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Old 11-21-2014, 10:50 PM   #1
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Windows Oozing Goo

Anyone else having this issue. I'm the second owner of this 2010 Stealth FS2510. I can't believe this is happening 4 years later with all the windows and dealer said its normal. I previously owned an RV and 2 TTs and never seen this before. First pic/post on this forum so hope it loads ok.
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Old 11-21-2014, 11:04 PM   #2
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If it's a rubbery gooey type substance, it might be butyl. Usually the butyl will ooze out over time, if that's how those were installed. You can take a plastic putty knife, or something along those lines and trim it off, if it is in fact butyl. However, I've never seen butyl look like that.
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Old 11-21-2014, 11:41 PM   #3
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Thanks for the input. I've gone around and done that twice and its continues to do the same. I get a fairly good size ball of the stuff set it on a piece of plastic and it self levels. I just don't understand a manufacturer using this type of sealant for windows. Though I scratch my head and wonder about a lot of stuff they do. I could never work for any of these companies with some of the workmanship you see.
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Old 11-22-2014, 12:10 AM   #4
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Butyl usually doesn't self level. It does ooze, but I've never seen it drip like that. You said it was all the windows. If it weren't all of them, I might guess somebody reset / resealed them with something else. Only thing I know of that's white and self levels is Dicor lap sealant. Surely the manf. didn't use that on a window. If put on a window like that, I'm pretty sure it would drip. Got me curious now.
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Old 11-22-2014, 10:50 PM   #5
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Ours does this too, and there is a Forest River trailer in the storage space next to ours and it is doing it too. Maybe normal but is unsightly and a mess to clean up.
I see a resealing of the windows in our near future.
Ours is a 2010 and the one parked next to us looks like a new model.
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Old 09-14-2015, 01:21 AM   #6
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Mine does this too. Forrest River definitely used the wrong product. I would think they'd offer a fix for this under some sort of extended warranty, but that's probably just wishful thinking.
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Old 09-14-2015, 01:49 AM   #7
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That ain't right and I would be getting seriously concerned with the integrity of the seal around the windows.
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Old 09-14-2015, 05:20 AM   #8
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Tend to agree...

Quote:
Originally Posted by kandl View Post
That ain't right and I would be getting seriously concerned with the integrity of the seal around the windows.
Sure looks like the wrong product has been used. Seems inevitable that the fix is removal and replacement using the right product. That stuff is leaving a void which water will fill, so I would not wait to get it corrected.
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Old 09-15-2015, 10:19 AM   #9
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You may not like this answer but I've seen this happen at the dealership I use to work at as well. Our fix was to pull the windows, do the job right and never saw it again. I know that sounds like a lot of work but you could probably pull the windows and put on new Butyl tape in a weekends worth of work. If you've never seen it done here is a good video to maybe help you out.

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Old 09-15-2015, 10:33 AM   #10
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I spoke with a service manager at a Stealth dealer yesterday in Rialto, CA. and mentioned this issue. He was familiar with it and said to just keep wiping it away. He says after about 3 removals it should be done oozing out.

I guess that's when it runs out of sealant,.... so does that mean it'll leak ?

He said they stopped using it, not because it was doing this but because it was too expensive. LOL. Wouldn't want to do the right thing for the right reason i guess.

I'll probably one day start taking out a window at a time and doing it properly.
Thanks for the video.
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Old 09-15-2015, 10:45 AM   #11
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the industry should know better.. they tried this product in the 80s. i believe it was so they could have better cold weather performance for construction ease. anyway, it will ooze till you can throw a dead cat through the gap. they went to foam for the longest time, but it just shrinks and eventually the same cat will fit. clean and caulk. i like lexel from ace. should be warranty/recall issue. seems like they go one generation and then repeat the same mistakes...

edit: this thread belongs ithe tech boards IMO
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Old 09-15-2015, 10:56 AM   #12
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Thanks, i was wondering what product to use. I'll give the Lexel a try. Glad i revived the old thread. Doesn't look like it ever came to a conclusion.

These kind of issues sure are a disappointment. I know RV's of all types are POS, and require constant repair, but like you said.... the industry should know better.
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Old 09-15-2015, 10:57 AM   #13
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We are seeing the same issue as well although we have had no leaks. Seems to have occurred during this past summer more than before. We were doing a fair amount of desert camping with temps nearing 100 so I'm pretty sure it is heat related. I have made it a habit, based on recommendations from others, to use a clear silicone sealer each fall around the tops of all the windows, doors hatches etc. This insures a good seal against any degradation in the original sealant due to vibration and the usual wear and tear. Since seeing the ooze mostly coming from the lower section of the windows, I have been trying the following "simple fix" and so far it seems to work. I use the plastic putty knife and push the original sealant back under the window frame. Most of it will mush back up in there. Then I run a bead of the clear sealant around the entire window making sure to fill in any gaps. So far no more ooze and no leaks (we've had a pretty wet summer). The hope is this "simple fix" will hold up. Next summer's outings will tell for sure.
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Old 09-16-2015, 10:53 AM   #14
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if you do pull the frame, becareful to tighten screws carefully if the frame split is on solid glass. one screw in this area too tight, too soon and it splits the glass.
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Old 01-31-2016, 08:57 PM   #15
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Well so tired of still scraping the sealant all last year I've finally decided to tackle this problem so I took one window out today to see what I was getting into. Window was stuck in place really well for the amount of sealant that has ran out since 2008, exterior frame has a 3/8" thick foam attached to it with the sealant on top of that. The tape on the bottom of the frame was wedged/squished in between the trailer siding and the frame and the friggin sealant is like it was applied yesterday. It's a messy job but going to put back in with the good old fashioned flat caulk tape the seal the top edge with Lexel. Thanks for everyone's response and input and sorry I didn't post in the tech section.
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Old 01-31-2016, 11:41 PM   #16
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I like the 100%'butyl tape. double thick if your on corregated metal and not smooth. you will need to trim this right away and again in a few hours and probably again the following day. no additional caulk is needed at that point. though not advised by most, its forever...what you posted is easier and more greatly approved by the masses and yields fine results. the lexel should be good for several years.
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Old 02-01-2016, 05:55 PM   #17
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Has anyone had trouble removing the valances that hold the blinds? Ours looks like they have to be removed to gain access to the screws around the inside of the frame on our Wildwood.
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Old 02-03-2016, 08:36 AM   #18
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With my stealth there attached with two screws on each side, top and bottom, look and you will find them, very easy.
Its still not right that the Windows do this from the factory and understand why the dealer wouldn't make the repair, it's very labor intensive and a huge time suck. But one window a day or every other day and it will eventually be done once and for all.
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Old 02-04-2016, 01:54 AM   #19
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Thanks cafirefhtr. I noticed couple of screws near the legs of the valance, but others bit harder to see. Once I start to remove, I will probably be able to notice attachment points of screws. Butyl caulk is NOT the same as Butyl tape. But with the slap and run'em out the door, quantity vs quality business model, not really a surprise. Just disappointing.
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Old 04-20-2016, 07:51 AM   #20
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My 2011 Stealth 2216 is oozing too. How did you clean it?
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