Leveling side to side

[C. Brown]

Originally Posted by CMSgt (Ret) Charlie Brown

We do not leave here until Monday and it is tight where we are. It is hard to block the street to experiment. I too am curious to see if adjusting holes will adjust high/low sides.


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Spoke with a fellow camper and his rule of thumb is to put about the same amount of "dunnage" under is "low" legs as he does under his tires. Example, if he has 2 inches under his tires on low side, he puts 2 inches under his legs on low side.


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[CWSWine]

Your front jacks operate independent of each other in level mode when using the "Auto Level" function. The aft jacks are made to level the 5th wheel and are not just to stabilize the 5th wheel. Most the advice you are getting is for a non auto leveling systems.

Pull in camping spot - chalk the wheels - lower the front jacks a couple of inches - drop the front legs - take the weight off the hitch - pull the truck out for underneath the hitch!! - push the button "Auto Level" and let the jacks level the 5th wheel. I don't like the idea of the wheels off the ground but Lippet told me it was OK.

Neat trick - when you get ready to hook back to leave push the right and left button at the same time and the trailer will return to the level when it was disconnected.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJLFoZfY1Hs

[C. Brown]

I am not comfortable with tires off the ground. If Lippert will put that in writing, maybe.


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[CWSWine]

I re-read you first question and this is the way I do it. I let the front legs seek their own hole and maybe one or two hole difference then I take the weight off the truck and pull the truck out from underneath the pin. The I hit 'Auto Level" button. When the rear jacks have lowered about 2 inches then I drop the back legs and let the seek the hole which maybe one or two hole off from the other leg. This seems to work the best for me.... Remember this auto level is made to level the trailer without the use of blocks.

I also don't like the wheels off the ground and if they are I will move to another site or at last resort use the old drive up on block method to get closer before push the "Auto Level" button. At the dealer they used "Auto Level" to lift the trailer then put jack stands under it to do wheel bearing packs.

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by CWSWine

I also don't like the wheels off the ground and if they are I will move to another site or at last resort use the old drive up on block method to get closer before push the "Auto Level" button. At the dealer they used "Auto Level" to lift the trailer then put jack stands under it to do wheel bearing packs.

I don't have the auto level system so this may not be possible. My fifth wheel has the old-fashioned front jacks only. It after leveling my wheels are off the ground I take a quick measurement and then raise them up in the air another inch. I then put blocks underneath both tires and lower the trailer back down. This way my trailer is leveled and the wheels are blocked.

Seems to me this is easier than trying to find another site and moving and doing everything all over again.


I can hear the comments now. You're going to use your front checks to raise your trailer up in the air like that? Yes, I did it to take the trailer off the fifth wheel hitch didn't I? I don't see where it can hurt anything.


Jim

[phillyg]

Well, if you put boards or the plastic blocks under the tires on one side to get it as level as possible side to side, then your front jacks will of course have to be adjusted uneven.

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by phillyg

Well, if you put boards or the plastic blocks under the tires on one side to get it as level as possible side to side, then your front jacks will of course have to be adjusted uneven.

Yes, they are adjusted accordingly. I figure that those holes were drilled there for a reason, and it is not to save weight. Once they both touch the ground at the same time you can level the trailer front to back.

Jim

[sjones61]

[labarn]

Nice job but why so big and heavy?


Labarn

[CWSWine]

This is the most extreme site I used my "Auto Level" on. Over 2 feet from front to aft and side to side 4 inches at at the rear and 2 inches in the front. All wheels remained on the ground and was almost perfectly level at the back of the 5er and the front of the 5er.

The "Auto Level" running each jack independent of the other jacks works great when you have site like this one. Took the jacks about minute to level the 5er.

[CWSWine]

Originally Posted by phillyg

Well, if you put boards or the plastic blocks under the tires on one side to get it as level as possible side to side, then your front jacks will of course have to be adjusted uneven.

The OP has "Auto Level" and 99% of the time you don't need to use blocks to level the 5er. All jacks run independent of each other to level the 5er. The front jacks run independent of each other, you an use "Auto Level" or move them up and down independent of each other to level the 5er. The rear jacks on a "Auto Level" are designed to take the weight of the 5er.

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by CWSWine

The OP has "Auto Level" and 99% of the time you don't need to use blocks to level the 5er. All jacks run independent of each other to level the 5er. The front jacks run independent of each other, you an use "Auto Level" or move them up and down independent of each other to level the 5er. The rear jacks on a "Auto Level" are designed to take the weight of the 5er.

I am not referring to blocks under the jacks. Talking about putting them under the tires if they lift off the ground, to protect the axils.

I understand he has ato leveling but that doesn't keep the tires on the ground. Not only that but many others are reading this thread. I don't think most 5er's have auto leveling.

Jim

[sjones61]

Originally Posted by labarn

Nice job but why so big and heavy?


Labarn

Yes it is big and heavy but it gives me a lot of adjustment and I don't have to stack boards and hope that they don't slide apart when I am leveling. This is version 1.0., not sure what next version looks like yet.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by sjones61

Yes it is big and heavy but it gives me a lot of adjustment and I don't have to stack boards and hope that they don't slide apart when I am leveling. This is version 1.0., not sure what next version looks like yet.

Top looks a little too small for a tire to stop and be blocked.

[labarn]

I guess I would not want to be in an rv site that out of level. We were given one that was both up hill and very bad left to right but made the office give us another site that was not great but ok for one night.
I like to see what others do for fixing problems and I do the same for us.


labarn

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by labarn

I guess I would not want to be in an rv site that out of level. We were given one that was both up hill and very bad left to right but made the office give us another site that was not great but ok for one night.
I like to see what others do for fixing problems and I do the same for us.


labarn

Then read this complete thread and learn. You will be able to use unleveled sites after reading this thread, lot of good info.

Jim

[sjones61]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Top looks a little too small for a tire to stop and be blocked.

Yes the top is too small but I was limited by the length of my storage compartment and this is the first version. I will probably remove the top piece.

[DKRITTER]

Originally Posted by sjones61

Mind if I ask how much that weighs?

[nomad297]

I carry 30 Lynx Levelers. I haven't visited a site that I couldn't obtain level. I have used all 30 a couple of times.

Bruce

[sjones61]

Have not weighed it. 30+ would be my guess. Only difference between this and a bunch of the same loose boards is some screws and glue.