What did you do to your Hyperlite XLR today?

[Kilday4]

Finished the silverware drawer last week. Stain is not an exact match but close enough for me.


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[breezyhillfarm]

Nicely done.

[WolfWhistle]

Handy!

[bowtie_guy]

Brought mine back to the dealer after my first weekend use of the year.

End of last year the front jack gear box broke or bound up, it was said to be fixed but I looked like a loser in the park trying to set the trailer up for a nice family weekend. Aside from unhooking and hooking up the weekend was nice. Not my first trailer and never had an issue before so pretty sure just an issue with some part that I pray will be repaired this time.

Also found the black tank flush not working, first time I tried it. Quick search shows there was a run of bad check valves so hopefully that will be a quick fix.

Plastic fender skirts should be getting changed too, warranty approved the change just needed parts.

Really hope after this visit all the bugs are worked out and it's clear sailing forward.

[Taranwanderer]

Finally got around to removing my winterizing panel (again, for like the 5th time since November) and converting it from the 4 screws that hold it in to hinges and catches. Now I don't have to pull out the tools to get to my bypass valves and anti-freeze tube. You can see the holes in the surrounding wood where the screws were holding it in place--fortunately, that's covered when the grate is closed. Now I just need to come up with a way to cover the holes on the outside of the grate where the screw heads used to sit.

[WolfWhistle]

Bought 1/8# (hole) 3/4" washers and lath screws (8x1-1/4) painted black and replaced factory screws on fenders; to hopefully prevent future cracking. XLR should, at least, go to the larger head lath screws... Heads need to be black, if course. Then, tighten carefully. Note: mine was not cracked.

[OldCoot]

WW, I hope you put alum spacer washers behind the fender.

[WolfWhistle]

You mean washers between trailer skin and back of fender? Or, bushes through the fender holes? I suspect the cause of cracking others have experience, is because holes larger than the screws were not drilled ; those SDST screws drill a hole too small and cause pressure trying to and actually splitting from the hole to the edge. Not predrilling too close to the edge causes many materials to split. I also drilled the holes slightly larger just through the fender, but not through the trailer wall... the fenders are still sealed to the skin.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

You mean washers between trailer skin and back of fender? Or, bushes through the fender holes? I am only trying to reduce the high pressure of small headed screws exert and that could damage the plastic. Is that not what is happening?

Washers behind the fender and the trailer skin so you can't put undue stress on the plastic fender.

[WolfWhistle]

No I didn't, only washer outside so pressure is lower. I also drilled the fender holes slightly larger with care not to drill into the skin.

[InTheSticks]

OC your suggesting putting washers behind the fender and WW is putting an outboard washer and larger hole in the fender...doing both should eliminate these from cracking, OC's idea is to eliminate undo inward force on the non flat surface (ie Fender), WW is to eliminate the hole diameter and cracking caused by unequal outward (from the hole) pressure.
Great idea's...yes mine is cracked and you can tell they appear to be over tightened as they bow in at the screw openings. I am thinking of using both your ideas to keep this from happening again.
Thanks Guys!

[dave961]

Whenever I want to drain the fresh water tank or the water system itself, I have to get down on my knees, reach under the camper, take the caps off (trying not to lose them or drop in the dirt), wait till it drains, then screw them back on. So today, I replaced all 3 caps with screw on valves.

[laurajean]

Nice job.

[stevejd235]

It's been awhile since I have been able to post. Just too busy with work and family events (non-camping... ) but I wanted to make sure I shared some of the mod's have been able do in the past month. These are not in any order that they were done or importance and have been done by many others. Just wanted to share pictures with the group...

[stevejd235]

Not sure why some are sideways but here are some more...

[stevejd235]

I do have the Northern Tool conduit covers on order so I can make the Stinky Slinky storage tub under the trailer. Also, just purchased a folding ladder that will be modifying the gas tank brackets to hold the ladder. Other mods still on the list are - shutoff valves for the three water lines, mounting TV with swing arm (have the mount, just need to find the TV), silverware drawer, doors for under the bed storage area, furnace vent correction, outside LED light dimmer switch and I'm sure a few that I forgot to remember.

Can't wait for a few more local trips before heading out to Sturgis...

[bowtie_guy]

Today i unhooked it for a couple days stay at Restoule Provincial Park in Ontario.
(just cell phone picture)

[klarowe]

Had a local shop drop the belly pan to do some small stuff and check on some warranty items. Found the reason my black tank flush didn't work.. the elbow coming out of the tank was facing forward, which made the hose have to make a tight u-turn. Hoses don't usually make great u-turns so it had a nice heavy kink in it. Since it was already apart, I just had a tornado flush that I had already bought installed. Then we took a look at my gray water tank that's supposed to have a 57 gallon capacity only to find out that the tank is only stamped 31 gallons... So I have bulletbob looking into the tank for me and I have to see if I can submit my bill for reimbursement. Not sure if they will honor a non FR certified repair shop though...

While it was down, I also installed a cable line with 2 outdoor connections in the skirting. This way I can connect the 'utilities' side when I connect everything and I'll have an easy connection for the TV on the other side. No more having to toss a line underneath. I was hoping to find some cable connections under there that I could tee into so I only had to make 1 connection on the utility side, but no such luck.

Also cleaned up all of the wiring and tubing the best I could without disconnecting anything. As others have found, everything was just hanging down and looked like crap. Really lucky we dropped it because the main brake wire was pinched between 2 pieces of metal in the frame and was starting to get cut (luckily it was only through the outside insulation, and not into any of the wires). One good axle droop and we would have lost the brakes... Fun stuff.

[WolfWhistle]

Well hello gentlemen and ladies if any read this . Hope you're having a great summer! I see several are camping. I've been home from a month in north GA... Loved it. No issues at all. AC works better than when new! Thanks for the tips and photos! PH I checked the connections at the front and didn't find anything broken, but did notice a need for better bonding back to B- (ground). I don't particularly like the frame used for a ground buss, but it us what it is... Steve I can't tell for sure but is the device with LED readout a voltage monitor... I should do that. I like everything you have done! Also, did you install real tile back splash? When I had the belly pan off mine I tried to pay special attention for any pinched wires... Hope I didn't miss a brake wire trouble. As, I routed and tied the up; I made access "covers" to the hidden brake connectors then sealed then up; when CI of Jax swapped axles, they used crimp-on splices outside the "covers" I wish the did that inside the belly pan. When I added gate valves to the three drains, I started to just screw on the pipe ends, but it seemed the valves would be too low to the ground, so I 90'd them as tight to the bottom as was practical. The FW drain with PVC only, but WH and "low point" I 90'd with PEX and turned out the side and made a diamond plate / mount for those gate valves. I turned the down from the vakce and have labeled them. It would be dangerous if someone accidentally opened the WH drain witg WH full of hot water. Today I'm going to wash the spielzug and treat the roof with protectant. Pictures later today.

[stevejd235]

WW,
The LED read out is the progressive hw30c. It gives volts, amps, errors and something else I can't remember right now. There is a bypass switch as well incase the unit goes bad. It trigger the first weekend we were out for about 10 mins. But I had the LED not mounted yet so I'm not sure what the code was.