Leveling side to side

[Rigpdx]

Originally Posted by CMSgt (Ret) Charlie Brown

When leveling side to side and for example, your right side is low. Do you shorten the legs on left side to help compensate for height difference on right side? We have a Crusader and when the rear is low, we shorten legs in front to compensate. Does the same principle work side to side?


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I'm not sure which Crusader model you have, but ours has the leveling system, not stabilizer jacks. We use the leveling system for side to side in addition to front to back.

As you suggest, we drop the pins a bit lower on the low side (the most we have had to do is a difference of four holes) It has worked for us. We always ensure the tires do not lift off the ground.
Although I carry two 2X8's I have yet to use them, and in fact we just discussed getting rid of them as the trailer has been able to compensate for uneven sites to this point.

[ben31]

I have tried the Anderson leveler, wood, and lock blocks. I use the anderson occasionally, mostly for paved or gravel sites. However, 90% of the time I use the blocks. I also use the blocks under the stabalizer jacks. They are very easy. You pull in where you want to park, analyze how far off you are slightly back up, place the blocks, and then pull onto the blocks. Easy with a partner to let you know when to stop.

The blocks are light and you can carry quite a few of them in a fairly small area, making for efficient storage.

[oldtool2]

I just looked and I can lower on of my front jacks 16 inches lower than the other. I would block the wheels on the low side so as not to twist the frame. That would be one heck of an uneven spot !!


While your 5th wheel is still on your truck it should be close to level so you can see what blocks and how much you need to adjust your jacks.


Jim

[C. Brown]

Originally Posted by Rigpdx

I'm not sure which Crusader model you have, but ours has the leveling system, not stabilizer jacks. We use the leveling system for side to side in addition to front to back.

As you suggest, we drop the pins a bit lower on the low side (the most we have had to do is a difference of four holes) It has worked for us. We always ensure the tires do not lift off the ground.
Although I carry two 2X8's I have yet to use them, and in fact we just discussed getting rid of them as the trailer has been able to compensate for uneven sites to this point.

We have a 330 MKS with the 4 point leveling system. But someone has shared on this topic that the rear jacks are not for leveling but for stabilizing only. They are not really load bearing since they are right behind the tires.


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[Bullgould]

I invested in a set of the Anderson leveler, red, curved wedges with chucks. I bought two. I had to cut a few inches off the tip of one so it fits between the tires; as suggested in their instructions. They work slick and quick. I put them under the tires on the low side. The DW backs or drives forward. I check the level, directing DW to pull ahead or back up as needed. Once level I put the chucks in, leveling done. No repeated driving on and off a stack of whatever. When I ordered them (from Amazon) I was reluctant given the price. They work soooo quick and slick, it was worth the investment.

[M109Rrider]

Originally Posted by CMSgt (Ret) Charlie Brown

We have a 330 MKS with the 4 point leveling system. But someone has shared on this topic that the rear jacks are not for leveling but for stabilizing only. They are not really load bearing since they are right behind the tires.


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That was me but I don't have the leveling system like you have. I only have front landing gear and rear stabilizers. I would imagine your leveling system is weight bearing but I'm not familiar.

[ACE110]

Something that I have found quite useful is an iPhone app called RVC Free. You place it on the floor, or elsewhere, & it not only shows the level in Both directions, but also the Estimated Thickness required to bring the trailer to level. Saves time putting a 2" spacer in place & finding you only needed 1", etc. You do have to initially calibrate it, but that takes into account your case etc. & a one time exercise.

[Vern]

Originally Posted by Papa GLS

Lynx levers work for me if site is not too unlevel side to side. Much lighter & easier to carry than a bunch of wood. Have 1 4"x6"x1.5' for tongue jack.

x2

[cwppwc]

Originally Posted by Vern

x2

X3 with a mea culpa. Bought my first TT with slides. As with my "old" TT, used stick-on bubble levels for front/back, side to side. Get to first campsite, level perfectly. Extend slides and find bedroom door won't shut properly. Breakout phone with leveling app, it says I'm unlevel. Go outside, the side to side bubble level is off. Scratching head when (figurative) light bulb illuminates. Two slides on one side change the center point and weight distribution. DUH. Live and learn.

[bitNine]

Anderson Levelers. Hands down, they are straight up awesome. However, this last trip I had to shove a board under them due to extremely wet ground.

[muskoka01]

ikss owner i use Anderson levelers they work amazing.

[strat56]

Originally Posted by ACE110

Something that I have found quite useful is an iPhone app called RVC Free. You place it on the floor, or elsewhere, & it not only shows the level in Both directions, but also the Estimated Thickness required to bring the trailer to level. Saves time putting a 2" spacer in place & finding you only needed 1", etc. You do have to initially calibrate it, but that takes into account your case etc. & a one time exercise.

Do you mean RV Companion Free?

[Bullgould]

Originally Posted by strat56

Do you mean RV Companion Free?

I couldn't find a app, RVC, but did find several 'level tool' apps. I am so amazed by all the things that can be done on iPhone.

[M109Rrider]

Has anyone ever heard leveling your camper by leveling your fridge?

[mustardbucket107]

Originally Posted by M109Rrider

Has anyone ever heard leveling your camper by leveling your fridge?

Huh? Typically my fridge levels as i level my camper

Sent from my SM-N910V

[M109Rrider]

While researching ways to make my fridge work better I found a recommendation of using a torpedo level in the freezer to use as guide for mounting outside bubble levelers.

[ACE110]

Originally Posted by strat56

Do you mean RV Companion Free?

Yes, you are correct. It has several other items ie To Do, Camps, Trip Log, etc.

After I initially calibrated, I leveled the trailer using the freezer surface. I then found a spot on the floor, near the door, that matched the readings & I now use that location. Don't want to be opening fridge all the time, but that is what is really critical.

[UmptySquat]

Another satisfied Anderson user here.


2013 Toyota Tundra 5.7L
2015 Apex 288BHS

[cwppwc]

Originally Posted by M109Rrider

While researching ways to make my fridge work better I found a recommendation of using a torpedo level in the freezer to use as guide for mounting outside bubble levelers.

You are correct. This is from Dometic:

Caution
Do not park your RV on a slope for a longer period of
time. Absorption refrigerators use a gravity-flow system.
Being on an angle of more than a couple of degrees for extended
periods of time stops the refrigeration and might
cause damage to the cooling unit.

Also explained here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3uj6oiWfKo

[COPPERJK]

Originally Posted by youroo

Side to side leveling! Youroo!!

Youroo,

Where did you get those ramps?