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Old 08-16-2013, 07:03 PM   #1
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getting close to winterize

I have a 2013 325 RES Crusader. winterizing the old Dutchman was a breeze, turned 3 valves that were inside and suck the RV antifreeze. now that i have a nice big fiver it looks like I will have to crawl up inside the belly after taking off the thin board to get to the valves. I was just wondering if this is the only way I can see to turn the valves, am I missing something? I'm not as limber as i was years ago, this could get to be a pain in the you know what. I don't want to have to pay a dealer to have a young kid crawl up and turn the valves so they can put the antifreeze in it. Any body have an easier way to turn the valves or do I do I have to get up in the belly of the beast?
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:04 AM   #2
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Did you ever get the answer to your question? Seems like.. it might be a bite the bullet type thing( Pay some one to do it ) ..if.. you cant crawl into that area behind the panel to reach the valves
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Old 09-28-2013, 08:12 AM   #3
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I did not get answer so last weekend climbed inside, turned valves and winterized. Wish PT would spend $2.00 more in tubing and extend valves so we didn't have to climb inside storage area. Other than that only took 10 minutes. Thanks for checking to see if I got response.
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:32 AM   #4
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Ok...I will be winterizing mine for the first time soon ...So..i will be crawling in there ..to do the same..
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:44 PM   #5
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I cut the basement wall at the vertical support, cut and recovered the wood with the same material. Now I only have to remove 4 screws to remove the small section of wall and reach in to access the bypass valves at the back of the hot water tank. No more climbing into the basement to remove that complete wall.
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:48 PM   #6
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The valves for my trailer are inside under the fridge .

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Old 09-29-2013, 07:28 PM   #7
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Yea my old TT was very easy, inside next to fridge. Now that I moved up I gave to crawl inside. Something's not right with that.
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Old 10-05-2013, 08:20 PM   #8
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I also have a 325 res. I am planning to winterize it for the first time. I never had a black tank flush system in the past. Is there anything special i need to do to the inlet valve. I thought about pumping some antifreeze through the outside faucet into the flush system. I tried to flush the tank at a state park and the pump in the rv doesn't have enough pressue to push the water into the tank.
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Old 10-06-2013, 03:18 AM   #9
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I will be using a air compressor.... set at 30 psi.. and blow out the black tank flush line first.
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:18 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by ntrlz View Post
I also have a 325 res. I am planning to winterize it for the first time. I never had a black tank flush system in the past. Is there anything special i need to do to the inlet valve. I thought about pumping some antifreeze through the outside faucet into the flush system. I tried to flush the tank at a state park and the pump in the rv doesn't have enough pressue to push the water into the tank.
Your pump must be (Bad) or you need to hook up to a (Water or Air source of 40PSI) and try agin. After it is flowing,pump Pink A/F in using your outside shower. Youroo!! PA watch for (Tadpole Rally) info on the (Rally Zone)!
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:33 PM   #11
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UDS winterizing access made simple

I got tired of taking those 4 screws out and putting them back in, so I mounted the basement access panel with a hinge and thumb screw release.
Works great - no tools.

Going into storage today.

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Old 10-15-2013, 05:50 PM   #12
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How does the winterizing with "air" work? Is there some sort of adapter needed to hook up an airline to pressurize the water system? Via the "city water" connection, I guess? This does sound preferable to filling the system with antifreeze.
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:52 PM   #13
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Did ours today - drained the water heater, blew out all the lines with the air compressor (including the toilet and the outside shower). Tomorrow, I put the oil-filled radiator in the corridor between the toilet and the master bedroom and set it up with the thermostat.

I have a digital plug-in thermostat and hook it up through a Kill-a Watt meter, so I can see how much power I burn to keep the living area above freezing. I also have an indoor/outdoor temperature gauge. I leave the "outdoor" transducer inside the RV and have the 'indoor" display in the den. I can keep tabs on how cold the RV interior gets.

Last season, the Kill-o-watt meter showed we'd used about 20 KW hrs keeping the interior above freezing for three months, I think that's a small price to pay to be sure nothing in the rig's interior will freeze. The inside temperature gauge never went below 38F despite several days with ambient temps in the 20's overnight. Daytime highs below about 38 are very rare here, which is one of the reasons we live here!
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:58 PM   #14
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How does the winterizing with "air" work? Is there some sort of adapter needed to hook up an airline to pressurize the water system? Via the "city water" connection, I guess? This does sound preferable to filling the system with antifreeze.
You need one of these.

Camco Blow Out Plug

And something like this.

1 4" NPT Brass Air Chuck with Clip Ball Tire Inflator Home Business Automotive | eBay
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:23 PM   #15
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Ford Idaho - Thanks for the information. I think this looks preferable to the whole antifreeze in the water lines scenario. I also like the suggestion above regarding the oil filled radiator to safely and cheaply maintain a little heat in the unit over the winter. Mine will be stored inside my pole barn so it does not get quite as cold as sitting outside so I think this combination should work.

In years past the barn has stayed warm enough overnight to melt most of the snow off of my truck so it should be fairly easy to keep the camper above freezing.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:41 PM   #16
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You are welcome, but I can not take credit for the idea.
I do like the air chuck that I posted because it will lock on to the valve stem making it a one person job.
If you go this route be sure to use only 30-35 PSI output from your air compressor.
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:52 AM   #17
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Winterizing our 2014 Crusader 325RES

We also just recently winterized our rig. I had to crawl into the storage compartment and could barely reach the bypass valves in the inconvenient location!!

FYI - a quick look at the dealer website where we got our unit showed several 2014 models on the lot and when you look at the pictures of those units, several of the NEW 2014 models have the improved water heater bypass system clearly shown in the docking center!!! How aggravating to know that some of the early 2014 models were put together with the rotten set up and then they changed production on the next ones.....

Oh well, we still like the rig and are looking forward to next camping season already - counting the days till April 1, 2014
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Old 11-02-2013, 09:59 AM   #18
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I am so glad I live in a area where I do not have to winterize. Can use it year around, but I do have to put up with California.

Wayne and Donna
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:26 AM   #19
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winterizing 325RES

We have an earlier 2014 version of the 325RES with the unhandy winterizing valves located on the backside of the water heater that cannot be reached unless you crawl into the storage compartment....

NOW the recent 2014 325RES have a winterizing bypass setup at the docking station - guess we should have waited to buy a month later....pictures are showing up on dealer websites
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:36 AM   #20
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We have an earlier 2014 version of the 325RES with the unhandy winterizing valves located on the backside of the water heater that cannot be reached unless you crawl into the storage compartment....

NOW the recent 2014 325RES have a winterizing bypass setup at the docking station - guess we should have waited to buy a month later....pictures are showing up on dealer websites
There will always be something newer and better. When the 2015s start coming out, there will be little changes that you wish you had. And when the later 2015s come out, there will be more tweaks.

I hear your frustration- but I can honestly say that I appreciate it from Forest River. They listen to us and our complaints and try to address them. I sent a list of 18 things to Sabre and I can honestly say, the newer models of my camper have a good 15 of them either standard or as options.
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