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Old 04-16-2015, 07:34 PM   #21
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looks like the screw was sticking outand broke when the slide was put in. chances are part of the screw is still deep inside, thats why you can,t put another one in. sealing it will be fine. if you are confident you could drill another hole about 2inches beside it and add another simular screw and add some white paint too match.
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:00 PM   #22
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Surely it does not require a screw, Q A would have caught an error so blatant!On a more serious note it looks as though the head has come off and got scrapped causing the mark gouged into the trim.
I was thinking the same thing about QA catching it - Not.
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:17 PM   #23
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Would you guys worry about the exposed fiberglass and the wood it attaches to? you can cleary see its exposed even when i screw the trim down. i might add an extra screw closer to the end.. it should seal that down tighter, but im afraid to make it worse.. this trim still allows water to hit that fiberglass wood backing... and guys, i suffer from OCD, which is why i worry about things that maybe I shouldnt worry about.. I am positive i can fix the trim with butyl tape tomorrow and a bead of silicone, but it still doesnt completly cover that exposed fiberglass and backing and I know once that gets wet im screwed..instant delamination..
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:24 PM   #24
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I would seal the wood with Acrylic or similar water proofing.
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:29 PM   #25
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Would you guys worry about the exposed fiberglass and the wood it attaches to? you can cleary see its exposed even when i screw the trim down. i might add an extra screw closer to the end.. it should seal that down tighter, but im afraid to make it worse.. this trim still allows water to hit that fiberglass wood backing... and guys, i suffer from OCD, which is why i worry about things that maybe I shouldnt worry about.. I am positive i can fix the trim with butyl tape tomorrow and a bead of silicone, but it still doesnt completly cover that exposed fiberglass and backing and I know once that gets wet im screwed..instant delamination..
Calm down about the screw.

You should be more worried about re greasing your wheel bearings and making sure that the brakes are adjusted correctly. out a sealant over the screw head and let it go...
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:34 PM   #26
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Calm down about the screw.

You should be more worried about re greasing your wheel bearings and making sure that the brakes are adjusted correctly. Put a sealant over the screw head and let it go...
X2!
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:38 PM   #27
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Its not the screw im worried about Brother LES, Its the exposed fiberglass and the wood backing of the fiberglass... its exposed even when this trim is exposed.. im wondering if there is a way to protect that exposed wood that you can cleary see...im sure its getting wet when it rains.. that end of the trim is not sealing completly down even with a screw there.. thats what im worried about.. i just dont want rain water hitting that fiberglass wood and then delmaniation. but i also hate to take this to dealer if its an easy fix on my own..this is where im torn.. and looking for suggestions... how do i protect that wood that you can see?
im shocked that primetime has not caught on to this... there is no way that the trim without silicon protects the bottom of the fiberglass... its clearly exposed with the trim..... thanks again folks..this board is great.
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:52 PM   #28
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Since you have pulled the trim back/off it could be loose. Would not want it to get caught in the slid frame when you put the slide in. Get a number 8 x 3/4 inch self tapping stainless steal screw and put in with a pistil drill. Put it in about 1 inch away from old hole as the head probably broke off as others have said. The head may have broke off at factory due to over torque. New screw should be fine. That is what the dealer would probably do with the exception of the stainless. They would use a normal screw so you could watch the head rust.

Get a box of screws. You will find a use for them before you are done with the trailer.
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Old 04-17-2015, 09:43 AM   #29
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I think im more comfortable

letting my dealer do this... Alpin Haus is a very known company in this area. I suffer OCD and would constantly question my work if i attempted it.. I am really not good at fixing things. I cant imagine this taking the dealers techs more then 1 hour to fix and im sure they will make sure its sealed up correct and use the correct stuff.. I will suggest when i show it to shop manager about putting another screw towards the end to get this flush..
I also asked him about the darco tape that is fraying around that area also. he said they fix this by gorilla tape and they never get the campers back.. RVGUY says the bottom wood is waterproof already and that darco tape on the edge is just added protection... now i just wonder how much the dealer is gonna set me back... but even if its a couple hundred dollars, its worth it to me for piece of mind... I also sent pictures to rick at PT... maybe they will chime in on this and help cover some of the cost...who knows...warranty ended last year...
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Old 04-17-2015, 09:58 AM   #30
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I think you SHOULD take it back to dealer to help calm your mind down and let them fix it . It's not a big fix but I feel you would be more confinite having them do it.
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:11 AM   #31
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Yankeeslover, I'm building a teardrop trailer from scratch. It is all wood. The wood is protected with multiple coats of Minwax spar. As a thought if you want to really protect that wood you could brush on 4 or 5 coats of spar. That will protect the wood from water. Some builders use epoxy to seal their teardrops as well. Both methods work. Just a thought.
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Old 04-17-2015, 11:02 AM   #32
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OK, thanks for all the replys here.. I have another question, i noticed that behind the rubber wiper on each side of slide, there is a vertical roller that these screws pass by whenever slide is operated... both of these rollers are chewed out by where the screws are...i am not sure what these side rollers do, or if that is even a concern.. but you can see that over the course of two years and probalby 30 someodd slide movements both rollers on the side of the slide have chew marks in them from the screws passing by.. anyone else notice this?
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:54 AM   #33
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vertical rollers? I dont recall having any on my tracer 2670. Had some rollers under the slide. Could they be cable pulleys?
Can you take some pics?
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Old 04-18-2015, 07:08 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by yankeeslover View Post
Its not the screw im worried about Brother LES, Its the exposed fiberglass and the wood backing of the fiberglass... its exposed even when this trim is exposed.. im wondering if there is a way to protect that exposed wood that you can cleary see...im sure its getting wet when it rains.. that end of the trim is not sealing completly down even with a screw there.. thats what im worried about.. i just dont want rain water hitting that fiberglass wood and then delmaniation. but i also hate to take this to dealer if its an easy fix on my own..this is where im torn.. and looking for suggestions... how do i protect that wood that you can see?
im shocked that primetime has not caught on to this... there is no way that the trim without silicon protects the bottom of the fiberglass... its clearly exposed with the trim..... thanks again folks..this board is great.

Hello Yankee,

I just wanted to add a few words about the wood. I understand your concerns but they are misplaced. If you were to view the popup's made by FR, you would see that the entire floor is exposed wood. There is nothing covering the wood under the pop up to protect it from road spray during driving in the rain. FR recommends keeping it exposed so that the wood will be able to breath and dry out when it can. The same principle would apply here. You want a way for moisture to escape to allow proper drying. That trim piece is more for aesthetics than protection.

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Old 04-18-2015, 10:07 AM   #35
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Never had a popup with bare wood underneath. Always had a black treatment on the wood to seal it.
3 starcraft pups never a floor problem.
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Old 04-18-2015, 05:29 PM   #36
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My 1977 Bonair pop up had exposed wood, marine grade plywood. It was 30 years old when I had it and the wood was just fine. Completely exposed, uncovered; the way it was intended to be. Exposed wood is not always an issue.
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Old 04-18-2015, 06:29 PM   #37
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that screw holds on the trim and and joins the walls, just replace...no worries...not a big deal
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