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Old 10-05-2012, 07:38 AM   #11
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(Dualsport: I asked the dealer to check it out and they inserted one of those plastic rivets shown in Crusaders post above. This keeps the bottom of the shower wall in place but the rest of it stills bulges unacceptably. I wasn't too pleased with the rivet solution as there's now a potential leak area in the rivit hole. )

I have used rivets for years on F.R.P. in wet area's. If installed with a dab of silicone before placing rivet into hole, it becomes water proof.
But the most important thing is, that you are happy with the repair.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:14 AM   #12
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FYI - we DO NOT screw the bottom of the glass enclosure into the shower pan for obvious reasons. Yes, that does allow it to move a little, but we believe it's better than having holes in your pan.

PTM
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:53 AM   #13
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RV GUY - I agree, but the dealer just did it without my knowledge. The reason I noticed the walls were moving in transit is that after the first 4 hour drive, there were black scuff marks in the pan right beside the angle join. That in itself wasn't a problem and I figured I'd just put a dab of Silicone at each corner. Just wish the dealer had waited to discuss the minor items on my list, as requested.

Crusader - Hopefully the dealer did use silicone. In general, I'm VERY happy with the trailer.

Bob
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusader View Post
Plastic rivits for F.R.P board
My shower was leaking from water running behind those type of rivets.
Tried applying silicone caulk over and behind the rivets, but the caulk wasn't sticking to the shower wall, so water was still leaking down between the walls .
The roommate cut Eternabond. tape into 2" squares and applied it over the rivets and shower wall using a roller.

So far it looks as if the leaks have stopped.
I opened up the fake cabinet doors on the back side of the shower and had a fan blowing on the damp walls and floor for over 24 hours.
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Old 10-11-2012, 07:49 AM   #15
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I've attached a photo showing the rivets we use in our application. They are slightly different than the photo above. They require a 1/4" hole.

These have been used in our industry for 20 years in combination with double sided tape by just about every manufacturer.

What has changed is that the Shower Surrounds are way more intricate in design. They are no longer "flat" (and ugly). Intricate tile-looking designs are universally being incorporated. This makes it more difficult to make sure your tape is sticking on all of the high and low spots. Consequently, more rivets are being used to help keep the Surround flat.

More than anything this is an FYI since this thread seems to have lots of interest.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:24 PM   #16
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Yea, the rivets were not to blame for the leaks.
The leaks were due to the corners of the tile like designs not allowing the rivet heads to fully seat against the shower wall.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV Guy View Post
FYI - we DO NOT screw the bottom of the glass enclosure into the shower pan for obvious reasons. Yes, that does allow it to move a little, but we believe it's better than having holes in your pan.

PTM
I was back at my dealers yesterday with a new problem - the black tank flush handle broke off beside the sewer hose hookup (who designed this with handles hidden up inside the skirt and under the wardrobe slideout) - and mentioned that PT do NOT use screws on the shower base to hold walls in place. He said he did that "as that's the way the factory does it now".

Don't think I believe him but didn't argue - I'm just going to remove screws and reseal the holes.

Bob
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddavis662 View Post
My shower was leaking from water running behind those type of rivets.
Tried applying silicone caulk over and behind the rivets, but the caulk wasn't sticking to the shower wall, so water was still leaking down between the walls .
The roommate cut Eternabond. tape into 2" squares and applied it over the rivets and shower wall using a roller.

So far it looks as if the leaks have stopped.
I opened up the fake cabinet doors on the back side of the shower and had a fan blowing on the damp walls and floor for over 24 hours.
Well the 2" squares didn't hold due to the flexing of the shower wall and the rivets.
So 1st put caulk around the rivets, put 2" squares over the rivets and then 4" squares over the 2" squares.
Hopefully that will work...?


Behind the bathroom, you can see how the shower wall has pulled the 1/8" plywood wall held only with small stables off the studs.
There is water stains, but hopefully no water damage.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV Guy
I'm pretty sure Smokin has a request into our Service group on this issue. I'll let them respond, but I wanted to add to this thread that we do NOT recommend sealing the transition between the bottom of the Surround and the top of the tub. The idea is for any water and moisture to run back into the tub if it gets behind the wall.

PTM
Oops. I sealed my trailers surround this summer. I thought I did a great job too! I was afraid water would get down there but I guess it's he opposite. It still doesn't seem right it isn't sealed but I will try to remove it next year.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:24 AM   #20
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www.npcsealants.com/900.htm
Apply Solar seal caulk into hold before installing F.R.P. rivet. If your using a tub and shower caulk, it will not hold seal because of R.V. road movement. Most siding retailers sell this product.
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