Fresh tank overfilling

[esmoglo]

On a 30 day trip now and when I leave the RV for extended periods of time I always turn off the water. Today I came back turned it on used water inside and went on doing other things. When I came outside I found water pouring out of the bottom of the docking station, looked inside & found water coming out of the fresh water fill. Freshwater tank was half-full before I got to my campground, now the tank is so full it's flowing out of the fill. Why is this happening? Need advice.....

Unit is a 2016 Prine Time Crusader 296BHS

[fonzie]

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ill-82721.html

[Flybob]

The back flow valve in the water pump is not seated properly.
Shut off public water.
Run water in unit until it stops ( no pressure in system)
Turn on water pump a
open a faucet and run water for a minute or two.
Close faucet and shut off water pump
turn public water back on


This should re-seat the back flow valve. It is best not to ever leave water pump on when connected to public water.

[esmoglo]

Yes it was pouring out of the freshwater feel tank were the cap screws in. Tank meter inside shows full when I had 1/3 in the tank.

[richp]

Hi,

Just a guess here, but couldn't this present a particular hazard when a rig has a direct hose connection for filling a tank -- not an open port for dumping water in for filling?

That's because the overflow tube from the fresh water tank is much smaller -- and with less capacity -- than the input from the hose filling the tank. A valve stuck in this manner could pressurize the fresh water tank and cause it to bulge.

Just asking...

Rich Phillips

[5picker]

Originally Posted by richp

Hi,

Just a guess here, but couldn't this present a particular hazard when a rig has a direct hose connection for filling a tank -- not an open port for dumping water in for filling?

That's because the overflow tube from the fresh water tank is much smaller -- and with less capacity -- than the input from the hose filling the tank. A valve stuck in this manner could pressurize the fresh water tank and cause it to bulge.

Just asking...

Rich Phillips

Yes it could.

[esmoglo]

Drained a bit out of the tank shows 3/4 full hasn't happened again. I leave both gray valves open, black tank closed, and turn off the water when I leave the RV. All I did yesterday is come back turn the water on and went about my business no idea what would cause the tank to fill up to the point it overflows out of the gravity fill cap. Must be some kind of switch mechanism or something.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by esmoglo

Drained a bit out of the tank shows 3/4 full hasn't happened again. I leave both gray valves open, black tank closed, and turn off the water when I leave the RV. All I did yesterday is come back turn the water on and went about my business no idea what would cause the tank to fill up to the point it overflows out of the gravity fill cap. Must be some kind of switch mechanism or something.

Did you read flybob's post #3?

[esmoglo]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Did you read flybob's post #3?

Oops no I'm on this iPhone miss my PC will go back & read, thanks.

[BandJCarm]

Originally Posted by richp

Hi,

Just a guess here, but couldn't this present a particular hazard when a rig has a direct hose connection for filling a tank -- not an open port for dumping water in for filling?

That's because the overflow tube from the fresh water tank is much smaller -- and with less capacity -- than the input from the hose filling the tank. A valve stuck in this manner could pressurize the fresh water tank and cause it to bulge.

Just asking...

Rich Phillips

I can dang sure guarantee that's right! Do not ask me how I know!

[BandJCarm]

And Rich, that's why the factory doesn't put the strong metal or wood supports that many here wish they would. Those would surely make traveling easier, for sure. But if the error you mention occurred WHILE those strong supports are installed, then the floor would buckle.........much worse than a bulging tank. Agree or not, that's their reasoning.

[richp]

Hi BandJcarm,

Out of curiosity, when that happened to you, what actually occurred, and was there any permanent damage?

I have actually worried a bit about this, and try not to get distracted while filling my tank. I have the siphoning problem, which I hope to get fixed at the Rally.

Thanks.

Rich Phillips

[BandJCarm]

Originally Posted by richp

Hi BandJcarm,

Out of curiosity, when that happened to you, what actually occurred, and was there any permanent damage?

I have actually worried a bit about this, and try not to get distracted while filling my tank. I have the siphoning problem, which I hope to get fixed at the Rally.

Thanks.

Rich Phillips

So you're gonna make me tell this in public? LOL

No permanent damage. Too much water.......warped tank and straps broke and supports twisted. Had to get new tank, new straps, new supports.

Had dealer winterize trailer last fall. Sat in driveway all winter. Assumed (wrong!!!) FW tank was empty. He had left it full!!! I began to fill it, walked away for what I thought was reasonable time........and it went kablooie. Dealer fixed it all, but took new parts.

I'm about to get one of these and hook it inline. Then I KNOW how much water is being put in. Even with this I guess I'd have still assumed the tank was empty. But this makes sense, to know what I'm putting in.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMFYNSY...=18F1G1TX9WDP1

[esmoglo]

Originally Posted by Flybob

The back flow valve in the water pump is not seated properly.
Shut off public water.
Run water in unit until it stops ( no pressure in system)
Turn on water pump a
open a faucet and run water for a minute or two.
Close faucet and shut off water pump
turn public water back on


This should re-seat the back flow valve. It is best not to ever leave water pump on when connected to public water.

Yea I never leave the pump on I did the reset technique & it worked for 6-7 days and today it happened again. Haven't run the water pump at all. Guess I need a new back flow valve?

[esmoglo]

Anyone?

[NMWildcat]

Usually the back flow preventer/check valve is part of the pump. I would just replace the pump at this point.

[esmoglo]

Thanks for the reply I appreciate it.

Sent Prime Time an email & got a response saying the water pumps by pass valve is malfunctioning causing the fresh water tank to fill. So I will source a new pump & fix it myself it looks simple enough.

[dougk53]

Before you go buying a new pump take the face of the pump off where the electrical connections are clipped on. Inside you will find the diaphragms for the water pump. Remove and clean thoroughly as they might be gunked up from antifreeze. Replace and try again. Since it is a new trailer you can probably refer to the exploded parts diagram in your paperwork for the trailer to better comprehend. You can use a mild bleach and water solution to clean as you would when cleaning the water system. Cleaning the tank and water system a few times a year like this will go a long way to prevent reoccurrence.
Installing an inline shutoff valve after the outlet side of the pump will prevent this from happening again.
If you should replace the pump you stand a better than even chance that the bypass and pressure adjustments will be incorrect and the new pump will have low pressure or not shut off or cycle too frequently causing sporadic water pressure. You would then have to reset these to achieve correct flow.
Been there twice through the years and most recently within the last week while on a trip.
Good luck.

Doug

[esmoglo]

Doug thanks for the reply.

1)Gunked up from antifreeze: as far as I can tell the unit was built & transported to LA then FL never been up north for a winter, purchased the unit new.

2)I will take out the Diaphragm & clean it never know we have hard water in FL anything's possible.

3)Installing an inline shut off valve after the outlet side of the pump will prevent this from happening again. Yes, I would like to do this how did you do it? Need as much info as possible.

[dougk53]

After the outlet there will probably be a white reinforced hose that is pliable. You can go to any decent RV place and ask for a shutoff valve for the outlet hose, they will know the correct size. You need 2 hose clamps of the appropriate size to secure the valve after cutting the hose on the pump to insert the shutoff.
All my plumbing connections are readily accessible through an outside compartment door which makes access to the shutoff a snap. If yours is not easily accessible you can also use an inline backflow preventer.
If by chance you have hard Pex tubing connected to the pump you will need to cut the crimp connectors off with a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and replace with flexible tubing.
Good luck.

Doug