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Old 04-28-2012, 10:27 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
I can drill a hole. I have NO idea how to weld.
Will welding do anything to the steel of the hitch head?

(Oh, grass don't grow on a busy street. I saw the benefit of that safety latch immediately. )
ARE YOU KIDDING ME ? The herk is alas one of us !
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:42 AM   #62
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herk...I have a pair of concrete boots for you and a para shoot that I folded....thats for buying the last 12k safety lock... ya I know..you'll weld my hitch for me.....
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:42 AM   #63
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I think that I am going to weld it on instead of bolting.
Just a thought... if a welded on latch-pin was ever engaged in travel to save the day due to a hitch failure, and the pin was bent in the process, wouldn't it be far, far easier to "un-hitch" the TV from the trailer so the damaged latch-pin could be replaced and any repairs made to the hitch (if necessary) if the part was bolted on rather than welded on?

Am I making any sense?
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:44 AM   #64
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Just a thought... if a welded on latch-pin was ever engaged in travel to save the day due to a hitch failure, and the pin was bent in the process, wouldn't it be far, far easier to "un-hitch" the TV from the trailer so the damaged latch-pin could be replaced and any repairs made to the hitch (if necessary) if the part was bolted on rather than welded on?

Am I making any sense?
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I know what you are saying and yes it would be far easier if its bolted.
IF its welded and there a failure the lock would have to be cut before camper could be un hitched .
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:50 AM   #65
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[QUOTE=f1100turbo;188035]Just a thought... if a welded on latch-pin was ever engaged in travel to save the day due to a hitch failure, and the pin was bent in the process, wouldn't it be far, far easier to "un-hitch" the TV from the trailer so the damaged latch-pin could be replaced and any repairs made to the hitch (if necessary) if the part was bolted on rather than welded on?

Am I making any sense?
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:57 AM   #66
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I guess the the lock rod would in fact have to be bent from hitch failure of course to assume you'd have to cut if off .
And bolting it would have a similar reaction other than two bolts are easier to remove than cutting the shaft .
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:57 AM   #67
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I just bought some material to make one and the tube matl is 1-1/2" dia steel tube with 15/16" dia id (6') and a 7/8" dia cd solid rod (3') $10.86 total cost. The 7/8 rod is the only thing that would have to be cut if it were bent and it is only spanning approx. 4-1/2" unsupported. I think it might get scarred up a bit but am doubtful it would be bent to the point it couldn't be pulled out. A sawsall would fix that problem if it were bent.
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:02 AM   #68
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dunnnc are you going to use a roll pin for the locking pin ?
as seen on the web site pic ? Re the quarter turn to release .
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:09 AM   #69
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I just bought some material to make one and the tube matl is 1-1/2" dia steel tube with 15/16" dia id and a 7/8" dia cd solid rod. The 7/8 rod is the only thing that would have to be cut if it were bent and it is only spanning approx. 4-1/2" unsupported. I think it might get scarred up a bit but am doubtful it would be bent to the point it couldn't be pulled out. A sawsall would fix that problem if it were bent.
What was the material cost ?.......
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:21 AM   #70
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f1100turbo, will probably drill a hole toward the end of one of the tubes and shaft and insert a press to release pin like this. Total cost of matl was $10.86 for 6' of the tubing and 3' of the rod.
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