Originally Posted by 2oldfolks
Went back to the schematic of the water heater. Saw that the BLUE wire is NOT for the electric part of the water heater, orange is the one I want. Looked at the electric water heater switch on the panel. Sure enough it's not the blue wire but the orange wire connected to the switch. Re-tested for 12v coming out of the switch. yep it's still there. Not sure how I thought it was the blue wire but no matter. I also a current meter inline at the output of the panel switch so I measure the milliamp draw of the coil on the relay. I thought maybe I just can't hear it it click but there was zero current.
Dove back into the access hole to check for 12v at the water heater end of the orange wire. This time I left the panel switch on with meter still connected. When I started to grab the orange wire to try to get is closer to the opening, I heard the relay click!!!!!!!!!!!! I also had current showing on the meter. I think it was about 75 ma.(?)
The crimp splice was more crimped on the insulation than the wires. So I re-crimped the splice and voila!!! HOT WATER via electricity.
Thank you very much for your help.
Now I just need to fix the furnace duct i tore in half.
You are very welcome. Glad you got it fixed up. That took a lot of perseverance on your part to trace it like you did. You also seem extremely knowledgeable in this area. I have to wonder if a RV dealer would have found that, unless it happens a lot.
Also thanks for posting a detailed explanation of the fix. It may help others in the future.
I believe after finding a bad wire crimp, a furnace duct will be small potatoes for you.
BTW, when I looked at the wiring schematic, it doesn't show entirely where the +12 volt is coming from to either of the switches. However, I think have seen on an Atwood schematic where there is a +12 volt jumper wire between the electric and propane switches that provided +12 volt power to both. It's possible this is the same for the Suburban. That the +12 volt feeds, say the propane switch, then there is a jumper wire from the propane switch over to the electric switch to provide power to it also without running an entire different +12 volt wire. So you could have on one side of a switch two wires (the +12 volt from the battery and one end of the jumper wire going over to the other switch). However this is all supposition on my part. You are in a better position to confirm or refute it.
Does this make sense to you?
It's kind of like this simpler schematic of the Atwood switches. Remember this is an Atwood schematic and not a Suburban so the wire color codes will not per se correspond. As you know all either of the switches does, is connects(on) or disconnects(off) the 12 volt power. One side of the switch is always going to be hot, then makes the other side of the switch hot when turned on to send power to where it needs to go (in your case the relay for the electric heating element)