Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-06-2014, 09:26 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 49
De-Winterizing

De-winterizing my 2014 Lacrosse 327RES today. My dealer did the winterize, so I consulted the owner manual before starting this evolution. Drained the holding tanks and filled the fresh water tank. Turned on the pump and no water flow. The pump was running but was making a much higher pitch sound than normal. Turned off pump and hooked up the "city water connection". Got water flow both hot and cold through all faucets, water flow at toilet too. There is no water in the water heater, even took drain plug out (no water) and still no flow when I try to use the onboard water.

Assume there is a bypass valve(s) somewhere, None identified in any of my books/paperwork. Ideas?
__________________

__________________
OakHillFarm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2014, 10:40 PM   #2
Missing Link
 
cyclepuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Genesee, MI
Posts: 410
Yes there are bypass valves. Usually under a cabinet behind water heater.

Sent from Droid Ultra
__________________

__________________
2014 Puma 30-DBSS
2014 Ram 2500 Mega Cab 6.4L
cyclepuck is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2014, 10:44 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
irishrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 265
I'd check beside the water pump. There is a winterizing hose with a valve - end of hose goes into the antifreeze jug. If that valve is open (turned parallel with the hose) the pump will be sucking air. Close it and try the pump again.
__________________
2014 295rst TE Champagne
09 GMC 2500HD D/A
irishrv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2014, 11:13 PM   #4
Member
 
harpman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Westerville, Ohio
Posts: 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by irishrv View Post
I'd check beside the water pump. There is a winterizing hose with a valve - end of hose goes into the antifreeze jug. If that valve is open (turned parallel with the hose) the pump will be sucking air. Close it and try the pump again.

I had my camper out this weekend to dewinterize..and had to open the door to the pump to turn the valve previously described
__________________
831RESS FLAGSTAFF
F150 FORD ECOBOOST
harpman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 01:17 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
rracer5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Full Timing It
Posts: 1,906
Quote:
Originally Posted by OakHillFarm View Post
De-winterizing my 2014 Lacrosse 327RES today. My dealer did the winterize, so I consulted the owner manual before starting this evolution. Drained the holding tanks and filled the fresh water tank. Turned on the pump and no water flow. The pump was running but was making a much higher pitch sound than normal. Turned off pump and hooked up the "city water connection". Got water flow both hot and cold through all faucets, water flow at toilet too. There is no water in the water heater, even took drain plug out (no water) and still no flow when I try to use the onboard water.

Assume there is a bypass valve(s) somewhere, None identified in any of my books/paperwork. Ideas?

Owners manuals for most RV's are pretty much only good for "generic" info and are the same for several different models.


First locate the water pump (may have to remove an access panel). There should be a short piece of hose (maybe 18 - 24" long) that is used to stick into the gallon of RV antifreeze during winterization. There should be a valve on it. If the dealer left it open, close it (quarter turn, perpendicular to the hose). There should also be a valve on the incoming line to the pump from the fresh water tank (probably goes through the floor nearby), open this valve (it was probably closed by the dealer which is necessary to keep RV antifreeze from going to the fresh water tank during winterization). Now turn on pump. It should run then stop when the pressure builds up. BTW, your pump probably won't run if you have city water hooked up and running.

Now, locate the water heater (again, you may have to remove a panel unless it's in the same location as the water pump). There should be a cold water line going in w/valve (white or blue) and the hot water line coming out w/valve (red) and a line between them w/valve. During winterization, the "in" and "out" valves are closed and the one between them (bypass) is opened.
These valves must be reversed to fill and use the hot water tank (open the "in" and "out" valves and close the "bypass valve).

Go outside to the water heater and replace the drain plug (anode rod in some cases) and turn on the hot water in the sink. The water heater should start filling. Open the relief valve until water "just starts to spit out" then close it. Water should now be running in your sink. Turn on the propane and see if the water heater lights and burns clean (blue flame) then turn it off. Next, flip on the electric side of the water heater (once the tank is full). If you have hot water in 10 - 15 minutes, you are good to go.

Geeez! After looking back, I hope I wasn't too long winded or over detailed.

Now, go have a good time
__________________
"PT Crew Members Since 9/2010"[/I][/B]
2011 RAM 2500 HD 6.7L CTD Crew
2014 Sanibel 3250
rracer5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 01:43 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Dbt803's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Peekskill, NY
Posts: 371
Perfect account-thank you. Just what I needed to know.
Debbie
__________________
Debbie
"Midnight Pearl" - 2011 Berkshire 390 BH
Dbt803 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 06:52 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 49
Thanks to all! I spoke to the dealer today and found out the waterheater bypass valves are behind a panel under the stereo at the rear of the camper. The water pump and winterize hose/valves are behind a panel inside the kitchen cabinet. It is all quite simple once you know where to look. This information should have been part of the new owner walkthrough, in my opinion.
__________________
OakHillFarm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 08:48 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
rracer5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Full Timing It
Posts: 1,906
A good PDI tech should have gone over every appliance and showed you EVERY other function on any new (to you) unit. He should get an idea of your experience and proceed through his presentation accordingly, showing you how everything inside and outside the TT functions. Oh, and he should have "tested" everything before you arrived. IMHO, sounds like 1 of 3 things happened; 1- He didn't care or was new and took too many assumptions that you know, 2- He rushed because he has other work to complete before quittin' time or, 3- He is allotted only a certain amount of time to do his PDI and walk you through it.

Too many times, too many dealers fall into one or all of these catagories, it's sad. It only leads to frustration when after you drag it home then take it out for what you thought was going to be a nice weekend, you keep finding things wrong, broken and/or missing and falling apart necessitating a trip back to the dealer where they'll keep it for weeks on end to fix things that should have been caught (and fixed) before you even got there. And, even if you notice something during your PDI, he should fix it or if it's too involved, make sure it's noted and/or the parts ordered before you leave (and get a copy of what they owe you) (a "We Owe List"). I was given one once our 4 hour PDI was completed on our new 5er.
__________________
"PT Crew Members Since 9/2010"[/I][/B]
2011 RAM 2500 HD 6.7L CTD Crew
2014 Sanibel 3250
rracer5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 08:54 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
davel1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Seaford, De
Posts: 2,317
you'll learn way more and get more accurate information on here than from what you get from some no-talent, doesn't get paid enough to care PDI tech
__________________
David & Lynn
2014 Coachmen Chaparral Signature 327 RLKS
2016 Ford F350 Lariat CC Dually
davel1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2014, 09:03 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
rracer5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Full Timing It
Posts: 1,906
Quote:
Originally Posted by davel1971 View Post
you'll learn way more and get more accurate information on here than from what you get from some no-talent, doesn't get paid enough to care PDI tech

You're right, I think we just did that!
__________________

__________________
"PT Crew Members Since 9/2010"[/I][/B]
2011 RAM 2500 HD 6.7L CTD Crew
2014 Sanibel 3250
rracer5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
winter, winterize

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:20 AM.