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Old 09-11-2014, 07:35 PM   #11
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What are external navigation lights?

The top right larger cable should be coming from the BCO, as it is on mine.

I'm going out on a limb and say that what I think is happening, is the smallish red wire on the bus bar top, second post from the right is somehow feeding B+ power to the bar, which is powering the converter, which in turn keeps the lights on. With everything connected back where it was originally, disconnect this one wire and see what you have. Of course, make sure the unit isn't connected to the tow vehicle, battery charger nor shore power.... only this one battery.

I also notice you have what looks like a battery maintainer cable connected to the battery. If your unit is like mine, it should have a smart charger and if so, you don't need a maintainer.
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:40 PM   #12
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Sorry I've used to boat a lot. Navigation lights meaning brake, turn signal and rear lights, but I really don't know what that cable feeds. Yes I put the battery tender on since I can't disconnect dc power, my battery succumbs if I leave it over a week. The storage facility only has small amp plugs , so I just use the battery tender vs the plugin on the trailer I disconnected that one red wire and all interior lights and radio lost power no matter if the dc disconnect is on or off.


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Old 09-12-2014, 01:03 PM   #13
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I thought that was what you meant by navigation lights. These all (running, brake, turn and backup) are fed from the truck and by its power. You shouldn't have to deal with any of these as we try to figure out why the BCO isn't working. The only thing from the truck (on this fuse block / bus) is the B+ feed from the truck... that's steady 12Vdc power from your tow vehicle arriving through the 7 pin plug. I understand why you have the battery tender now.

SO, we are getting somewhere. To be sure, when you disconnect the wire I labeled "E" you didn't have lights, regardless of the BCO... on or off. I think I am seeing an inline fuse on it. Tell me where it goes.

While you are at it and in the interest of time, tell me where the wire I labeled "A" as well as the blue / white on that same post (with the battery cable) is going.
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Old 09-12-2014, 01:10 PM   #14
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Yes I don't understand the reason for the wire w the fuse. But yes once, it's disconnected , there is no power inside.
The dc disconnect makes no difference. U may not remember, but a month ago I actually disconnected all cables to the back of the dc disconnect. It made no difference. Still had power to all interior light, fans stereo etc. I haven't checked the cables coming in to that disconnect switch, but I bet there is no voltage.


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Old 09-12-2014, 04:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOONERSALT View Post
Yes I don't understand the reason for the wire w the fuse. But yes once, it's disconnected , there is no power inside.
The dc disconnect makes no difference. U may not remember, but a month ago I actually disconnected all cables to the back of the dc disconnect. It made no difference. Still had power to all interior light, fans stereo etc. I haven't checked the cables coming in to that disconnect switch, but I bet there is no voltage.


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I finally see it.. I think! The red wire is strapped between the battery lug (lower left) and the top of the bus bar, essentially bypassing the non-funtioning battery cutoff switch. This isn't a factory mod. I would like you to remove this strap and very, very carefully swap the cables I identify in the attached picture, that is if I can do it... if not I'll reply again and attach.
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Old 09-12-2014, 07:55 PM   #16
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Soonersalt, Ignore my reply asking you to swap cables. I don't think that is it nor will prove anything. I just came in from testing and verifying my connections and they look like the picture I drew in Paint. First its true that your trailer is running on the red strap between the Battery terminal connection on the fuse and the bus bar (A and E). With that strap removed and the battery cutoff switch ON test like this:

1) Do you have 12Vdc at the Battery connection? (not the one on its own fuse for the generator, but the one connected to the smaller fuse - bottom left), this proves your meter is on the right scale (etc) and you are using a good ground to test.
2) Now test the other side if that fuse... the post directly above it. Do you have 12Vdc? If yes, continue, if N that fuse is open.
3) Now test the wire labeled "C"; do you have 12Vdc? If Y, continue, if N you have an open between "G" and "C" (wiring or cutoff switch)
4) Now test the copper bus; do you have 12Vdc, if yes all is well (which we know it isn't) so, if step 4 shows bad that fuse (second from the right) is open.

I bet either step 2 or step 4 showed no voltage. As I understand it, they should reset automatically and are somewhere between 30 and 50 Amps, but you have to take the bad one out to see what you need to replace.
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