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Old 11-02-2012, 10:58 AM   #11
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Thanks for all the input I have found out that the camper hitch height is 22 inches and right now my ball on my 1200lbs reese weight dist hitch is at 25inches so I first need to drop 4inches (which means buying another shank to lower the hitch head) and buy at least ONE sway control device... Im I correct in this because Im looking at 200. dollars for this or should I go for something more?
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Old 11-02-2012, 12:07 PM   #12
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You have said that your trailer rode level. I don't exactly understaind why you would want to lower the ball.

RV Guy stated the couple is 22" at the bottom. If the top of the ball is 25", then that should be about right. 22", plus a 2" plus ball, with an estimated 1" drop on the hitch when the trailer connected looks about perfect.

If something in those measurements aren't exactly correct, then you maybe able to flip your hitch shank. If it is pointed in the air now, you can turn it over, point it to the ground, and that gives you a bunch of lower settings.

How about a picture of your hitch, your WDH setup, and both the truck and trailer combo so we can see what things look like ??
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:50 PM   #13
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Ok, what I was saying about the ball height and hitch height is from the RV dealership saying the ball needed to be 1 inch below the campers ball mount height.... My trailer when looking at it hitched to my truck LOOKS level and my truck is level that being said how do I get the sway out of my camper? will lowering the front of my camper to level or 1 inch lower in the front help with sway or adding a friction sway control help? or do I need to jump into the deep end and buy a Reese staight pull or Blue Ox ect....


PS to lower my ball on my hitch I will have to buy a lower shank Im at the lower limt!

Thanks for talking this out for me..
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:11 PM   #14
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Having the front end of double axle trailer lower than the back end will actually take weight off of the hitch....at least it does on mine. Lowering the tongue will put more weight on the front axle, take it off of the back axle, moving the axle "center" (fulcrum) towards the front of the trailer. That takes weight off of the tongue (lever).

I think getting the WDH setup correctly is the number 1 priority. You can't rely on the dealer to look at it and say "that looks about right". Exact fender measurements that should be spelled out in the WDH instruction booklet, or a trip across some CAT scales might be in order.

Once the WDH is setup correctly, then find a flat parking lot or driveway, and measure ground to frame of the trailer front to back. That should be within an inch of so.

At a minimum, 2 anti-sway friction bars will probably need to be added. That is cheaper than getting a whole nudder WDH.
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:29 PM   #15
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A pic of said setup would help immensly.....and scale numbers would tell rest of story....a sway bar or two is a given....
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:58 PM   #16
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Ok what I have heard from you guys is sinking in to my head.... Does the old style friction sway control worth trying to use and buy or would I be better off buy a new set up due to the size trailer I now have? the sway was noticable while going 65-70mph down the interstate and rual hwy and sway was not all the time and never felt it in the truck but looking in the mirror looked like it was moving 10-12 inches all around in my lane anything under 60mph and I didnt have any sway
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:12 PM   #17
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It's recommended to have two friction devices on TT's over 30'...our previous TT was 32' floor plan (37' overall length) and I used one friction plate, wasn't enough but helped a little.
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ky joe
Ok what I have heard from you guys is sinking in to my head.... Does the old style friction sway control worth trying to use and buy or would I be better off buy a new set up due to the size trailer I now have? the sway was noticable while going 65-70mph down the interstate and rual hwy and sway was not all the time and never felt it in the truck but looking in the mirror looked like it was moving 10-12 inches all around in my lane anything under 60mph and I didnt have any sway
Why would you be doing 70. Trailer rated tires are usually rated at 65. Maybe 60 is a good speed.
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ky joe View Post
Ok what I have heard from you guys is sinking in to my head.... Does the old style friction sway control worth trying to use and buy or would I be better off buy a new set up due to the size trailer I now have?
Hmmm, decisions, decisions.

I think the Reese Pro Series head assembly comes with a double ear setup.....the 2 extensions on either side of the ball platform that has holes in it for the small friction bar balls.

If that is the case, and it were me, I think I would opt to try 2 friction sway bars. For about $200, you can get 2 quality friction anti-sway bars, or 2 cheap 1s for about $100....I don't know the big difference between the cheap and expensive ones....maybe someone with experience with that type of sway control can chime in here.

If your current head assembly does not have the double ears, then replacing that is going to run about $150....plus the cost of the friction bars. In that case, if your current hitch shank and head assembly will work with the crook style spring bars (a call to Cequent towing would be needed to make sure), you can get 2 new spring bars and the dual cam setup for ~$370. That might be the better route if your current head assembly will not accommodate 2 friction bars.

Does all that make sense ??

In using the friction bar system, you may have to remove the bars before backing so that you do not bend the bars. A small price to pay if it controls the sway.
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:56 PM   #20
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my wd hitch has the 2 holes for mounting the sway control on each side with all that said, I can buy the Equalizer 4point for 423.00 vs just paying 200.00 for the sway control and having to remove all of that before backing up would.....( I would forget) and be out more money!
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