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Old 04-08-2015, 05:22 PM   #11
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My money is still on that it's not plugged in. Especially if it's as hard as you say to access the rear of it, if it wasn't plugged in at the factory, the dealers guy may not have had success or bothered with it.
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:32 PM   #12
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Here's my access to my water heater thru the panel hole I have
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Now I've removed the entire breaker panel to see a little better. At least I can see some of the wires!
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:33 PM   #13
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I see your dilemma. I believe that's your 12 volt junction box you're looking at. What you are looking for (the 120 volt junction box) is also on the other side of the heater.

Hey, look at that pretty hot water line shutoff valve in the top pic. I am assuming you have some more valves behind the flexible ductwork at the bottom and to the right of.

This is where it wold be good to have an inspection camera/borescope.
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Old 04-08-2015, 05:45 PM   #14
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After dinner I'll go back out and try to shove my arm back to that corner of the heater and see what I can feel.

I might go to harbor freight and get one of those inspection cameras or put a usb camera on a stick. 😄

At this point I think I hope it just not plugged in but then I'd have to find the outlet. 😳


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Old 04-08-2015, 05:47 PM   #15
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Oh and yes!

There are two more valves behind the lower duct.


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Old 04-08-2015, 09:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2oldfolks View Post
Oh and yes!

There are two more valves behind the lower duct.


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Like stated previously, it's good to know how to access your three winterization valves should you need to use them.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:37 PM   #17
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Ok I found the 120v cable going to the water heater. It IS hard wired.

But here's another wiring anomaly....
It is connected to a breaker labeled "GENERAL", whatever that means.

So then what's connected to the breaker labeled "water heater". Oh!! I know it's the rooftop air conditioner. But .... Then what's connected to the breaker labeled "air conditioner"? I know it must be "general". ????????

So of the 7 breakers I have..
MAIN is correct
CONVERTOR is correct
G.F.I. is correct
MICRO is correct
GENERAL is wrong
AIR CONDITIONER is wrong
WATER HEATER is wrong

Pretty good that's 54% on wiring the breaker panel. PLUS I found that they broke off their square drive screwdriver bit in the wire attachment screw head while using their power screwdriver.

Wires now attached to the correct breakers.

Sorry...... I got side tracked.
The problem still is I don't have any power to the water heater.

So I verified I have 12v leaving the panel switch into a blue wire.

I have 120v leaving a breaker with the cable going to an inaccessible junction box on the water heater.

I have continuity from the wire feeding the switch that is inside the outside door/cover of the water heater, all the way thru the heating element.

So I figure there are basically three things that may be wrong.

1) bad relay
2) bad 12v circuit. Either the positive 12v coming from the inside panel blue wire doesn't make it to the relay's cool OR the ground (0v) wire doesn't connect back to the battery's negative.
3) The 120v hot leg isn't connected to the relay or the relay's output isn't connected to the on/off switch's wire.

I haven't heard a "click" of a relay yet (will try to listen again tomorrow) so I am leaning towards a control problem rather than a power problem.

Stay tuned!!!!




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Old 04-08-2015, 09:42 PM   #18
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Well Crud! I was hoping that it was going to be something simple.

As thorough as you sound, I still am searching for easy. The propane side is turned off, so the water is not hot inside the heater?
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Old 04-09-2015, 07:25 AM   #19
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The gas heater section has been off for weeks, the water heater is completely cool.

On the subject of the relay...
I assume the relay is a mechanical relay rather than a solid state relay? I say that because trailer and trailer equipment manufacturers seems to use the cheapest/lightest components available. If solid state, I obviously wouldn't be able hear it "click" when energizing/de-energizing.

Any ideas on it's type?


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Old 04-09-2015, 07:46 AM   #20
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According to Google:

Using Suburban part # from my post # 2 gets this:

Suburban Water Heater Relay, 232948

Looking at the pic there, and using the Zettler # on the relay, get's this:

http://www.azettler.com/pdfs/az2280.pdf
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