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Old 03-03-2016, 11:09 AM   #11
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Another member had something I would say is similar...a few guys asked him to check for the below and that seemed to fix the issue...
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Old 03-03-2016, 11:27 AM   #12
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The pic above is of a circuit break, a resettable "fuse" if you will. I had one rust "open" on a cedar creek several years ago. The technology and the lack of real protection has not changed.


Quick test: Jumper connect the two studs, use the switch for the slide and see if the motor runs. If so, the breaker is open. try resetting it as mentioned, whack it gently to see if that helps, spray with WD40 (aim for the insides) and then whack it.
If it does not reset, You can replace the breaker from an auto parts or marine store or bypass it with a 30A fuse in the correct holder, the fuse connected across the studs.


Good luck!
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Old 03-03-2016, 11:42 AM   #13
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if that is actually the type of circuit breaker used, the "Shortstop" is a product of Cooper-Bussmann, a large, well-known company in the electrical protection device industry.


Video clip on use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=emckrqicORs


Data sheet: Bussmann Automotive Circuit Breakers - Wiring Products


Still, poor protection (out in the open on a TT tongue, even with the little red boot on) is the #1 cause of failure of these devices.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:02 PM   #14
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OP said in post #1 that he has power to the slide switch. Is the resettable fuse located between the slide switch & the slide motor? I would think that the fuse would be before the switch, but really don't know for sure. Just trying to help run down the problem. Sure sounds like the switch may be bad. Just thinking out loud here; hope he gets it straightened out.
He also said no power after the switch.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:16 PM   #15
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Carefully check all connections.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa GLS View Post
OP said in post #1 that he has power to the slide switch. Is the resettable fuse located between the slide switch & the slide motor? I would think that the fuse would be before the switch, but really don't know for sure. Just trying to help run down the problem. Sure sounds like the switch may be bad. Just thinking out loud here; hope he gets it straightened out.
He also said no power after the switch.
Good point Papa!
I had focused on the breaker, which was the root of my previous problem. it should be located upstream from the switch, so power at the switch should mean it's ok. Still, breaker could fail under load and just be passing enough electrons to show as close to battery voltage but not really any current.
The simplest problem is probably the correct one. I hope he is able to track down the problem!
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:53 PM   #17
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Nice catch, guess I should read closer next time. My apologies. Good luck!
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:34 PM   #18
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A Last Resort

If all else fails, use the tool to manually crank the slide out / in. That way it won't disrupt your trip plans. My TT came with one that looks like the crank for manual stabilizer jacks. I learned about all this because my slide fuse blew our fisrt trip.... It was a 30 amp located in the main fuse/breaker panel.
Hope you have a fun trip.
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:20 PM   #19
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Slide power

Have you checked the controller. It is the electrical component between the power and the motor. I had the same problem with my LR slide. Checked everything and located the controllers in the battery compartment that had shorted out.

Good luck
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:12 PM   #20
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Well hopefully, he found his problem and got the family off to Disney! No update so......good news?
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