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Old 03-18-2016, 09:44 AM   #21
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Funny.....
On a similar note why are universal joints and front wheel bearings on rear wheel drive vehicles permanently sealed .
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Old 03-18-2016, 09:52 AM   #22
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Funny.....
On a similar note why are universal joints and front wheel bearings on rear wheel drive vehicles permanently sealed .
What about "Oil Bath" systems? Youroo!!
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Old 03-18-2016, 12:23 PM   #23
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Teamfour ... I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree on this. If you get so frustrated with trying to get EZ lube to work that you call Dexter techs, they'll tell you 1.The wheel needs to be spun 2.The cavity has to be full. The wheel needs to be spun otherwise (assuming you don't blow grease past the rear seal) new grease will only displace old grease in the bearing near where the grease hole in the spindle is.This doesn't work as well as a bearing packer as you're relying on a dust seal not the two clamped halves of the bearing packer. If the cavity isn't full, you won't see grease pushed out the front bearing till it is. Grease will take the path of least resistence which is to fill the cavity before it forces thru the outer bearing. Then comes my main complaint with this invention ... the contaminated grease from the rear bearing is pushed into the cavity between the bearings ... mixing with the grease. Just how much grease do you need to pump to fully displace this contaminated grease out the front bearing so the front bearing has all new grease? If you've ever tried to make this setup work, you'll know it is tediously slow due to the possibility of blowing grease past the rear seal. I could near have the bearings out, cleaned, and repacked in the same amount of time.
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Old 03-18-2016, 12:43 PM   #24
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https://youtu.be/XT0RKDGgDm8

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Old 03-18-2016, 02:37 PM   #25
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Teamfour ... I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree on this.
No need to agree to disagree. In fact I posted that I believe in packing bearing the right way - by hand. In fact I will be doing this tomorrow. My comment was more about the folks that claim the EX-Lube systems don't work at all. I have used them in the past for quick greasing and they work. I just wouldn't use them as the only source of bearing maintenance.
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Old 03-18-2016, 02:45 PM   #26
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What I am about to say has been cussed and discussed at length on many RV forums. The EZ Lube option (grease zerk in middle of axle) on many newer trailer axles causes more trouble than it's intended advantage. DO NOT use a pneumatic grease gun! Pull your wheels every couple of years, clean bearings, repack bearings, install new wheel seals, and look over your brakes while you're in there then enjoy RVing. The EZ Lube depends on 2 major circumstances to work. (1) The wheel off the ground being slowly rotated while you pump grease and (2) the entire cavity between the bearings being full of grease from the factory or dealership. The first circumstance is easy to make happen, the second isn't without possibly blowing grease past the rear wheel seal. I've had to SLOWLY pump nearly 2/3 a tube of grease into each wheel hub just to get enough grease in them to make grease start to push past the outer bearing on countless brake hub assemblies. This is simply because the factory nor the dealerships take the time to fill the cavity. Then you never really know if you blew some grease out past the rear seal and onto the brake shoes no matter how slowly you pump. 2-3 pumps twice a season does nothing except create a placebo of accomlishment in ones mind. Hand pack your bearings every couple of years ... sooner if you live on the road.
Exactly what I do....and yes, the first time I did mine from the factory it took a few cartridges of grease.
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Old 03-18-2016, 04:14 PM   #27
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Funny.....
On a similar note why are universal joints and front wheel bearings on rear wheel drive vehicles permanently sealed .
CV joints and front wheel bearing assembly that are sealed go bad and need to be replaced and sometimes can leave you stranded . most CV joints and rebuild-able , front sealed bearing are not
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Old 03-18-2016, 04:22 PM   #28
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You talk to 10 mechanics and you get 11 different opinions on setting pre-load. Some of them comical

Fill the cavity, don't fill the cavity, no wobble, a tiny bit of wobble (like you can detect 1 thousandth of an inch of play) tighten the castle nut down then loosen it and finger tighten it, tighten it then back it off 1/4 turn.......

You bring up a good topic . pre-load or setting the bearings is as important as grease . and something that can get over looked using the EZ-lube .
hubs need to be pulled at least once a year . only way to see if a rear seal blew before it effects your breaks heading down a 8% grade .
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Old 03-18-2016, 04:31 PM   #29
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I hand-packed my bearings yesterday and put in new seals.

Didn't fill the cavity with grease, only put in about a heaping tablespoon of grease. I was concerned about thermal expansion.

So after reading this thread and finding that youtube from Dexter, I went out and did exactly what was shown to do on the youtube video...... Pumped it until grease started coming out through the castle nut and filled the dust cover. Thermal expansion gonna be a problem??

Went to put a new dust cover on and it was such a PITA, just did the one. Left the other one. I'm not sure about why or if those need changing. I did dent the sides a tad when they wouldn't cooperate. Hammers do that.

Do I need to go through the hassle?

One wheel has a slight amount of play in it. Very slight. I'm talking about maybe a couple thousandths..... No more.

The other wheel has zero play. None. Zip. Nada.

So I took that dust cover off just to ease my mind and found the castle nut to be movable and with no real tension on it.

Hope I'm okay.

Trailer bearings are evil things. 4serial

And oh -- This is on a 5 X 10 motorcycle enclosed motorcycle trailer that I may or may not take to Michigan with me when I go in Mid-May.

I want to but I gotta be confidant in the trailer. I can't see myself broken down on top of the highest mountain in Tennessee. My luck.
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Old 03-18-2016, 04:38 PM   #30
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My TT is in right now for a 4 wheel clean, inspect and repack for $229. Cheap annual cost for peace of mind. Also owned a boat trailer which had the grease fittings that I pumped into regularly due to saltwater submersion. The grease will not blow past the rear seal unless it is bad. When you see the grease starting to come out the around the outside ring of the fitting you are done. Never had a problem with the boat trailer.
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