Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-15-2015, 09:30 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Crockett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 833
had a late thought...sort of after the fact. did you say coach was new? it would have been good to document install with pictures. sodium chromate begins to crystalize in the boiler chamber above 210 degrees. the small siphon tube there can get a layer in it(like hardening of the arteries) or block altogether. bottom line...damage may have been done to the core even with the fan. not trying to stir the pot...just stating known facts. should have a good rate of pull down and 60 delta T if operating properly.
__________________

__________________
Crockett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2015, 01:08 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Alabama
Posts: 189
Same problem: here was my remedy on a 4 month old trailer.

I pulled my dometic out and lined the sides of the cabinets with styro board insulation from Home Depot. Also closed the dead space on both sides and top of refrigerator. Mine can be operated in zero inches of dead space. I closed up around the back edges and got a firm seal from the outside (did not close up coils or gas burner).
I then slid the fridge back in to the tighter space. I installed two medium 4 inch cooling fans on the back in place of the super loud single one that came fm factory. I also installed two 5 inch exhaust fans on the upper vent cover with very little space above for heat to get trapped. I removed the plywood baffle that was partially blocking the upper vent. Then ran wiring through the back next to the existing wiring and installed two switches on the front control panel to operate each fan bay.

Fans were high efficiency very low current 12 v fans. Cannot hear them running at all. I know I went overboard but that fridge cools quickly and stays an even 37 degrees. It was a night and day improvement and the exhaust fans activate for approx 2 minutes before shutting off. The other fans only come on when the ambient outside temps reach 95 degrees and shut down after 45 seconds. They will stay off for long periods of time. No more whining fan with continuous run time. No more battery drain, no more 50 degree fridge temps on hot days, no more hot interior cabinets around fridge.....it's refreshing!
__________________

