Just can't win

[Taranwanderer]

I'm still in shock that a dude from Cali used the word "cattywompus" (PA spelling) correctly in a sentence!

Seriously, good luck with the door, that is messed up. I think my next trip would be to IN...

[ryanq55]

A closer shot

[ryanq55]

Originally Posted by Taranwanderer

I'm still in shock that a dude from Cali used the word "cattywompus" (PA spelling) correctly in a sentence!

Seriously, good luck with the door, that is messed up. I think my next trip would be to IN...

Hahaha...actually heard it from a guy I was working with who was from Arkansas!!! When he said it I looked at him like WTF just happened???

[ryanq55]

Polarisguy & AMG, heres some photos of the underbelly...

-The 60gal with the single support underneath thats already bowed pretty bad
-The tube between the two tanks to transfer the water into the additional 60gal...which i think i may bleach the tanks or clean them somehow and replace that hose with a black one seeing as the clear tube letting light in looks like it allowed algea to grow already You can also see the gray filler tube up above, behind the wiring in the pic
-The 100gal with the drain valve which seems to be mounted in the pretty stout with like 3 supports (you can see how the trailer brake wires just kinda flop around too...wanting to clean that up)
-The underbelly looking towards the front with all the wiring I want to clean up...even thinking of maybe re-running the LP line straight down the middle and T'ing off from there to the water heater and quick-connect/fridge line to get it away from under the fram rail on the one side.

[dieselbobcat]

In addition to a lockwasher, you need some thick fender washers on there to get maximum friction when torquing down... get some grade 8 or 10 cut washers (they will be much stiffer and thicker than grade 5... they have a yellow oxide finish to them...) and slip them in with a serrated or lock washer.

I would personally swap all the hardware for grade 8 if it has been repeatedly fooled with by the dealer...

[PolarisGuy]

Originally Posted by ryanq55

Polarisguy & AMG, heres some photos of the underbelly...

-The 60gal with the single support underneath thats already bowed pretty bad
-The tube between the two tanks to transfer the water into the additional 60gal...which i think i may bleach the tanks or clean them somehow and replace that hose with a black one seeing as the clear tube letting light in looks like it allowed algea to grow already You can also see the gray filler tube up above, behind the wiring in the pic
-The 100gal with the drain valve which seems to be mounted in the pretty stout with like 3 supports (you can see how the trailer brake wires just kinda flop around too...wanting to clean that up)
-The underbelly looking towards the front with all the wiring I want to clean up...even thinking of maybe re-running the LP line straight down the middle and T'ing off from there to the water heater and quick-connect/fridge line to get it away from under the fram rail on the one side.

Awesome post dude! And yeah, makes me think of a lot of things....

A. Glad we all paid 40k for our 35' toy haulers to spend our weekends fixing SH**!!
B. Gave me some good ideas especially about that nasty algea in the tube lol.
C. Had been wanting to mention the break lines. Now it just made me remember!

[ryanq55]

So after tinkering around with my ramp door that seems to just not be able to hold a constant position, I discovered this...

The holes of the hinge that bolt to the "bumper" plate are actually just shy of 1/2", so the 3/8" bolts slop around quite a bit

The "slotted" holes in the bumper plate had no washers on the backsides behind the nuts, which leads me to believe with bouncing down the road they moved quite a bit and werent able to really grasp a flat surface.

After muscling around with a pry bar to finally center the door i was able to discover the first curbside set of slotted holes didnt even line up with the hinge holes, which in turn automatically offset my door to the curbside, giving me the gap on the roadside...........if that makes sense

Soooooooo, im going to replace the 3/8'' allen bolts with hex head bolts, because I stripped 3 trying to take the damn things off.
Re-drill the last holes for the hinge to line up correctly, and im going to use serrated flange nuts and hope that locks the door in place and stops it from moving around.

If that doesnt work, I will try switching to 1/2" hardware....

If that doesnt work I will probably blow my trailer up