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Old 09-30-2012, 06:25 AM   #1
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Loose Shower Wall Liner

The shower wall liner in my new 290 is separated from the wall at the bottom. How does the factory attach them? If feels like possibly two sided tape. I was going to use a dab of silicone but I thought that it might stick too good then. Any info is appreciated.
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:20 AM   #2
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Mine did the same thing. I just filled the gap in with some calking just want to keep water from getting behind there.
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:38 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Smokin View Post
The shower wall liner in my new 290 is separated from the wall at the bottom. How does the factory attach them? If feels like possibly two sided tape. I was going to use a dab of silicone but I thought that it might stick too good then. Any info is appreciated.
Are you talking about the gap between the wall and tub?....mine has that as well and i was told specifically NOT to seal that gap by 2 diff techs?....

Or are you referring to something else?
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:57 PM   #4
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Are you talking about the gap between the wall and tub?....mine has that as well and i was told specifically NOT to seal that gap by 2 diff techs?....

Or are you referring to something else?
It's not a gap. The bottom of the liner (wall panel) is loose. It sticks out an inch or two at the bottom in the middle. When I push it in it sticks for a very short time like it is held in with two sided tape. I might try a dab of caulking however I think caulking the whole bottom to the base would trap moisture behind the wall.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:19 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by ironj

Are you talking about the gap between the wall and tub?....mine has that as well and i was told specifically NOT to seal that gap by 2 diff techs?....

Or are you referring to something else?
Do you know why they say not to seal that gap? I was going to seal/caulk my new 2013 tub/wall looks like water can get under that gap.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:58 AM   #6
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Do you know why they say not to seal that gap? I was going to seal/caulk my new 2013 tub/wall looks like water can get under that gap.

If these units are similar to residential ones and water gets behind it and you seal the bottom the water can't get out. Usually the side walls sit on the base and the base has a lip that goes up the wall about 1/2". If you seal it off moisture can get trapped behind the unit and deteriorate the wall.
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:07 AM   #7
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If these units are similar to residential ones and water gets behind it and you seal the bottom the water can't get out. Usually the side walls sit on the base and the base has a lip that goes up the wall about 1/2". If you seal it off moisture can get trapped behind the unit and deteriorate the wall.
Makes spence to me! I'll hold off for now and keep an eye on it to see if I get any water behind it next year. Thanks for the info. Last hybrid did not have a full surround.
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:13 AM   #8
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:19 AM   #9
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I'm pretty sure Smokin has a request into our Service group on this issue. I'll let them respond, but I wanted to add to this thread that we do NOT recommend sealing the transition between the bottom of the Surround and the top of the tub. The idea is for any water and moisture to run back into the tub if it gets behind the wall.

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Old 10-04-2012, 10:16 PM   #10
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The shower wall liner in my new 290 is separated from the wall at the bottom. How does the factory attach them? If feels like possibly two sided tape. I was going to use a dab of silicone but I thought that it might stick too good then. Any info is appreciated.
The shower wall in my Lacrosse 301RLS is "detached" from the "kitchen" wall from the base to about half way up. There's a large bump that you can press back against the wall and it "sticks" for a few seconds and then pops back (giving the impression of double-sided tape behind it). It was sticking out from the shower base about 1". I asked the dealer to check it out and they inserted one of those plastic rivets shown in Crusaders post above. This keeps the bottom of the shower wall in place but the rest of it stills bulges unacceptably. I wasn't too pleased with the rivet solution as there's now a potential leak area in the rivit hole.

I also noticed that the shower glass walls seem to move a lot during transit as they are only secured where the glass meets the trailer walls - they tend to flex at the "angle" joint near the door. I pointed this out to the dealer and he drilled through the door tread (and shower base) and added 2 screws. It stops the walls moving but again causes long term concerns for undetectable leaks.

When I take the trailer back to the dealer for the next round of warranty fixes, I'll be asking them to confirm what they are planning to do before I agree to it. There's already several items that I've decided just to fix myself as I think I'd spend more time (and do a better job?).

Bob
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