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Old 03-19-2016, 09:49 AM   #31
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Big toe .
I wouldn't run with any movement of the hub assy. a few thousandth is just the start . since you could turn the nut by hand there is no pre load on the bearing . go back in set the bearing imo
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:37 AM   #32
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I strongly dissagree with your statement that there is no way or almost now way of blowing grease past the rear seal. The real facts are it can and does blow past the rear seal if not done correctly and even then you can have issues with the grease going past the rear seal . the best way to pack bearings is to remove the hub and pack by hand . since my unit was new when picked up from the dealer i used the ez-lube to getter home
. once there and pulled the hubs grease had gotten past this new seal . lucky for me it was just a small amount that did not get on the breaks .

I agree as well. I decided to pack my bearings after about a year and all 4 seals had leaked grease all over the brakes. Pretty sad! Jerry


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Old 03-19-2016, 10:47 AM   #33
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the ez lube is an ok way to add a bit of grease between full bearing inspections and packs but not a way to pack bearings and think it's good to go . to many get a false since of security thinking they took care of their bearings by pumping them full of grease .
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:47 AM   #34
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I agree as well. I decided to pack my bearings after about a year and all 4 seals had leaked grease all over the brakes. Pretty sad! Jerry


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Before you re-packed your bearings, did you notice if there was any 'wobble' in the wheel/hub assembly?

I'm of the opinion (quite possibly wrong) that too much movement, too loose on the castle nut, can kill a seal. We all know that too tight can burn your bearings up, but can too loose cause your seal to sling grease all over....??

But that is strictly an uninformed opinion. And I'd like to hear more....

My little trailer with the Dexter EZ Lubes slung grease on its first trip. About 2,000 miles round trip. Just now found it. I think the pre-load was wrong.

My buddy, a mechanic for 35 years, says a little play in the hub isn't a bad thing. He'd rather have it loose than tight. I think he's wrong. Dead wrong. I tend to agree with the previous poster that no play at all is best.

But how tight do you go? If at all. Finger tight? About the weight of your hand on the wrench? IOW, about 30-40 inch-lbs......??

Trailer bearings are evil
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:00 AM   #35
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I start by spinning the wheel while tightening the nut once the wheel shows resistance i then back off a 1/4 turn and the wheel free spins check for play . guess there are many ways to set a bearing this is what i do . have never used a torque wrench just 40 yrs of practice
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:22 PM   #36
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I've packed my own wheel bearings for 45 years now, and I've never had a bearing or seal failure in that time. IF I remove the hub, I replace the seals. Also, I tighten the castle nut while spinning the hub until resistance is felt. Then back off until I can just barely detect axial clearance. Years ago I did this with a dial indicator and that "barely detected" clearance was about 2 thousandths and my method was consistently at 2-2.5 thousandths on every wheel. That small amount of clearance is critical when that bearing heats up. Hot bearings need a place to go when they thermally grow. Lack of clearance will kill a bearing fast.

That's been my method for years, on vehicles and trailers. Now, here is my question; How do you know that the grease you're pumping into the EZ-Lube is compatible with whatever grease the factory used at initial install? Anyone ever have an issue? Even at highway speeds, the rotation speed is still relatively slow, and I suspect that any quality disc brake compatible grease would mix nicely with other grease brands. That's an opinion based on the fact that I've never had an issue. But I'm also interested in others opinion.

oh yeah, I also handpack every time. It's not hard, and just a little messy, but that's what Lava soap was made for right? Also, I will only fill the cavity to about 50% full. I'm in agreement with whoever remarked about thermal expansion. The brakes combined with highway speed generate heat. Heat softens and expands the grease. It doesn't take a lot of grease to make a wheel bearing happy, but that expansion could easily push grease past the seal and onto the brakes, and we know what that does. Just a little grease on the brake shoes will reduce braking effect a lot, and ruin the shoes in the process.

But tell me what you think about bearing grease compatibility.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:53 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by The Big Toe View Post
Before you re-packed your bearings, did you notice if there was any 'wobble' in the wheel/hub assembly?

I'm of the opinion (quite possibly wrong) that too much movement, too loose on the castle nut, can kill a seal. We all know that too tight can burn your bearings up, but can too loose cause your seal to sling grease all over....??

But that is strictly an uninformed opinion. And I'd like to hear more....

My little trailer with the Dexter EZ Lubes slung grease on its first trip. About 2,000 miles round trip. Just now found it. I think the pre-load was wrong.

My buddy, a mechanic for 35 years, says a little play in the hub isn't a bad thing. He'd rather have it loose than tight. I think he's wrong. Dead wrong. I tend to agree with the previous poster that no play at all is best.

But how tight do you go? If at all. Finger tight? About the weight of your hand on the wrench? IOW, about 30-40 inch-lbs......??

Trailer bearings are evil

There wasn't any wobble when I took the tires off. In fact, they were a little too snug to take off by hand. I needed a pair of pliers to get the nut off. But they weren't too tight either if that makes any sense. When I put them back on, it snugged the nut then backed off until I could slide the cotter pin through. Jerry


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Old 03-19-2016, 01:02 PM   #38
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:39 PM   #39
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I've packed my own wheel bearings for 45 years now, and I've never had a bearing or seal failure in that time. IF I remove the hub, I replace the seals. Also, I tighten the castle nut while spinning the hub until resistance is felt. Then back off until I can just barely detect axial clearance. Years ago I did this with a dial indicator and that "barely detected" clearance was about 2 thousandths and my method was consistently at 2-2.5 thousandths on every wheel. That small amount of clearance is critical when that bearing heats up. Hot bearings need a place to go when they thermally grow. Lack of clearance will kill a bearing fast.

That's been my method for years, on vehicles and trailers. Now, here is my question; How do you know that the grease you're pumping into the EZ-Lube is compatible with whatever grease the factory used at initial install? Anyone ever have an issue? Even at highway speeds, the rotation speed is still relatively slow, and I suspect that any quality disc brake compatible grease would mix nicely with other grease brands. That's an opinion based on the fact that I've never had an issue. But I'm also interested in others opinion.

oh yeah, I also handpack every time. It's not hard, and just a little messy, but that's what Lava soap was made for right? Also, I will only fill the cavity to about 50% full. I'm in agreement with whoever remarked about thermal expansion. The brakes combined with highway speed generate heat. Heat softens and expands the grease. It doesn't take a lot of grease to make a wheel bearing happy, but that expansion could easily push grease past the seal and onto the brakes, and we know what that does. Just a little grease on the brake shoes will reduce braking effect a lot, and ruin the shoes in the process.

But tell me what you think about bearing grease compatibility.

1 i don't think grease expansion plays a part in this and have never had issue with such . temps should not get to hot and if they do you may have other issues .
2 on grease compatibility don't think there's an issue there either
this is all imo
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:41 PM   #40
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Does synthetic grease significantly increase repack cycle?
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