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Old 07-23-2016, 08:19 PM   #1
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XLR Boost electrical

We recently purchased our 2nd Forest River RV. We have an XLR Boost 27QB with 30amp. We dry camp for motocross, so we are using two 2000w generators paralleled together. The generators will trip, go into over current, or not start at all while running the AC. We installed a hard start kit and that would allow the generators to run for a few hours max. Did some research and found out the AC is a Dometic Duo Therm 13,500 btu and requires a minimum 3500w (this doesn't make sense). Borrowed two 2000w generators paralleled to see if it was our generators but same issue. Borrowed a 3000w and it did the same thing. Looking at getting Briggs and Stratton 3000w and 2200w to parallel (which seems like overkill). We think there is an electrical issue. Please provide any recommendations.
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Old 07-24-2016, 02:42 AM   #2
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I'm thinking something is wrong especially if those are 2 Honda 2000 I can run my 15btu on one Honda 2000 it got to be in full run mode not ECO - and no problems if I parallel 2 - I have 2 hands 2000ui and 4000 onen genset - I normally only carry 1 Honda 2000 with me dry camping because it is so much quieter than the built in onen

I'm thinking you have the electric water heater turned on - or other large draw item - turn off all other breakers except AC

When AC is on I can't run anything else - like microwave even w built in onen 4000 genset
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Old 07-24-2016, 07:28 AM   #3
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Hello Hirstius,

You need to look at real ratings on any Generator not the nameplate. A Honda 2,000 watt is only 1600 watts, they can make 2,000 watts but only for short time. Your combo is 3200 watts. I would assume by your description you are in a middle of hot field. As the temp goes up the AC has to draw more current to keep up . I have a 4,000 watt Powerhouse generator , fuel injected (cold weather operation), and this will run my 15k btu fine.
I would recommend if finance allow that you buy a 7,000 watt generator, Powerhouse/Lifan makes a Inverter style also Honda. You have a Toy Hauler so you can just wheel it in.
The other poster is correct, check other draws as well. If running on generator you need to be cautious of other load.
I would stay from mixed sizes for Paralleling, are the Briggs and Straton Inverter style? There are many Generac, Bolly, Brigs, Dometic, Powerouse that are the same generator with a different badge or features.
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:16 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirstius View Post
We recently purchased our 2nd Forest River RV. We have an XLR Boost 27QB with 30amp. We dry camp for motocross, so we are using two 2000w generators paralleled together. The generators will trip, go into over current, or not start at all while running the AC. We installed a hard start kit and that would allow the generators to run for a few hours max. Did some research and found out the AC is a Dometic Duo Therm 13,500 btu and requires a minimum 3500w (this doesn't make sense). Borrowed two 2000w generators paralleled to see if it was our generators but same issue. Borrowed a 3000w and it did the same thing. Looking at getting Briggs and Stratton 3000w and 2200w to parallel (which seems like overkill). We think there is an electrical issue. Please provide any recommendations.
I have to wonder like NS if other 12volt things are on; or if you have another issue. Fridge and WH on gas, I can start and run my 13.5 Dometic with start assist capacitor, on a single EU2000i, but would never attempt to leave it on. Was just testing. With two in parallel should be easy-peasy. That AC should only need 16amps to run it and the gensets in parallel should be capable of 26A. How many amps were you pulling? WW
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Old 07-25-2016, 10:44 PM   #5
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Thank you for the information. The inverter generators we were running are Smarter Tools AP2000iq powered with Yamaha motor and they get paralleled 3600w surge, 3000w running, 30amp surge, 25amp running . Plus, we are at 5280 altitude and aware of derating. We figured 3000w less 20% for altitude = 2400w. We tried two Honda's and the 3000 was a Yamaha. Items that are usually on are fridge (auto switch-unable to switch to propane when on generator), pump, microwave is plugged in but not used, 2 tv's plugged in and 1 occasionally used, DVD/radio combo, occasionally Fantastic fan, happijack, water heater is on electric but not switched on unless we need it (will have to check on switching it to gas). The Briggs and Stratton are the inverter 3000 and 2200 combo pack that says they get 2600 and 1700 less 200w for paralleling = 4100w less 20% = 3280w. RV is currently at the dealer for warranty work, so they are checking the amps that the AC is pulling. Because we are using it at a motocross track, AC is a must on most days. It was 99 here the other day, so itís pretty hot out there.
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:15 AM   #6
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?My Domestic 6CF has auto but also has a gas button?
Some of appliances you mention have parasitic loads even if off. Your converter as well. I switch everything off absolutely not needed, when in a situation like you were experiencing. If you don't have one, you should get a good EMS such Progressive that protects as well as shows you current and volts (and Hz).
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Old 07-31-2016, 09:56 PM   #7
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I've got a 27QB and a Yamaha 3000iseb generator and haven't had the issues you speak of. Ran for 3.5 days straight over Memorial Day weekend and never crapped out. On our trailer, you don't have the option to knock the fridge down to gas only if there is electric applied. As others have said, make sure the electric water heater element is off and don't try to use the microwave with the AC on. Other wise, you may want to call the stealership for the electrical system if you can't rectify it on your own.
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:26 PM   #8
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Electric water heater?? I have done the before, forgot to turn it off and then next time I have gone camping into the bush with a smaller generator I kept tripping it. Took me some head scratching before a realized
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