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Old 05-29-2016, 03:01 PM   #11
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I'm no expert, but I believe that the reason they cover the underbelly is for less wind resistance, not to hide shoddy work.
That has to be it... with a trailer about as aerodynamic as a brick... a BiG brick; adding coro they went for a new landspeed record. I'm just having fun!
I'm also no expert, but most people expect the belly to be enclosed and this is the least expensive way to do it. It works quite well... other than mine was sagging and laying on the axles (Oh, there was that!) I took it down, insulated floor and all tanks, water lines and tidied up the loose wiring as well; added some wooden strips, reattached coro and all is well now. After 8K miles pulling it is still there. The only thing I would do differently is to replace the coro with 2" foam board and still may.
WW
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Old 05-29-2016, 03:46 PM   #12
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I did the same thing as Wolf Whistle. The project began as only to add a second freshwater tank, but after finding unsecured wiring, crushed ductwork, dripping water lines and leftover construction debris, I spent last winter doing a total underbelly makeover. I replaced the original plastic sheeting with new sheets of coroplast from Home Depot and installed it in easily removable sections for quick servicing.
It was a great learning experience. I now know where everything is and how it is put together.
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Old 05-29-2016, 03:50 PM   #13
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Hey these days that's the good stuff. The cheaper entry level trailers use a black woven plastic tarp material. I remember our older trailer having galvanized metal. Real solid but weighed a lot too.
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Old 05-29-2016, 03:51 PM   #14
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I did the same thing as Wolf Whistle. The project began as only to add a second freshwater tank, but after finding unsecured wiring, crushed ductwork, dripping water lines and leftover construction debris, I spent last winter doing a total underbelly makeover. I replaced the original plastic sheeting with new sheets of coroplast from Home Depot and installed it in easily removable sections for quick servicing.
It was a great learning experience. I now know where everything is and how it is put together.
x10
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Old 05-29-2016, 04:06 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by WolfWhistle View Post
That has to be it... with a trailer about as aerodynamic as a brick... a BiG brick; adding coro they went for a new landspeed record. I'm just having fun!
I'm also no expert, but most people expect the belly to be enclosed and this is the least expensive way to do it. It works quite well... other than mine was sagging and laying on the axles (Oh, there was that!) I took it down, insulated floor and all tanks, water lines and tidied up the loose wiring as well; added some wooden strips, reattached coro and all is well now. After 8K miles pulling it is still there. The only thing I would do differently is to replace the coro with 2" foam board and still may.
WW
What did you insulate with? I am going to do this to mine also.
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Old 05-29-2016, 04:21 PM   #16
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What did you insulate with? I am going to do this to mine also.
I've attached a couple of photos, I had better but can't find right now.

Reflectix mainly for the floors (stapled it up) and a stickon duct insulation for the tanks. The issue is getting it to stick. You have to get all the mold wax off. Doing it again, I would use 2" foam board to span side to side across the frame rails and Reflectix (or the other stuff I linked) on the floor areas between side wall and frame. With the foam, it would probably not be necessary to insulate tanks. But, would add tank heaters if I planned to do any cold weather camping. I would still insulate the pipes with the standard foam commonly used.

Everbilt 3/4 in. x 6 ft. Foam Pipe Insulation-ORP07812 - The Home Depot

I like this stuff as well and used it in my Mustang... insulates and deadens sound.

UltraTouch 48 in. x 75 ft. Radiant Barrier-30000-11475 - The Home Depot
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Old 05-29-2016, 04:28 PM   #17
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Underbelly cover

Our 5th is the CC 10 anniversary BH model acquired 2010. Those plastic panels half dropped from it this spring and dragged down the highway which damaged them somewhat. A temp fix in Santa Fe cost $$$. I am just about finished a permanent fix (I hope) which includes 6 pieces of angle iron attached to the frame to support the panels. Hopefully that will prevent drop out ever happening again. In retrospect 3 yrs ago I, like the original poster of this thread, thought them a little flimsy to stay in place just sitting on the flange of the I beam frame but didn't do anything about it. I'd have save significant $$ if I'd installed the steel angle supports then. The plastic panels are very tough but are inadequately anchored.
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Old 05-29-2016, 06:31 PM   #18
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The Coroplast under belly is great stuff. The use is lighter than metal , non rusting, and due to the air pockets it is condensation resistant to the heated area. It is very easy to access the area above and resealing it with the special tape provided by Darco. We had in the old days to remove dozens of screws and then pull back the heavy bulky metal to access the under carriage area. At today's labor rates it would cost $200.00 + just to get it out of the way. Some used ABS panels below the tanks and that made access easy.
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Old 05-29-2016, 09:51 PM   #19
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WolfWhistle, Thank you very much. This is a big help.
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Old 05-30-2016, 05:23 AM   #20
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I'm no expert, but I believe that the reason they cover the underbelly is for less wind resistance, not to hide shoddy work.
Yes, AND to protect the under carriage from water during wet weather travel. Also helps with heat retention during cold weather use.
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