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Old 09-30-2015, 11:43 AM   #1
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winterizing XLR

Hi folks,

I have a 2011 XLR and I'm trying to winterize it before storing it for the winter.

I've drained the hot water tank and have bypassed it using the valves.

The issue I'm having is getting the antifreeze into the system. I,ve noticed on other posts here that some units have a valve in the input line feeding the water pump, but mine doesn't. In my case the line goes directly from the pump to the fresh water tank.

On another post here someone suggested that they were putting antifreeze in to the system through the city water connection. Will that actually work. Under normal conditions you don't need a pump when connected to the city water supply, do you?
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:48 AM   #2
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You can put it in the fresh water holding tank too, but I would buy a winterizing kit and install to where you have a three way valve and hose before the pump and do it that way.
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:52 AM   #3
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I think you are on the right track. If you check your RV Strore or the Internet for a Water Pump Converter Winterizing Kit it will make winterizing your lines easy. Just attach the converter brass bypass between your fresh water tank line and the pump. Turn the bypass valve so when you turn on your water pump it will draw from the antifreeze versus your tank.

Keep a few bottles near your pump as your system may consume 1/2 a gallon just purging the system. Once your pump stops you are set to go around opening/closing water valves till pink stuff appears. Don't forget to do any outside faucets/kitchens/showers. Hope this helps..
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:57 AM   #4
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Its overkill but before I run antifreeze thru the system I blow out the lines using a portable compressor at 30psi. they make a blow out connection that screws into your city water connection so you can connect your compressor and blow out all the lines with air first. Some use Air, some use just the pink stuff and some like me do both. as long as pink stuff comes out of all the lines you are good. Don't forget any low point drains under the trailer. Open up the caps and let the water drain out then reconnect and you should be good to run antifreeze.
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Old 09-30-2015, 04:31 PM   #5
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Its overkill but before I run antifreeze thru the system I blow out the lines using a portable compressor at 30psi. they make a blow out connection that screws into your city water connection so you can connect your compressor and blow out all the lines with air first. Some use Air, some use just the pink stuff and some like me do both. as long as pink stuff comes out of all the lines you are good. Don't forget any low point drains under the trailer. Open up the caps and let the water drain out then reconnect and you should be good to run antifreeze.

Why go to the trouble of blowing them out and then add antifreeze? If you blew them out... You're done. Then just add pink to the traps and call it a day.
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Old 09-30-2015, 04:41 PM   #6
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Why go to the trouble of blowing them out and then add antifreeze? If you blew them out... You're done. Then just add pink to the traps and call it a day.
Why not blow them out? I do all the time just to ensure that it is pure antifreeze and not a diluted mix. I seem to use less antifreeze that way. Maybe I am just too picky.
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Old 09-30-2015, 04:42 PM   #7
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Why go to the trouble of blowing them out and then add antifreeze? If you blew them out... You're done. Then just add pink to the traps and call it a day.
Depending where you live, it can freeze pretty hard. I like to blow out the lines so as not to dilute the antifreeze and I don't trust to simply blow out and not use antifreeze in case of water sitting in low spots. Just takes a few more minutes and I can rest assured when our 35 below weather hits that I am covered...everyone has their way of doing it.
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Old 09-30-2015, 04:55 PM   #8
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Just differing opinions... If you blow the lines out, there shouldn't be any water to freeze. We don't see 35 below. We do see single digits down here. I've never had a problem simply blowing out the lines. To each his own.
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Old 10-04-2015, 12:32 PM   #9
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hello all, hey first time tt owner and I will be winterizing soon, I plan on using the blow out system also, question do I blow out the system while my bypass valves are in the position they are in now ( camping position ) or move the valves then blow out the system. thanks joe I have a 2015 24fqsl
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Old 10-04-2015, 02:15 PM   #10
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Just differing opinions... If you blow the lines out, there shouldn't be any water to freeze. We don't see 35 below. We do see single digits down here. I've never had a problem simply blowing out the lines. To each his own.

