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Old 10-05-2011, 07:29 PM   #1
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Maiden Voyage

Hi all,

I am as new as it gets, so some of these questions may seem like common sense but.... We have tent camped for many year and now we have a TT. We have spent the last 2 weekends getting the essentials, linens, all new kitchen items, you know the program. So we are now ready.. I think. 3 things I am unsure of.

1.) Do you put any chemical in the 2 grey water tanks?
2.) On my two LP tanks they are both open, shouldnt just one be open and when it runs out open the other?
3.) Also there is a breaker for Hot water heater. When do you normally turn that on? On your way to CG? Its in driveway now and for the maiden Voyage tomorrow its only 1hr to CG, should I turn it on tonight? I assume that runs on gas, just electric ignites it??

Sorry, I am real green. Even though I liked my dealer, I am concerned I didnt get the rookie training or asked enough questions.

Any help much appreciated,
Thanks,
Mike
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Old 10-05-2011, 07:54 PM   #2
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I have only put "chemicals" in my gray tanks when winterizing. For use, I just use them and drain them. I will however, start using calgon and laundry detergent in both the gray and black starting with my next trip. The Geo Method

Depending on your LP tank setup, you probably have an automatic switchover valve between them. If you open both, it will "drink" from the one that the switch it pointed to. When that one goes empty, it will automatically switch over to the other tank. Of course, doing it manually has merit too because you'll know when it went empty and you'll know how long you've been on the newer tank.

I only start the water heater once I arrive on the site and only then if I'm going to need hot water anytime soon. Yours may be a dual fuel heater (gas OR electric). Most new ones are like that. You can save some LP by running your water heater on electric. It's not large, so there's no need to leave it on all the time and certainly not overnight.

Hope that helps.
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Old 10-05-2011, 08:44 PM   #3
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I usually only open the gas bottle I'm using. I run both gas and electric to my hot water tank but I don't turn it on till I get to the CG and after I ensure all the air is purged. It only take a few minutes to heat up and while using both heat sources it cuts down on recover time. Unless someone is showering or doing dishes I've never noticed the gas side ignite. I shut the breaker off at home just for extra protection against it accidentally being turned on. Plus my home electric hook up can't handle the load of it or the A/C. Might want to check out the Geo System posted by Herk for waste tank maintenance. I'll see if I can find the link. Congrats on the new rig.... Enjoy!!
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Old 10-05-2011, 08:48 PM   #4
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Check out geomethod in the second post
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...rol-16540.html
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Old 10-05-2011, 10:46 PM   #5
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If your worried that your dealer didn't cover enough detail:
One thing not covered in the previous post is; Don't turn on the electric to the HW Heater until you are sure it is full of water. If not, the heating element will burn out in seconds. One way to check is to hook up to your water supply and you should hear the tank filling (if it's empty). You can double check by opening the pressure release valve momentarily (water should come out). It's located outside behind the metal flip down door.
Also, if your dealer left the HW heater in "bypass" then the tank will not fill and you will not have hot water at all even on "gas" mode. The valves on the 303RKS are located under and to the right of the kitchen sink. They are not easy to see and reach at the same time. So, if the tank doesn't fill, remove the thin wooden panel behind the right cabinet door under the sink. The water pump will be right in front of you. Look further to the right and you will see the white styrofoam insulated HW heater. Look at the lines (you'll need a flashlight) going into the back of the HW heater. One line should be red (hot out) with a valve and the other blue or white (cold in) with a valve. There will also be a line connecting these 2 lines with a valve in the middle. To get water to the tank, the "cold in" and the "hot out" valves must be open and the valve in the line between the hot and cold must be closed.

I hope I wasn't too long winded and overexplained. It's just that I don't know how much your dealer "prepped" you on each appliance. If you still have difficulty, just post back here and one of us will surely be glad to give you more guidence. After all, that's what were are all here for.

Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:01 AM   #6
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Gents,
Thanks for all the help, great info. This spurred an additional question. I did just check the hot water tank and appear to be full of water by cracking pressure relief valve water shot out. So after doing that there are all these other directions about lighting the pilot and pushing an ignition and how using gas and electric gets quick recovery, etc. But i dont see any "ignition" buttons anywhere quite honestly I couldnt tell you how to turn it on gas, electric or both. The only switch I see is a breaker under the refridgerator and its currently turned off. I am assuming when i get to camp today that after I plug in, flip HW breaker to on that will start an auto ignition? Does this seem correct?
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:10 AM   #7
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There is no pilot, it has an ignitor. There should be a switch somewhere in the camper. Normally it's white with a red light and two switches. One for electric and one for gas.
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:13 AM   #8
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Mike,
There's a cabinet door above the tv, on the right. Behind that door will be several switches, one of which is the electric and gas switches for hot water. Electric on the left and gas on the right.
When you turn on the gas side the red light will turn on until the water heater lights. At that point the light goes off.
If there is air in the lines you can light your stove first to purge the line. The water heater will attempt to light three times before you need to recycle the switch.
Also, when you open your tanks, do it slowly, all the way, then a about ¼ turn back.
As for the electric, as long as the breaker is on simply turn the switch to the on position.
Give the water heater 15 to 30 minutes to heat the water.





