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Old 05-05-2014, 03:56 PM   #21
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Look at this link--it shows how to remove the motor from the inside or outside:



Good luck!
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Old 05-05-2014, 04:05 PM   #22
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Just to clarify - on pre 2011 or '12 slides, the motor was accessible from the inside or the outside and it had an electric brake, so pushing it with total power removed was an option.

The current version has a different motor AND a securing screw facing OUTWARDS - hence the outside access is absolutely essential to change the motor - and it cannot be manually moved without disengaging the motor.

Lippert's on-line store has motors, and I suspect my model is $249 (+ 15% CDN exchange + International Shipping) one.

Bob
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Old 05-05-2014, 04:50 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by aubries View Post
Look at this link--it shows how to remove the motor from the inside or outside:...
This sounded like good news until I watched the video - actually I watched this video 3 times as it appears to contradict what the service Tech told me. If you watch carefully, you'll see that he removes the motor from OUTSIDE the coach and then goes INSIDE the coach to replace the motor.

Go to 0:58 mins into the video where he says "remove the motor screw located here" and points to the OUTSIDE part of the assembly (right where the narrow access cover was located for withdrawing the OLD motor from outside the coach). He then rotates it 180 degrees and shows the motor being withdrawn from the INSIDE. Notice that the slideout is 1/2 open in the video.

This might seem like a big improvement to Lippert so the bulk of the work can be done INSIDE, but without removing the locking screw on the other side of the motor, it's pointless.

I know you are trying to help, but the further I delve into this the more complex it gets.

Thanks
Bob
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Old 05-05-2014, 05:12 PM   #24
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The saga continues. Prime Time just phoned me and Roger Stickel and "Rick from engineering" reviewed the problem.

Conclusions:
1) The slideout must be open OR you must drill a hole in the slide flange large enough to release the motor securing securing screw.
2) You need to locate the position of the securing screw by sliding fingers between the weather seals for about 3 1/2" and then back towards the motor!
3) The slideout flanges cannot be removed with the slide closed as they are right-angled and screwed to the side of the slide.
4) Lacrosse designers did NOT provide emergency access to the slide motors, and did NOT specify an exact mounting height so the security screw position varies.
5) There are 2 types of motor and VIN # cannot determine which was used. The motor with a Gold coloured base has a 500:1 gearbox, the Silver one is 300:1.

I think I have all I need to start this repair - except for the motivation . I'd planned to spend all May camping in Bancroft and riding my motorcycles on the great roads and off-road trails in E Ontario and now I'll be hindered by the process of finding which motor I need and getting one shipped to Ontario. (IDEA: I could ride my bike to Indiana and pick one up )
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:43 PM   #25
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Drill a hole in the slide flange ?? You gotta take pics / video to share with us of the repair process.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:31 PM   #26
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Drill a hole in the slide flange ?? ....
Yes, I was floored when Rick told me that.

I just returned from a trip to the winter storage lot, and found that the gap at the slideout flange is about 1/4". It's impossible to do step 2) above.

I guess it's going to take a big hole in the slideout flange to ensure you can actually reach it. PT's suggestion was to discard the flange after the repair, and fit a new one while the slide is open. I think I'd rather buy a white rubber grommet - like the ones on the power nose jack - and cut the hole so it would fit afterwards.

I appreciated PT's honest answers to this problem, but I think it's a gross oversight for Engineering not to provide an access cover on the slideout when it's known that the motor requires specific access to replace it.

Bob
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:39 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Yes, I was floored when Rick told me that.

I just returned from a trip to the winter storage lot, and found that the gap at the slideout flange is about 1/4". It's impossible to do step 2) above.

I guess it's going to take a big hole in the slideout flange to ensure you can actually reach it. PT's suggestion was to discard the flange after the repair, and fit a new one while the slide is open. I think I'd rather buy a white rubber grommet - like the ones on the power nose jack - and cut the hole so it would fit afterwards.

I appreciated PT's honest answers to this problem, but I think it's a gross oversight for Engineering not to provide an access cover on the slideout when it's known that the motor requires specific access to replace it.

Bob
I cant even get my head around this process now
Im sure my lacrosse 323 wardrobe slide is the same as your slide in question.
Define "slideout flange"
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:44 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by aubries View Post
Look at this link--it shows how to remove the motor from the inside or outside: ...!
After another visit to my trailer, I would think that it's actually impossible to remove the motor from INSIDE on my trailer (assuming I could actually remove the security screw first).

I viewed the video again and noticed that they have now cut a large notch in the inside frame that allows the motor to be pulled inside the coach. My trailer - 2012 Lacrosse 301RLS - has a full-width frame and about 1/2" space between it and the slide. Totally impossible to remove it that way.

The more I learn about this Schwintek slide the less I like it, especially if the motors are not robust enough to survive a couple of seasons use.

Bob
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:58 PM   #29
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I cant even get my head around this process now
Im sure my lacrosse 323 wardrobe slide is the same as your slide in question.
Define "slideout flange" outside trim?
Take a look at the 2nd picture in this thread. See the wardrobe slideout? There's a 5" flange (or trim) all around the outside and it's obviously added to the slidout box, as some screw heads are visible. Unfortunately, there's more screws INSIDE so the slide must be OPEN to remove the flange.

The hole has to be drilled about 3"-4" in and about 11"-13" down on whichever side needs motor access.

At least, the hole is only cosmetic, and if you take care you should not spoil the weather seals

Bob
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:01 PM   #30
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I decided this job was not going to be easy after I couldn't locate the motor securing screws to know where to drill the holes, so I took it to the local PT Dealer.

Just got it back today - they had it all week. Took them a while to find the security screw and they drilled 3 holes before getting it. Even with the screw removed the motor still couldn't be removed with the slideout in - not enough space to manouver it out. Finally, they dismantled the motor through the gap and took it out in pieces, allowing the slide to be manually opened.

They had a new motor in stock (what can you deduce from that?) and quickly finished the job. The labour costs were $400 and the motor was $259. If you watch the Schwintek video it should easily be possible to replace a faulty motor in 5 minutes, however it is essential to have outside access and PT failed to provide this. Seems to be an unacceptable oversight to me.

Bob
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