Ghosts in the RV. Help needed with water heater and battery.

BubbaTex · 03-03-2012, 08:31 PM

Second outing in our new toy. Everything seemed to be going smoothly. DW went to wash some dishes and realized she only had about 20 seconds of hot water. Checked the panel and it was set to heat from electric. Checked the battery and the panel showed the battery appeared completely dead. I switched the hot water heater over to gas and went out to ensure it fired up and it did. As I was typing this message all the lights in the TT went high brightness and now the panel says the battery is fully charged.we still have no to water but are hopefully this sudden electrical ghost will solve the problem soon. When my wife switched the bedroom light is when everything seemed to change. Does anyone have any ideas at all?? We took this trip simply to work out any bugs. We have a 7 day trip planned for the end of march and certainly don't want these trouble while at the grand canyon.

rracer5 · 03-03-2012, 09:57 PM

Ok....tell us;
1 - How long you have been hooked up to shore power?
2 - Is the Tv working?
3 - Does the microwave work?
4 - Are you using the AC?
5 - What lights were you using or do you have a regular house lamp plugged in?

Sounds like there was or is a loose connection somewhere? CG power was lost?

BubbaTex · 03-03-2012, 10:30 PM

Unit was plugged in while in storage. Battery showed 100% when we left. Unit is still plugged into shore power. We are watching a movie and eating freshly popped pop corn from the microwave. Battery reports dead on the panel. Lights have dimmed again. Ht water heater is hot to the touch. Hot water comes out for about 10 seconds then goes cold.

PrairieBoy · 03-03-2012, 10:44 PM

On your hot water heater, are there 2 valves for the bypass and are both of them open.

Dave_Monica · 03-03-2012, 10:48 PM

It sounds like a converter problem. When plugged into 110V, the converter should supply a constant 12+ volts for your lighting and battery charging. The part that doesn't fit is what's happening with the water heater. You said that the water heater is on propane, correct?

Are you on a city water connection or running the water pump from the fresh water tank?

Dave

PrairieBoy · 03-03-2012, 10:52 PM

It almost sounds like as the hot water heater gets hot, and hot water expands back into the line, that this is the hot water he is getting for a couple of seconds. But I can't think of any combination of valves being off and on that would allow this

grhodes50 · 03-03-2012, 10:55 PM

I can't help you on the electric part, but it sounds like your bypass valve is open. If the bypass vavle is open it allows the cold water to mix with the hot coming out of your tank. You normally will get hot water at first, then it will turn warm or cool.

The bypass valve is located on a line the connects the cold water line (going into the bottom of the hot water tank) to the hot water line (coming out at the top of your hot water tank). The valve should be closed, turned crossways to the line.

Just to note, you will also have valves on the cold and hot water lines. These are apparently in the correct position since you are getting water throughout the tt.
There are also a couple of valves near your water pump. These are for use when winterizing.

BubbaTex · 03-03-2012, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PrairieBoy

On your hot water heater, are there 2 valves for the bypass and are both of them open.

You are correct and I'm showing how new I am to all of this. Opened second valve and walla! We have hot water.

Then...... Boom, lights just got bright again and battery shows full charge.... However I don't think a valve bring closed suddenly fixed the electrical problem. There are two issues. One solved. Thanks for the tip.

BubbaTex · 03-03-2012, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grhodes50

I can't help you on the electric part, but it sounds like your bypass valve is open. If the bypass vavle is open it allowss the cold water to mix with the hot coming out of your tank. You normally will get hot water at first, then it will turn warm or cool.

The bypass valve is located on a line the connects the cold water line (going into the bottom of the hot water tank) to the hot water line (coming out at the top of your hot water tank). The valve should be closed, turned crossways to the line.

Just to note, you will also have valves on the cold and hot water lines. These are apparently in the correct position since you are getting water throughout the tt.
There are also acouple of valves near your water pump. These are for use when winterizing.

Yes sir. As usual you are correct. My first winterization and first dewinterization.. Lol. Now solve my electrical problem would ya?

PrairieBoy · 03-03-2012, 11:04 PM

I've had trailers with 1 bypass valve and 2 bypass valves but forgot that some may have 3 bypass valves. Glad that problem is solved. On your electrical trouble I'm leaning towards a converter trouble as was previously mentioned.

rracer5 · 03-03-2012, 11:04 PM

Glad you got the water problem solved. But, it definitely sounds like you may have a bad converter or at best, maybe just a loose connection at the converter or a loose ground somewhere.

Sorry I can't be more help.

grhodes50 · 03-03-2012, 11:05 PM

I'm not much help with electrical problems, but the first thing I would do is check my batteries connections.
Are they tight?
Do they need cleanning?

rracer5 · 03-03-2012, 11:06 PM

Just thought of something.......check the battery connections!!!! Could be as simple at a loose terminal.

rracer5 · 03-03-2012, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grhodes50

I'm not much help with electrical problems, but the first thing I would do is check my batteries connections.
Are they tight?
Do they need cleanning?

Great minds alike a think!

BubbaTex · 03-03-2012, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rracer5

Just thought of something.......check the battery connections!!!! Could be as simple at a loose terminal.

I checked that hours ago. It was my first thought actually because I had just replace the bolts with wing nuts. It's kind of like the electrical system is allowing the battery to drop below its dropping out point and then the converter kicks on.

caper · 03-03-2012, 11:10 PM

When the lights were dim was the tv and any 120 volt items turned on and working?

BubbaTex · 03-03-2012, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caper

When the lights were dim was the tv and any 120 volt items turned on and working?

Yes sir. TV has been on constant.

rracer5 · 03-03-2012, 11:38 PM

I would still check everything tomorrow related to the battery, cables, connections in the daylight. Check all your "crimps" on the battery terminals. Seems like a strange coincidence that it started after you swaped out the terminal nuts with wing nuts. Maybe something was disturbed. "Wiggle" the cables and ask the DW to let you know if the lights flicker or dim.

BubbaTex · 03-03-2012, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rracer5

I would still check everything tomorrow related to the battery, cables, connections in the daylight. Check all your "crimps" on the battery terminals. Seems like a strange coincidence that it started after you swaped out the terminal nuts with wing nuts. Maybe something was disturbed. "Wiggle" the cables and ask the DW to let you know if the lights flicker or dim.

Will do. And will let you know. Thanks for your help.

BubbaTex · 03-04-2012, 01:37 PM

Well... I checked everything out this morning and I cannot get it to duplicate in any way.. Wiggle wires everywhere, I even completely unscrewed the wing nuts and wiggled the cables with no effect. Battery shows 100% charge.

I have to take it into the shop for a few minor issues before we take it to the Grand Canyon at the end of the month anyway, I will let them try to duplicate the problem.

On another note, I cannot stress enough to anyone and everyone how amazing PT customer service is. Recieved a PM from a ummm rather known member of the forum offering assistance. This has to be one of the last companies left in the US that actually gets what Customer Service means.

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