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Old 08-10-2014, 09:42 AM   #1
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XLR 29HFS Battery Cut Off (BCO)

Soonersalt,

I thought it best to continue this on a new thread, hope you find it. I took pictures and can take more and explain more if you need me to; and you can call me if you want to, if so PM me. So, I am posting pictures of the junction box and connections at the front of the trailer. In both pictures the Battery Cable goes to the same + connection on the same battery, no matter if you have one or two batteries.

Notice, in the "busy" picture, the protected / fused and bus bar (I called it "buss" in errror), the copper bus doesn't extend all the way to the far left "To BCO cable" and the Battery Cab. (#4AWG) connects via a fuse; then the cable FROM the BCO (#4AWG) DOES connect to this bus. So, through the BCO, this bus allows other fuses to be installed and other devices added.

What I can identify is that the break-away switch is direct connected to the Battery Cab. (it has an inline fuse farther down the blue wire). #12AWG.

The Converter is another #4AWG; I am not sure, but I assume the other #4AWG goes to the slide. I also didn't identify it, but the fueling station is there as well and I think it is the doubled-up blue and white (#12AWG) on the same fuse I ran a red #10AWG to the access panel lower right on pantry cabinet. I should get my own fuse for that function and will.

The other picture is simple... it shows the battery cable a resettable breaker and the cable that runs to the generator compartment.

Let me know if I can be of further help.

Wolf.

Originally Posted by SOONERSALT
Wolf whistle. That is exactly what i did before I unhooked the cables from the dc disconnect entirely. Yes w the correct cable on the battery all dc products work like lights and stereo but they also stay on w the dc disconnect switch in off or on. I also don't have any AC source of power plugged into the camper. Yes I have the gen prep package but no generator. I would bet if I did have the generator would not start w the disconnect in off position. Somehow I think the factory got this crossed. I had planned to take a meter and take voltage readings at different places just to see if I could verify my suspicion. The wiring between the battery and the dc disconnect is hard for me to understand. What I was trying to say above, was that I unscrewed and removed the disconnect and took the cables off of it as well. Even doing that did not affect my ability to turn on lights( w no AC power to the camper either)
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:44 AM   #2
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These are the pictures.
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:38 PM   #3
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I pulled the trailer out of storage today getting ready for 750 mile trip to Colorado Wed. Took a few photos and compared to yours. They look very similar. Still trying to digest if there may be a difference somewhere. 
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:46 AM   #4
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I can see you have a wire (red) connected directly to the battery connection point - lower left lug, which could be your break-a-way, but you also have another red wire connected to the bus (top), which i think i can see an inline fuse that i dont think should be there... the bus should be fed rrom the BCO when it is on. Maybe this is defeating the BCO... try taking it off and see what youve got. Without shore power see if turning the BCO off you can cut off the lights.
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Old 08-19-2014, 05:22 AM   #5
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I see what you mean and will give it a try. Im a little short on time w work and getting ready for trip tomorrow. Prob will have time on the trip though. Your photos w the writing on them are so helpful. How did you get all the labels on the photographs?


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Old 08-19-2014, 06:48 PM   #6
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Once you have a picture on your pc... you can open with Paint, the free drawing program, do your thing and save it.
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Old 09-07-2014, 01:18 PM   #7
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Finally spent a little time on the disconnect. Removed the wire with the fuse which removed all dc power to the TT. I tried reconnecting the wire to the post below its original placement along with the two posts to the right. Could not get power without it in its original position. Took a look at the large gauge red wires to right. The one on the upper right post goes to front of the trailer instead of back with the others. I assume it goes to the power lift. Looking at ur diagram, this should go to the disconnect. I wonder if a couple of these large gauge wires are out if position?


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Old 09-07-2014, 01:35 PM   #8
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I went on and tried moving the lower large gauge wires into the upper right with no change. Still had power but the disconnect did not shut down power.


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Old 09-09-2014, 02:21 PM   #9
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I was thinking about your reply (#7). My guess is that wiring is wrong. But which wire or wires? I bet we can figure this thing out.

Please be careful and do not short or ground any wiring you are working with. Shorting out a battery could be hazardous to your health!!!

Make sure you are not on shore power... or on generator power.... battery or batteries, only.

Looking at the picture I attached... first confirm that the cable I labeled Battery Cable does indeed go to Battery.

Next make absolutely sure (visibly is probably good enough) that the copper bus (horizontal copper thing running left to right attached to the fuses... isn't touching the lug to its left.

It looks like I missed a blue/white cable attached on the same lug as the battery. Lets just call it Blue/White.

Next I want you to take off one wire at a time (and in order) and tell me what stopped working when it (and only it) was disconnected. Start with Blue/White...then proceed from A down the alphabet in order by first disconnecting, then testing, and then replace the wire back like you found it ... then write down what you find.

