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Old 07-11-2015, 11:47 AM   #11
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I use 10 ton jack to frame on low side

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Old 07-11-2015, 11:55 AM   #12
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 31
We were recently at a SP in Louisiana. The original site they assigned to us was on a slope leading to a creek bed. The downslope side was literally 8-9 inches lower than the up slope side. Even if I had enough plastic levelers to compensate, no way was I going to jack up one side that high. Fortunately, they moved us to a nearby site that was much more level. A couple other campers must have been assigned that site and left as soon as they saw it.

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Old 07-11-2015, 01:00 PM   #13
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Location: NE Florida
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Lynx levers work for me if site is not too unlevel side to side. Much lighter & easier to carry than a bunch of wood. Have 1 4"x6"x1.5' for tongue jack.
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Old 07-11-2015, 01:33 PM   #14
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Thumbs down Bad Park sites

Originally Posted by CMSgt (Ret) Charlie Brown View Post
Also, if I am not familiar with campground, I physically walk to the site to see what it looks like. If I am not comfortable, I ask for another site or go to another campground. We did this recently in Virginia. They had me on the side of a mountain and as I walked up I could see all the wood under other campers. I did not have enough dunnage, so we left. Found another campground down the road.

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We have been staying in a small park in Colorado for the past three summers, we actually fixed up the site and put in gravel to level it, well this year we were all set to go and the park owner called and informed us he had rented the site we wanted. He offered us two other sites that we knew were not level and only dirt, we opted not to go because of it. Don't think we will return, love the park, love the area but, owner is operating on a shoe string and can't afford to upgrade the sites.
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Old 07-11-2015, 02:27 PM   #15
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 48
I had some plastic 8"x8" blocks but as they broke I cut 3/4" and some 1/2" 8x8 " to keep them in the bag the plastic came in. Usually one 3/4 will do the job but if needed I add the 1/2". this is for our one night stays.

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Old 07-11-2015, 02:27 PM   #16
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 37
We also use 2x6 just longer than track of both wheels cut 45 degrees at ends to keep from flipping up against the camper as we back or pull onto the board. After side to side we get approximately level front to back then lower the rear stabilizers until slightly higher in rear. Then use front jacks to take tension off tires as we level unit. This keeps bounce to a minimum.
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:03 PM   #17
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Location: Where the stars at night are big and bright
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I have some 1X8's and a couple of sets of Lynx Levelers that work very well. I see that there are several other sorts of options but have never tried them (like Anderson Levelers). If you don't want to look like the local lumberyard, you could paint the boards with deck stain or paint so they look nice.
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Old 07-11-2015, 09:14 PM   #18
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 48
I carry (2) 1x6s and (1) 2x6 all 4 feet long with a bevel cut on one end. If I need more than 3 inches to level, I will maneuver a bit to find the right spot or if none move to a different site.
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Old 07-11-2015, 11:40 PM   #19
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Location: Ontario, California
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Even the toughest trailer frames with scissor jacks on all four corners are not strong enough to level with the jacks. Always level side to side and block both axles, not just one. Then level with the tongue front to rear. Then put the stabilizer jacks down. Then check the door opens and closes smoothly to con firm that the whole thing is square. Then set up camp.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:00 AM   #20
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Bonifay, FL, USA
Posts: 56
We keep a couple of 2x8s in the bed of the truck for leveling. We also have a couple of graduated levels stuck to the trailer so we can tell it's level side-to-side and front-to-back without getting the stick level out.

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