My worst nighmare

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by herk7769

I can drill a hole. I have NO idea how to weld.
Will welding do anything to the steel of the hitch head?

(Oh, grass don't grow on a busy street. I saw the benefit of that safety latch immediately. )

ARE YOU KIDDING ME ? The herk is alas one of us !

[Crusader]

herk...I have a pair of concrete boots for you and a para shoot that I folded....thats for buying the last 12k safety lock... ya I know..you'll weld my hitch for me.....

[J_KHawthorne]

Originally Posted by Crusader

I think that I am going to weld it on instead of bolting.

Just a thought... if a welded on latch-pin was ever engaged in travel to save the day due to a hitch failure, and the pin was bent in the process, wouldn't it be far, far easier to "un-hitch" the TV from the trailer so the damaged latch-pin could be replaced and any repairs made to the hitch (if necessary) if the part was bolted on rather than welded on?

Am I making any sense?

[TURBS]

Just a thought... if a welded on latch-pin was ever engaged in travel to save the day due to a hitch failure, and the pin was bent in the process, wouldn't it be far, far easier to "un-hitch" the TV from the trailer so the damaged latch-pin could be replaced and any repairs made to the hitch (if necessary) if the part was bolted on rather than welded on?

Am I making any sense?
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I know what you are saying and yes it would be far easier if its bolted.
IF its welded and there a failure the lock would have to be cut before camper could be un hitched .

[Crusader]

[QUOTE=f1100turbo;188035]Just a thought... if a welded on latch-pin was ever engaged in travel to save the day due to a hitch failure, and the pin was bent in the process, wouldn't it be far, far easier to "un-hitch" the TV from the trailer so the damaged latch-pin could be replaced and any repairs made to the hitch (if necessary) if the part was bolted on rather than welded on?

Am I making any sense?
__________________

Good point..............

[TURBS]

I guess the the lock rod would in fact have to be bent from hitch failure of course to assume you'd have to cut if off .
And bolting it would have a similar reaction other than two bolts are easier to remove than cutting the shaft .

[OldCoot]

I just bought some material to make one and the tube matl is 1-1/2" dia steel tube with 15/16" dia id (6') and a 7/8" dia cd solid rod (3') $10.86 total cost. The 7/8 rod is the only thing that would have to be cut if it were bent and it is only spanning approx. 4-1/2" unsupported. I think it might get scarred up a bit but am doubtful it would be bent to the point it couldn't be pulled out. A sawsall would fix that problem if it were bent.

[TURBS]

dunnnc are you going to use a roll pin for the locking pin ?
as seen on the web site pic ? Re the quarter turn to release .

[Crusader]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

I just bought some material to make one and the tube matl is 1-1/2" dia steel tube with 15/16" dia id and a 7/8" dia cd solid rod. The 7/8 rod is the only thing that would have to be cut if it were bent and it is only spanning approx. 4-1/2" unsupported. I think it might get scarred up a bit but am doubtful it would be bent to the point it couldn't be pulled out. A sawsall would fix that problem if it were bent.

What was the material cost ?.......

[OldCoot]

f1100turbo, will probably drill a hole toward the end of one of the tubes and shaft and insert a press to release pin like this. Total cost of matl was $10.86 for 6' of the tubing and 3' of the rod.

[bobsquarepants]

Maybe its a load of (you know) but I was told that the sliding bar type hitches were for good for the short travellers (hour or so to the lake) and the jaw type are better for long distance towing. The reason for this is that the bar becomes notched from wear, so lots of slop and apparently after some wear its a pain to release because of the wear notch?

[TURBS]

That would work or two clip pins on either side of the mounting plate.

[Herk7769]

All this talk about a bent pin got me thinking.

I would just drop the landing gear; raise the hitch plate with the landing gear; pull the pins that retain the hitch plate; lift it clear of the hitch body; drive the truck out from underneath; remove the hitch plate from the pin; unscrew and remove the ruined catch kit; put the hitch plate back on the hitch body; reconnect the camper; make sure it was hitched; drive home; order another catch kit and bolt it back on.

All this would be impossible to do if it was welded on.

[J_KHawthorne]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

I just bought some material to make one and the tube matl is 1-1/2" dia steel tube with 15/16" dia id (6') and a 7/8" dia cd solid rod (3') $10.86 total cost. The 7/8 rod is the only thing that would have to be cut if it were bent and it is only spanning approx. 4-1/2" unsupported. I think it might get scarred up a bit but am doubtful it would be bent to the point it couldn't be pulled out. A sawsall would fix that problem if it were bent.

dunnnc: hope that you will please post some pics when you 'git 'er done'!

[Herk7769]

I have the Pullrite Superglide hitch and when you can see the silver all the way around the hitch you can take it to the bank that the hitch is locked and will not release.

However it is NOT foolproof. It can by "high hitched" if you don't check every time. Just because you heard the positive slam as the gate closes around the pin does not mean the pin was in the right place.

A poor attack angle (the Pullrite is limited to 15 degrees) and a overly high pin height during hitching; can trip the latch lever with the pin "head" and potentially the latch can close with the pin "head" above the gate.

This has not happened to me "yet" but it could, I suppose. On a cold rainy day, I might be tempted at a "cursory" glance; seeing what I wanted to see and not what I needed to see.

That 50 dollar piece of insurance will give me some peace of mind.

[J_KHawthorne]

Originally Posted by herk7769

That 50 dollar piece of insurance will give me some peace of mind.

ditto!!!! So much of life is just a matter of sound risk-management! (Just ordered one Butch's latch-pins for my Reese 16K slider.)

[crocus]

"Maybe its a load of (you know) but I was told that the sliding bar type hitches were for good for the short travellers (hour or so to the lake) and the jaw type are better for long distance towing. The reason for this is that the bar becomes notched from wear, so lots of slop and apparently after some wear its a pain to release because of the wear notch?"
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We have had ours for almost 20 years, on three different fifth wheels, and there is no wear on the locking bar.
So I guess whoever told you that was full of "you know".

[OldCoot]

Herk, I would or will, should it happen, do the same thing as you except not remove it. Why remove it? Just hitch up and go. When I got to where I was going I would remove the hitch, cut the pin if bent and put in another pin and go again. If the hitch plate is undamaged, no problem if it is bent, simply cut the tubes off, weld them on a new hitch plate and go again. Understand you have to have the equipment to do all that, which I am lucky enough to have.

[onetonford]

Originally Posted by crocus

"Maybe its a load of (you know) but I was told that the sliding bar type hitches were for good for the short travellers (hour or so to the lake) and the jaw type are better for long distance towing. The reason for this is that the bar becomes notched from wear, so lots of slop and apparently after some wear its a pain to release because of the wear notch?"
==============================================
We have had ours for almost 20 years, on three different fifth wheels, and there is no wear on the locking bar.
So I guess whoever told you that was full of "you know".

Here is a foto of one that was used for only 5 years with alot of miles and you can see some wear I think the guy that owned it never greased or maintained it.

[onetonford]

Originally Posted by crocus

onetonford, did you forget to lock your hitch?
Mine has no 'rack and pinion', not sure what that would be used for.
My DSP is spring loaded, and when I back into the king pin, that sucker slams shut like a bear trap. There is no way for it to slide open as yours seems to have done, but just to be sure, there is a locking pin.
Like I said, it is foolproof.

crocus Here is a pic that shows the rack and pinion I was telling you about it is not the hitch I had but is built the same. If you look close you see the shaft in the center of gear that broke on mine.