WolfWhistle]

Added the Fabulous Operating Products SAM-1 range hood upgrade. It is everything they say and more. On low speed (3 speed) it draws more air to the outside than the old hood and you can barely hear it. The LED light is a major improvement, as well. It is made in the USA by a small company. I saw it in Trailer Life. I'm going to post it to a generic forum, in case others are interested.

If installed on a Ventline hood, it is easy and the instructions are for this brand. However, on the Heng it isn't easy; some metal work involved. For the faint of heart, it might be better to buy the Ventline then upgrade.

One issue I had that had nothing to do with the product was that FR cut the hole in the wall too big by over and inch, making the new improved screened outside vent (comes in black or white) to be installed without bottom screws.

[JohnRiordan]

WW and Dave nice Mods. WW when you put your outlet in under pantry did you tap in to the main power coming in right there and put a seperate breaker in. Just curious how you wired it, because I was thinking about doing same thing.

Thanks
John

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

Added the Fabulous Operating Products SAM-1 range hood upgrade. It is everything they say and more. On low speed (3 speed) it draws more air to the outside than the old hood and you can barely hear it. The LED light is a major improvement, as well. It is made in the USA by a small company. I saw it in Trailer Life. I'm going to post it to a generic forum, in case others are interested.

If installed on a Ventline hood, it is easy and the instructions are for this brand. However, on the Heng it isn't easy; some metal work involved. For the faint of heart, it might be better to buy the Ventline then upgrade.

One issue I had that had nothing to do with the product was that FR cut the hole in the wall too big by over and inch, making the new improved screened outside vent (comes in black or white) to be installed without bottom screws.

Don't have a Hyperlite XLR, but I can vouch for the Heng hood taking some metal work. You have to drill out the spot welds to remove. Didn't put the new outside vent in, just removed the @#$$^&* factory door. It is a major improvement in all ways advertised.

[WolfWhistle]

Originally Posted by JohnRiordan

WW and Dave nice Mods. WW when you put your outlet in under pantry did you tap in to the main power coming in right there and put a seperate breaker in. Just curious how you wired it, because I was thinking about doing same thing.

Thanks
John

I did, cut into the main power feed to the fuse panel. There was a little slack, so I put a male on one end and female on the other, so I could plug the two together and bypass the new outlet if I ever need to. I then wired the outlet with a male and a female plug AND added a 15A breaker to protect the new outlet; you have to at least fuse it for safety, if not, the only protection for the outlet is the 30A at the pedestal... not good!

If I ever need to more that 30A (which is now!), but definitely if I add a second AC, I would install a breaker panel in that space; feed with #10AWG from a new 50A exterior RV connection (these aint cheap - not to mention 50A cords); then add a 30A breaker to feed the factory fuse panel, a 15A to the outlet in question and a 15A to the new AC.

[WolfWhistle]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Don't have a Hyperlite XLR, but I can vouch for the Heng hood taking some metal work. You have to drill out the spot welds to remove. Didn't put the new outside vent in, just removed the @#$$^&* factory door. It is a major improvement in all ways advertised.

OC, mine had tiny spots, maybe 10 or so. Not bad, though.

Anyone wanting to remove the factory door like OC did (if like mine) you could do it gracefully by cutting around it to break the silicone seal if it has one, remove the cover by pulling both sides out 1/4" at the same time then slide up and away. Then pop the door off and reverse the process to install the original cover. Or you could grab it with pliers and pull until you break the molded on hinge pins at the top. Mine was going to blow off eventually, because I could never snap the cover closed anyway.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

OC, mine had tiny spots, maybe 10 or so. Not bad, though.

Anyone wanting to remove the factory door like OC did (if like mine) you could do it gracefully by cutting around it to break the silicone seal if it has one, remove the cover by pulling both sides out 1/4" at the same time then slide up and away. Then pop the door off and reverse the process to install the original cover. Or you could grab it with pliers and pull until you break the molded on hinge pins at the top. Mine was going to blow off eventually, because I could never snap the cover closed anyway.

Mine had 18 spots and I just grabbed the @#$*#$ door and pulled it off and walked by the big blue container and dropped it in.
Do like the update, but will take time to get familiar with the light, fan & damper controls with having to turn the original switches to activate, but it is a very nice update.

[WolfWhistle]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Mine had 18 spots and I just grabbed the @#$*#$ door and pulled it off and walked by the big blue container and dropped it in.

When I stripped the Heng down to nothing, I was thinking, heck I could just as well built a new hood and saved the original. They are very very cheap. With a shear and brake a 10 year old could do it. But its hard to find a 10 year old when you need one.

[Taranwanderer]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

When I stripped the Heng down to nothing, I was thinking, heck I could just as well built a new hood and saved the original. They are very very cheap. With a shear and brake a 10 year old could do it. But its hard to find a 10 year old when you need one.

Especially one trained to use a metal brake, as well as one with a good work ethic. It's hard to get good 10 year old laborers, they all want the corner office right off the bat...

[WolfWhistle]

Magnetic door stop. Door stays put. Added range top cover with spatter guards SS to tie in with new convection oven.
Can't add a photo when editing

[WolfWhistle]

Photos associated with previous post. Oh, I will provably use a cutting board over the cover. The cover part # DVC2-SLR 56459 is for the Atwood 2 burner vision; in this he-ah XLR 29hfs. Difficulty one star also. Notice how nice the new FOP vent lights it up.

[Play Harder]

I like - ok where do I buy them - stove cover and door stops


Get out and Play Harder😛

2016 XLR Hyper Lite 29hsf - loaded picked up 3-24-2015😊
2008 Can Am Spyder
Kite Boarding is my Addiction - GOT WIND!

[stevejd235]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

Magnetic door stop. Door stays put. Added range top cover with spatter guards SS to tie in with new convection oven.
Can't add a photo when editing

WW,
The sharing of your updates (and the detailed pictures...) are a key reason I ordered my 29HFS. Just wanted to say THANK YOU for helping out others via your experiences and knowledge. I can't wait to have my TH arrive at the end of the month so I can start adding on things... And of course sharing my updates (and pictures...) with everyone.

Have a great camping season...