Hope this helps.
Gary
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:25 AM   #9
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Thanks, turn HW breaker on and those two switches and problem solved! I had a different impression of what them der switches was for. Oh boy! This may be a long weekend. Good thing I down loaded the app in case I run into trouble. I need to attend a master class in TT camp/rv'in.
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:28 AM   #10
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No problem. If you have anymore questions, just ask. Plenty of good knowlegable people on here willing to help.
Enjoy your trip.
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTNewbees View Post
Thanks, turn HW breaker on and those two switches and problem solved! I had a different impression of what them der switches was for. Oh boy! This may be a long weekend. Good thing I down loaded the app in case I run into trouble. I need to attend a master class in TT camp/rv'in.
Just a reminder; you don't have to use BOTH electric and gas at the same time unless you're using a lot of hot water quickly. If hooked up at CG to 30 amp service, you can use just the electric side. If dry camping, use the gas side. Save your gas for cooking and furnace.
No better master class than lernin' by sperience.
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:53 AM   #12
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Gas/electric water heaters have an electric switch on the outside.The water heater cover has to be opened and the switch is located in the lower left hand corner,it is behind a pipe and is very easy to miss.There may also be a clip thru the switch keeping it off.
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Old 10-06-2011, 12:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dap View Post
Gas/electric water heaters have an electric switch on the outside.The water heater cover has to be opened and the switch is located in the lower left hand corner,it is behind a pipe and is very easy to miss.There may also be a clip thru the switch keeping it off.

your statement is not totally true .
my camper has and electric switch inside that circumvents the outside switch . just so you know by looking at the panel in post number 8 his is the same way .
so the switch outside on the hw heater can be off and the one inside can be on and still turn it on . just and fyi
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Old 10-06-2011, 12:04 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dap View Post
Gas/electric water heaters have an electric switch on the outside.The water heater cover has to be opened and the switch is located in the lower left hand corner,it is behind a pipe and is very easy to miss.There may also be a clip thru the switch keeping it off.
dap, you are correct for most Suburban water heaters. The PT's have Atwood water heaters and they have electric and gas switches inside the trailer.
Look at the pics in my post #8 showing the location of the switches. That is the inside of the LaCrosse 303RKS, same as the OP's.

Thanks for your input though. That may save some confusion.
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:11 PM   #15
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Gents,
All set up and everything works exactly the way you guys told me. Kudos to you guys and primetime for a "so far so good successful outing"! Right off the lot everything is working as it should.

Thanks again,
Mike
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:29 PM   #16
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Well... First trip went ok, trailer towed good, basically everything functioned. Need to take it back to for 3 items not functioning so well, but all in all good trip. I am a little confused about 1 thing. After reading this forum I think I handled the dump situation ok. I rolled up to dump, people ahead of me had them throwaway sanitary gloves(added to needs list). Hooked up the hose, pulled black, after it stopped running I pulled the grey after that stopped, closed black, grey put sewer cap on and flushed out my hose and stowed it in bumper.

Here is where I am confused, I get home, go into bathroom, where the control panel is. Push battery (shows full charge), push black button(says E) push fresh water( 1/3 full), push grey (says E) and then push galley says 2/3 full. I assume the galley button is grey water from kitchen sink. Any ideas as to why it didn't drain out when I pulled the grey valve?
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:55 PM   #17
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Does it have a separate pull handle?
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Old 10-09-2011, 04:02 PM   #18
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I didn't see or find one, crawling around underneath, maybe some kind if diverter valve, that I didn't see or find.
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Old 10-09-2011, 04:14 PM   #19
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Those tank sensors are terribly inaccurate, I wouldn't be surprise that it's empty and still reading. I have 3 tanks and 3 handles, maybe Gary or someone else who is familiar with the Lacross models will chime in.
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Old 10-09-2011, 04:16 PM   #20
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The 303RKS's galley drain runs from the back of the trailer (location of tank) to the dump valve and the pitch of the drain is very gradual. So if you're tt is high in the front while dumping the galley may not drain completely.
I've ran into the same as you. Since then I make sure the front and street side of the tt is low. The tanks drain completely when I do this.

Hope this helps you.
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