You may think you'll get all the water out with air . but most likely won't ' There;s always enough moisture left to cause issues in places like faucet valves , toilet valves etc . adding the rv antifreeze is a sure thing air is not
I would recommend buying rv antifreeze that is mostly polypropylene glycol and not ethyl alcohol . the Alcohol will evaporate out drying out seals
the super tech brand is ethyl alcohol . the prestone brand is mostly glycol
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Old 10-04-2015, 02:28 PM   #11
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hello all, hey first time tt owner and I will be winterizing soon, I plan on using the blow out system also, question do I blow out the system while my bypass valves are in the position they are in now ( camping position ) or move the valves then blow out the system. thanks joe I have a 2015 24fqsl
If you have drained and flushed the tank then yes close them off to bypass.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:45 PM   #12
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I blew mine out last year and with a large compressor (in the shop), regulated pressure; I was amazed at how long it took to remove all the moisture. I would think antifreeze would have been quicker, next time. Maybe we won't get a freeze this year.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:39 PM   #13
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winterizing XLR

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I blew mine out last year and with a large compressor (in the shop), regulated pressure; I was amazed at how long it took to remove all the moisture. I would think antifreeze would have been quicker, next time. Maybe we won't get a freeze this year.
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I never fully trusted the blow-out only method with all the little valves and back flow stuff. So I drown it in pink stuff!


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Old 11-18-2015, 04:50 PM   #14
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ok stupid question but where is the water pump located on the 27hfs??? I thought it was under the bed with the water heater but I don't see it.... it sounds like its under the kitchen sink but I don't want to start taking stuff apart till I know for sure...we are going to run to the obx for a little stripper fishing over thanksgiving and I thought I would run anti freeze through it before we returned to the cold nights here....thanks
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:00 PM   #15
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I am not sure about the 2-7, but its under the sink... on the floor... of a 2-9. I must be special, but mine came with the valve and hose for adding the pink.
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:22 PM   #16
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Guess I'm special too, WW, as mine came with valve and hose as well. Think up in Wisconsin I won't chance it not freezing though!
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:32 PM   #17
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ok thanks....I blew it out and dumped some pink in the traps...it says a couple nights in the mid 20's around here before we leave for the outer banks....when I come home for sure it will be winterized...
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:56 AM   #18
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I am not sure about the 2-7, but its under the sink... on the floor... of a 2-9. I must be special, but mine came with the valve and hose for adding the pink.
WW
My 29hfs has the bypass and extra long hose for winterizing. Being the first time doing this, I went over board and used 4 gallons. Just wanted to be safe than sorry and it only cost a few bucks...
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:44 AM   #19
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I like the idea of draining all tanks - 1
relieve pressure from the water heater (lift the safety valve) -2
removing the anode (if equipped) - 3

EDIT: temporarily use regulated air pressure to finish draining water from the heater... remove the air pressure

bypassing the water heater (close hot and cold and open the bypass valve) -4
WITH REGULATED AIR PRESSURE (no more than 50#) blowing out faucets (hot and cold) at a time... don't forget the outside shower... and the toilet... closing valves after mostly air comes out then disconnect the air pressure -5
Locate the water pump; remove the inlet from the WP, if you don't have a valve and hose... attach or use the provided hose into the water pump.... with the hose into a jug of pink antifreeze turn on the pump - 6
Then one at a time open hot and cold faucets, again including toilet and outside shower until a good concentration of antifreeze comes out -7
turn off the pump -8
reinstall the anode in the water heater - 9
then add a good amount of antifreeze to all drains including the shower -10
open all faucets -11
drain all tanks again -12
It should take between 2 and 3 gallons to Get'R Dun.
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:28 AM   #20
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I would open all H&C faucets,then Turn on the W/H bypass valves,now remove the Low point drains! This stops White Crud from going downstream in your water system. Now remove the ARod/drain plug from your W/H,No need to lift Relief valve as the pressure is removed by opening the Faucets! Youroo!!
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