__________________
2014 Windjammer 3025W Diamond 34.5 ft 8300 lbs.
2010 F150 SC XLT 4x4 5.4L, 3.55 gears 20" rims
12 k Equalizer WDH, Firestone Airbags, HD Bilsteins
TST 507RV TPMS
Zolin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2015, 02:01 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Crockett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 833
due to potential flammability, i would advise against styrofoam anywhere in cabinet. fiberglass, though messy, is an excellent flame retardant. the ideal chimney piece is radiused flashing behind the condenser coil at the top curved to the top edge of upper vent. a couple fans, to aid natural convection, mounted in standard location is probably best. flashing best probably installed after unit is in unless you get elaborate. the core contains hydrogen gas. that and the presence of a flame means stay as flame retarded as possible since the core could always develop a leak.
__________________
Crockett is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2015, 07:18 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Witch Doctor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 7,635
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Olson View Post
We have a new Primetime Crusader 295RST. The small cooling fan behind the refrig stays on all the time, no matter if on AC power or LP. We are dry camping for the next 18 days in Florida and seems I have to run our portable generator a couple times a day to keep battery charged. The unit is only two months old. Anyone else with a Crusader and the Norcold have the cooling fan run all the time?
Maybe I need to add a second battery.
Norcold uses a temp sensor located in the top fins. It will only come on when the fins get hot. I epoxied two fans together next to each other on top and used a double spade to hook the second fan up. Taking the baffle out will create better air flow. I also added a third fan in the bottom of the unit also hooked to the top sensor. When they come on it's really for a short time. Also using propane you will create more heat and the fans will come on more. A second battery would help, Not sure where I got this amp usage chart, but I attached it
Attached Files
File Type: docx 12 Volt System.docx (71.0 KB, 23 views)
__________________
Rockwood #8289 WS 2012
F250 6.0 / Husky 16k
With 4 point leveling system
Witch Doctor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2015, 08:41 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Alabama
Posts: 189
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett View Post
due to potential flammability, i would advise against styrofoam anywhere in cabinet. fiberglass, though messy, is an excellent flame retardant. the ideal chimney piece is radiused flashing behind the condenser coil at the top curved to the top edge of upper vent. a couple fans, to aid natural convection, mounted in standard location is probably best. flashing best probably installed after unit is in unless you get elaborate. the core contains hydrogen gas. that and the presence of a flame means stay as flame retarded as possible since the core could always develop a leak.
Even approved foamboard which has a fire rating and foil backing used in home construction to meet fire code? I didn't state that part. The factory trim around the back edges of the fridge enclosure is uneven cut thin plywood with lots of gaps. Don't see how foam insulating board placed on the opposite side of that trim (toward the front of the fridge) in order to close the gaps could put me at higher risk of flames??? Even the sealed gap has pro grade foil tape all around the trim to eliminate exposure.. That being said, I agree the metal flashing at the top would be a more suitable ventilation solution. Sadly, the original install just had the hot air trapped above the top of the cabinet exposed directly to the underside of the roof of the slideout. All that hot air would move up, then backward and get trapped between the roof and the top of the fridge making it very hot. Now most of the dead space is eliminated, I agree about the fiberglass comment but the flame retardant rating was still within range of fiberglass insulation. I got my idea from an earlier posting which had pics, except that install was done with fiberglass insulation with backing around the edges. Thank you for your comment and concern sir.
__________________
2014 Windjammer 3025W Diamond 34.5 ft 8300 lbs.
2010 F150 SC XLT 4x4 5.4L, 3.55 gears 20" rims
12 k Equalizer WDH, Firestone Airbags, HD Bilsteins
TST 507RV TPMS
Zolin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2015, 08:54 AM   #16
Mod free 5er
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett View Post
due to potential flammability, i would advise against styrofoam anywhere in cabinet. fiberglass, though messy, is an excellent flame retardant. the ideal chimney piece is radiused flashing behind the condenser coil at the top curved to the top edge of upper vent. a couple fans, to aid natural convection, mounted in standard location is probably best. flashing best probably installed after unit is in unless you get elaborate. the core contains hydrogen gas. that and the presence of a flame means stay as flame retarded as possible since the core could always develop a leak.
With all the wood around?
__________________
OldCoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2015, 09:43 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Alabama
Posts: 189
I'm guessing most Rockwood installs are done this way, at least on larger units where the fridge is actually in a slideout. Roof vent installs tend to vent much better. The thin uneven plywood encasement around the back edges leave a lot of gaps for LP and heat to enter around the edges.. I would not even consider placing anything beyond those edges in the coil/condenser/burner area of the back of fridge. The install specifications are explicit about this ventilation area needing to be completely open for air movement.
__________________
2014 Windjammer 3025W Diamond 34.5 ft 8300 lbs.
2010 F150 SC XLT 4x4 5.4L, 3.55 gears 20" rims
12 k Equalizer WDH, Firestone Airbags, HD Bilsteins
TST 507RV TPMS
Zolin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2015, 04:08 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Witch Doctor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 7,635
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zolin View Post
Even approved foamboard which has a fire rating and foil backing used in home construction to meet fire code? I didn't state that part. The factory trim around the back edges of the fridge enclosure is uneven cut thin plywood with lots of gaps. Don't see how foam insulating board placed on the opposite side of that trim (toward the front of the fridge) in order to close the gaps could put me at higher risk of flames??? Even the sealed gap has pro grade foil tape all around the trim to eliminate exposure.. That being said, I agree the metal flashing at the top would be a more suitable ventilation solution. Sadly, the original install just had the hot air trapped above the top of the cabinet exposed directly to the underside of the roof of the slideout. All that hot air would move up, then backward and get trapped between the roof and the top of the fridge making it very hot. Now most of the dead space is eliminated, I agree about the fiberglass comment but the flame retardant rating was still within range of fiberglass insulation. I got my idea from an earlier posting which had pics, except that install was done with fiberglass insulation with backing around the edges. Thank you for your comment and concern sir.
I would fill the seems with firer proof caulking same as they use for fire wall penetrations in construction. If you are having a problem with trapped heat at the top in a slide out I would build a scoop to direct it out of the dead area and out the vent. The fan is about 6" below the outlet and coil that would move your air out the vent. And your right units with refers in a slide do not cool as good as a straight vent. That's why extra fans help and the scoop.
__________________
Rockwood #8289 WS 2012
F250 6.0 / Husky 16k
With 4 point leveling system
Witch Doctor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2015, 04:13 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Witch Doctor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 7,635
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett View Post
due to potential flammability, i would advise against styrofoam anywhere in cabinet. fiberglass, though messy, is an excellent flame retardant. the ideal chimney piece is radiused flashing behind the condenser coil at the top curved to the top edge of upper vent. a couple fans, to aid natural convection, mounted in standard location is probably best. flashing best probably installed after unit is in unless you get elaborate. the core contains hydrogen gas. that and the presence of a flame means stay as flame retarded as possible since the core could always develop a leak.
Is Hydrogen gas the same as ammonia?

Is ammonia explosive?

Pure ammonia is difficult to ignite and has a very narrow range of flammability. Ammonia is flammable only at high concentrations and under extremely limited conditions. Ammonia vapor that contains oil or another flammable contaminant can increase the possibility of an explosion. However, ammonia will not sustain a flame on its own; ignition of ammonia vapor requires an uninterrupted external flame source.

Back
__________________
Rockwood #8289 WS 2012
F250 6.0 / Husky 16k
With 4 point leveling system
Witch Doctor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2015, 04:40 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Crockett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 833
ammonia is boiled off of water. water vapor condenses in the top leaving pure ammonia. this is brought into contact with hydrogen gas which is reacts with the ammonia absorbing heat during the reaction. this compound later is brought into contact with water which pulls the ammonia off of the hydrogen and the process repeats...
__________________

__________________
Crockett is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
fan

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:54 AM.