Thanks RV Guy for the jacking information. I have already purchased a 8 ton bottle jack. I placed the bottle jack on some 8" x 8" x 1-1/2" wood blocks that I normally use under the stabilizer pads. The stacking of these blocks gave me the height requirement for the jack's piston stroke to do its job. I positioned the jack (and blocks) just rear of the tire to be removed and directly under the frame, staying clear of piping and wiring. I encountered no problems raising the tire off the ground. Yes the equalizers do allow the wheels to drop somewhat, but if the jack combined with riser blocks can provide sufficient hydraulic piston stroke length, the wheel can be freed of the pavement.
Rather than stacking blocks, in the future I'm thinking of making a dedicated bottle jack stand of the right height that can also store the bottle jack within its frame. The design of this riser stand will be very similar to that of a typical adjustable jack stand. I'll fabricate it from angle iron, the top of the riser will have a "tray " (of sorts) that will securely capture the bottle jack. There will be no provisions to make height adjustments, it will be built for the dedicated purpose .
When I get around to making this riser, I'll post pictures. I am also considering making a bottle riser system for those that do not have access to a welder. It will utilize the aforementioned wooden blocks, incorporating a simple pin method for safely securing the bottle jack and the other stacked blocks. Then same blocks could do double duty and also serve as stabilizer load pads.