When you have a wire off, test everything that uses DC. Since it is possible that one wire feeds more than one thing... electric tongue jack, a break-away switch, the slide out, a fuse panel that supplys DC to everything that needs it: lights, vent hood, furnace, radio, antenna, etc. I have cigarette lighters installed too. I don't know what all you might have wired.

If you know for sure that "Cable A" is your tongue jack no need to test everything. Same for the breakaway switch, you can trace that easily, but don't assume anything.
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:48 PM   #10
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Thanks for reply. I have put the trailer back in storage but will have it out next week. PS. My comment about cable F earlier going to the jack was mistaken, as i tested the jack and it still worked. Maybe it ties in up front to the brake and exterior navigation lights. Ill update when possible.


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Old 09-11-2014, 06:35 PM   #11
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What are external navigation lights?

The top right larger cable should be coming from the BCO, as it is on mine.

I'm going out on a limb and say that what I think is happening, is the smallish red wire on the bus bar top, second post from the right is somehow feeding B+ power to the bar, which is powering the converter, which in turn keeps the lights on. With everything connected back where it was originally, disconnect this one wire and see what you have. Of course, make sure the unit isn't connected to the tow vehicle, battery charger nor shore power.... only this one battery.

I also notice you have what looks like a battery maintainer cable connected to the battery. If your unit is like mine, it should have a smart charger and if so, you don't need a maintainer.
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Old 09-11-2014, 08:40 PM   #12
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Sorry I've used to boat a lot. Navigation lights meaning brake, turn signal and rear lights, but I really don't know what that cable feeds. Yes I put the battery tender on since I can't disconnect dc power, my battery succumbs if I leave it over a week. The storage facility only has small amp plugs , so I just use the battery tender vs the plugin on the trailer I disconnected that one red wire and all interior lights and radio lost power no matter if the dc disconnect is on or off.


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Old 09-12-2014, 12:03 PM   #13
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I thought that was what you meant by navigation lights. These all (running, brake, turn and backup) are fed from the truck and by its power. You shouldn't have to deal with any of these as we try to figure out why the BCO isn't working. The only thing from the truck (on this fuse block / bus) is the B+ feed from the truck... that's steady 12Vdc power from your tow vehicle arriving through the 7 pin plug. I understand why you have the battery tender now.

SO, we are getting somewhere. To be sure, when you disconnect the wire I labeled "E" you didn't have lights, regardless of the BCO... on or off. I think I am seeing an inline fuse on it. Tell me where it goes.

While you are at it and in the interest of time, tell me where the wire I labeled "A" as well as the blue / white on that same post (with the battery cable) is going.
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Old 09-12-2014, 12:10 PM   #14
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Yes I don't understand the reason for the wire w the fuse. But yes once, it's disconnected , there is no power inside.
The dc disconnect makes no difference. U may not remember, but a month ago I actually disconnected all cables to the back of the dc disconnect. It made no difference. Still had power to all interior light, fans stereo etc. I haven't checked the cables coming in to that disconnect switch, but I bet there is no voltage.


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Old 09-12-2014, 03:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOONERSALT View Post
Yes I don't understand the reason for the wire w the fuse. But yes once, it's disconnected , there is no power inside.
The dc disconnect makes no difference. U may not remember, but a month ago I actually disconnected all cables to the back of the dc disconnect. It made no difference. Still had power to all interior light, fans stereo etc. I haven't checked the cables coming in to that disconnect switch, but I bet there is no voltage.


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I finally see it.. I think! The red wire is strapped between the battery lug (lower left) and the top of the bus bar, essentially bypassing the non-funtioning battery cutoff switch. This isn't a factory mod. I would like you to remove this strap and very, very carefully swap the cables I identify in the attached picture, that is if I can do it... if not I'll reply again and attach.
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Old 09-12-2014, 06:55 PM   #16
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Soonersalt, Ignore my reply asking you to swap cables. I don't think that is it nor will prove anything. I just came in from testing and verifying my connections and they look like the picture I drew in Paint. First its true that your trailer is running on the red strap between the Battery terminal connection on the fuse and the bus bar (A and E). With that strap removed and the battery cutoff switch ON test like this:

1) Do you have 12Vdc at the Battery connection? (not the one on its own fuse for the generator, but the one connected to the smaller fuse - bottom left), this proves your meter is on the right scale (etc) and you are using a good ground to test.
2) Now test the other side if that fuse... the post directly above it. Do you have 12Vdc? If yes, continue, if N that fuse is open.
3) Now test the wire labeled "C"; do you have 12Vdc? If Y, continue, if N you have an open between "G" and "C" (wiring or cutoff switch)
4) Now test the copper bus; do you have 12Vdc, if yes all is well (which we know it isn't) so, if step 4 shows bad that fuse (second from the right) is open.

I bet either step 2 or step 4 showed no voltage. As I understand it, they should reset automatically and are somewhere between 30 and 50 Amps, but you have to take the bad one out to see what you need to replace.
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