Leveling-help!

[Midwestgirl]

I want to raise the back end a little. One side. If I put one block under one stabilizer do I need to hook up and put one under tires on same side?
Thanks!

[Ford Idaho]

Level from side to side with blocks under the tires.
If you wand you may add blocks under the jacks.
So yes hookup and add your block/s and level front to back.

[Midwestgirl]

Got it! Many thanks...still learning with the 5th wheel. Kinda on my own here.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Midwestgirl

I want to raise the back end a little. One side. If I put one block under one stabilizer do I need to hook up and put one under tires on same side?
Thanks!

You have to level side to side with blocks under the tires, can't do it any other way. After it is leveled side to side and the wheels chocked, you can unhook and level front to back.

[Midwestgirl]

I understand now. Many many many thanks guys! As stated...on my own here!

[BamaBob]

No Worries MidwestGirl! Feel free to ask anything - there is a WEALTH of knowledge and experience in the forums!

[Great Horned Owl]

Originally Posted by Midwestgirl

I want to raise the back end a little. One side. If I put one block under one stabilizer do I need to hook up and put one under tires on same side?
Thanks!

The stabilizers are for stabilizing. They are absolutely not for leveling. Using too much force on the stabilizer will apply a twist to the frame and could damage the frame and might also jam your slide.

Joel

[BamaBob]

What Joel said MidWestGirl...Oh and it occurred to me you might not know about the leveling process or leveling blocks - these make it easy to adjust the side-to-side leveling (do this FIRST on a 5th wheel):

Amazon.com: Camco 44505 RV Leveling Blocks - 10 pack: Automotive

Leveling procedure:
1. BEFORE UNHOOKING and Using a 2-3 foot level
a. (Stanley 42-324 24-Inch I-Beam 180 Level - Amazon.com)
2. Place the level under the front edge of your 5th wheel riser (the area close to your hitch)
3. The bubble level will let you know which side needs to be raised and how severe the slop is (some RV-specialty levels will report the slope in inches needed to level the unit)
4. Put the leveling blocks in front of the wheels on the side you need to raise – 2 in front of the leading wheel and 1 in between the wheels.
5. Pull forward @ 1 foot
6. Add a block in between the wheels so the leveling blocks support both wheels.
7. CHOCK YOUR WHEELS
a. We use BAL X-Chocks (these have the added benefit of lessening gthe front to rear sway in the 5th wheel
b. Amazon.com: BAL 28012 X-Chock Tire Locking Chock: Automotive
8. Once chocked, drop your front stabilizer jacks and unhook.
a. Some folks (myself included) carry a 2 foot length of 4x4 to put under the jack feet
9. Using the level on the edge of your riser closest to your front electric jack switch, determine front to rear level (raise or lower your jacks to achieve a level bubble)
10. Lower your rear stabilizers until they make firm contact with the pad – remember they are not jacks. They are just there to minimize the side to side sway in the 5th wheel.
a. You can use those 2 foot chunks of 4x4 here as well

We also use the BAL Kingpin Tripod which SIGNIFICANTLY lessens sway inside the 5th wheel:
BAL 25037 King Pin Gooseneck Tripod Stabilizing Jack : Amazon.com : Automotive

(Disclaimer: I do not work for Amazon – I just use them a lot because they are cheaper than Camping World – even as a Good Sam life member! Plus I am a Prime member and 2 day shipping is free

[Midwestgirl]

Thank you everyone and especially for the step by step procedure. I do have blocks (3 sets) and will also pic up the chunks of 4x4 wood. I asked the selling dealer questions but don't recall him being as clear as the help here.
Will also pick up a larger level today. I'm determined to get this

[Ford Idaho]

The trailer does not need to be perfectly level.

I use one of these in the bottom of the fridge.

Hopkins Bull's Eye Surface Level Hopkins Tools HM09815

Close enough for government work.

[tclcyl]

Midwwestgirl Welcome to the forum! You have stumbled upon a wealth of people and knowledge that can't be beat anywhere. Everyone here is more than willing to help you. Good luck!

[BamaBob]

Let me amplify what Ford just posted – –

You do not have to be 100% level! if your bubble is a bit off you're going to be fine. It is almost impossible to completely level your RV using leveling blocks. In fact, depending upon where you camp, such as KOA's, or other campgrounds of that ilk or higher, 99% of the RV sites will be level enough to where you will not have to use your leveling blocks. The RV resorts actually have poured cement pads that you park on that are completely level side to side and front to back.

The problem comes when you start camping dry on unimproved sites, in NationalParks, or state parks. Often times those sites are not nearly as level as the more premium campsites. These sites, typically, are where you need to exercise your leveling skills :-)

So you have a leveling down pat now – next question? :-)

[Midwestgirl]

With the addition of a private message and all your information I understand the whole process now with leveling. Perhaps the unlocking with go smoother now. It's not as easy as promised by the seller dealer. When I follow the correct steps..unhooking should be a breeze right? The "pull lever" that releases the nose of the 5er doesn't release smoothly. I hope I explained that right.

[Ford Idaho]

I have a Pullrite 16K it was a bit stiff to use so I sprayed the moving parts with
http://www.toolup.com/images/Product...D40-300011.jpg

It all works very well now.

[Midwestgirl]

Yes, HSVBamaBob, I got this! Yay! And I understand leveling is easier on the concrete slabs. My next question is...will leveling properly make the release of the lock go smoothly? It's been difficult to release to unhook.

My husband isn't able to assist for 2 reasons. He was hurt awhile back and now has some early memory loss issues. So although he's a champ in many ways, I'm kinda on my own here. I have no problems with towing. I do all the driving.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by Midwestgirl

Yes, HSVBamaBob, I got this! Yay! And I understand leveling is easier on the concrete slabs. My next question is...will leveling properly make the release of the lock go smoothly? It's been difficult to release to unhook.

My husband isn't able to assist for 2 reasons. He was hurt awhile back and now has some early memory loss issues. So although he's a champ in many ways, I'm kinda on my own here. I have no problems with towing. I do all the driving.

The only time the level of the trailer will be a problem is if it is at an extreme tilt side to side and pulls the trailer plate off the head of the hitch.

[Midwestgirl]

Okay, we haven't had any extreme tilts at all. I am going to start a new thread about unhooking. Maybe you guys can offer some help if you want to! Thanks!

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by Midwestgirl

Yes, HSVBamaBob, I got this! Yay! And I understand leveling is easier on the concrete slabs. My next question is...will leveling properly make the release of the lock go smoothly? It's been difficult to release to unhook.

My husband isn't able to assist for 2 reasons. He was hurt awhile back and now has some early memory loss issues. So although he's a champ in many ways, I'm kinda on my own here. I have no problems with towing. I do all the driving.

Sorry to hear about your DH. Hopefully, he's getting better.

As far as your hitch problems go, sometimes if there is pin pressure against the locking jaws, it will be hard to release. I've found that if you chock the trailer than back up tight against the pin, it will be easier to pull and release.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Midwestgirl

Okay, we haven't had any extreme tilts at all. I am going to start a new thread about unhooking. Maybe you guys can offer some help if you want to! Thanks!

As for unhooking, try raising the trailer to where you have about 1/8" between the pin box and the hitch, which is what I have to do as well as putting the truck in neutral and let it settle if you will and then set the emergency brake on the truck.

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

As for unhooking, try raising the trailer to where you have about 1/8" between the pin box and the hitch, which is what I have to do as well as putting the truck in neutral and let it settle if you will and then set the emergency brake on the truck.

That helps also. By doing both, it should be really easy !!!