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Old 10-13-2013, 07:40 PM   #11
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Ksilvi,I know the cost is high but the kit had all GR5 bolts,pipes had welded machined ends,fabricated brackets,bronze bushings,and machined anchor points.Im a machinist/mechanic by trade and could make everything in the kit but the cost of the material and the time to do it, its well worth $260.00+ tax.I thought the same thing but I was surprised to see the quality of the kit.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:53 PM   #12
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That's good to know! Thank you!
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:48 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by keepaeyeonit View Post
Ksilvi,I know the cost is high but the kit had all GR5 bolts,pipes had welded machined ends,fabricated brackets,bronze bushings,and machined anchor points.Im a machinist/mechanic by trade and could make everything in the kit but the cost of the material and the time to do it, its well worth $260.00+ tax.I thought the same thing but I was surprised to see the quality of the kit.
What did you do about the rear JT's? I'm waiting to get a piece of angle iron to span the width to have a place to fasten them.
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:04 AM   #14
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Exgmtech, I was waiting for the next trip(this weekend) to see if I need them or not,the front of my camper is real high because of the slop of my driveway so I can't tell if I will need them. I already have a Piece of channel to use if need be but I was thinking on mounting them from the center out(side to side) not front to back.Keepaeyeonit
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:51 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by keepaeyeonit View Post
Exgmtech, I was waiting for the next trip(this weekend) to see if I need them or not,the front of my camper is real high because of the slop of my driveway so I can't tell if I will need them. I already have a Piece of channel to use if need be but I was thinking on mounting them from the center out(side to side) not front to back.Keepaeyeonit
yes I was going to do the same but nowhere to attach, that's why I'm going with angle iron...when my son moves around in bed in the bunk room we can feel it in master bdrm.
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:38 PM   #16
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Where can I get those tail lights?!
got mine from carid.com

Bargman brand model # 47-84-610

you will need to add a license lamp as they do not have one.
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Old 11-03-2013, 07:53 PM   #17
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High all,I finely got around to adding the Strong arms to the rear of the camper using a 2"x1"x3/16 channel x76" long with 1/4" flat stock welded to each side to fill the 1/2" gap between the jack mounts and the channel,drilled and tapped so I could remove the channel if needed.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...1&d=1383526173
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...1&d=1383526173
and the 22"TV in the master.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...1&d=1383526293
Thats all for now so take care.Keepaeyeonit
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Old 04-18-2014, 10:16 PM   #18
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Hi all I hope everyone had a good winter,well as you all know(at least us northerners know)Its that time again,I just finished up some more mods on the 335 and were ready for our first trip of the 2014 season next weekend.
1: Replaced the outdoor kitchen sink,faucet and added extra counter space on the drawer.
Sterling #B155-2 sink,Moen #74998 faucet
2:Added LED strip lights around the outdoor kitchen and under cabinets.
Hitlights #LS3528_cw W/dimmer
3: Installed a water filter housing.
GE #GX1SO1C
4:LED multi color strip lights under awning rail.
Hitlights #LS5050_RGB300WP44K (bad controller but have a new one on the way)
5:Replaced bathroom fan.
Hengs Vortexll(not bad but the Fantastic is better)
6:22"LED TV and Blue-ray player in bunkhouse.
Thats all for now but I'm sure theres more to come. Take care and happy campingKeepaeyeonit
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Old 04-18-2014, 10:44 PM   #19
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what a great idea on the drawer cover!!!

Where did you get power from for the 5050's under the awning? I too have a set yet to install.
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:15 AM   #20
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EGMT,I had extra spaces in the power panel so I ran a new power wire for both awning and outdoor kitchen.I ran the wire for the awning lights down the LH rail and drilled through the side right behind the power panel(thats the same way the power for the awning motor is run ),then drilled behind the refrigerator to run the power and control wires,mounted the control box with velcro and ran the IR pickup through the vent,I also added a switch for them, I don't like IR control box having constant power.If the cost isn't to high I will get a set of Dometic wire covers to hide the wire but it blends in good.
I ran the power for the outdoor kitchen under the refrigerator and drilled through the wall under the bottom shelf(you have to stay away from the corner some to clear a small stud)put in a switch and the dimmer,you can turn the lights off with the dimmer but I thinks it's kind of cheap and won't last long if used like that.I like that drawer cover too,I'm glad you thought of it!
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