Sanibel Fresh Water Drain

[BarryD0706]

Dear PrimeTime,
please tell me what the thinking is on the design of this fresh-water-tank drain.


Is it:
1) That vinyl hose can take freezing expansion (but what about the valve & PEX clamp)?

2) The line won't freeze due to heat conduction thru the water from the heated water In the tank (but shouldn't it have at least pipe insulation around it If that's going to work)?

3) ??

Thanks!

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by BarryD0706

Dear PrimeTime,
please tell me what the thinking is on the design of this fresh-water-tank drain.

Is it:
1) That vinyl hose can take freezing expansion (but what about the valve & PEX clamp)?

2) The line won't freeze due to heat conduction thru the water from the heated water In the tank (but shouldn't it have at least pipe insulation around it If that's going to work)?

3) ??

Thanks!

Its very similar to what I have on my sabre.
And it doesn't have heated anything tanks lines or otherwise.
Are asking if this will freeze? If so yes
Are you thinking they did this so it wouldn't freeze? Or some type of freeze protection?


Turbs

[bjesparza1988]

From what I understand the Sanibel, at least from the Brochure on it boast it's ability to be an "all seasons" RV. They talk a lot about it's ability to handle the cold. weather. It would be good to have an answer on this.

[DnD]

Originally Posted by BarryD0706

Dear PrimeTime,
please tell me what the thinking is on the design of this fresh-water-tank drain.

Is it:
1) That vinyl hose can take freezing expansion (but what about the valve & PEX clamp)?

2) The line won't freeze due to heat conduction thru the water from the heated water In the tank (but shouldn't it have at least pipe insulation around it If that's going to work)?

3) ??

Thanks!

Barry,

That is identical to how my drain line is on my Crusader. I have had the trailer out once in below freezing temps and with the furnace running I had no problems at all.

Also we had over night freezing temps a few weeks ago (4 days worth) where the trailer was in storage and I had no issues.

I have no idea if this was dumb luck or what...waiting to see what RVGuy says in response to your question.......

[RV Guy]

This is the way all of our products drain the fresh tank and, yes, the exposed line would freeze up if it had water in it. However, the frozen line would thaw at the insulated and heated tank area and your fresh tank will be operational. It is a tested fact that the interior of our Sanibel tanks have registered at 91 degrees at 13 degrees below zero so I'm confident the line will not be frozen at the tank.

If your point is that you would not be able to drain your tank because the exposed line is frozen, we would agree.

Whether insulating this line and valve would prevent it from freezing is something I don't have personal experience with - perhaps.

If this is an objection, then maybe we should consider the installation of another shut-off valve right at the tank so that water never leaves the heated area. Not sure if that is practical or not, but a thought . . .

PTM

[BarryD0706]

RV Guy,
thanks. My concern is that the thawing of that frozen line will break the valve, or at least expand the PEX clamp, so that this line will leak after that. I was not so concerned about being able to drain the tank while it's frozen since It wouldn't likely be frozen for long here in Texas, but I can see that people in very cold climates could have a problem if it was time to store the RV and you were forced to leave water in the tank without tank heaters.

I can certainly try putting insulation around the pipe to try my "conduction" theory, but I'm not likely to be able to test that anytime soon. I do think the PrimeTime should find/verify some way to prevent this line from breaking when the fresh water tank is in-use in freezing temperatures, at least on the 4-season Sanibels.

Thanks.

[lindy]

If freezing of the valve is the main concern it looks like you could change the valve to a metal one and then be less likely to crack if it does freeze.

[BarryD0706]

Originally Posted by lindy

If freezing of the valve is the main concern it looks like you could change the valve to a metal one and then be less likely to crack if it does freeze.

It sounds like you don't understand the power of freezing water. Here is a picture of a brass valve that I replaced on the outside of my house *twice* before I figured out that I couldn't adequately insulate it.

[lindy]

Barry, understand the power of freezing water living here in NY where temps are -0 or more in the winter. Would use a steel vlv, brass being a much softer metal will fail where steel won't

[wmcclay]

We have had our Sanibel in western Colo with 0 at night and not above 19 during the day for 3 days straight. Not a problem, I did not try to open valve when below freezing. It does not leak or drip now.

[BarryD0706]

Wayne, good to hear. Maybe my first guess, that it just doesn't break when frozen, is correct.

You did have water in the "Fresh" tank didn't you? ;-)

[wmcclay]

Had water tank almost full, no tank heaters on. No water available from campground, even their water was frozen with dry risers. Before I left had to put my water hose in the hot tub at the campground so I could roll it up.

[BarryD0706]

No tank heaters either!?! Wow. It sounds like the underbelly heating works really well on these. Thanks Sanibel!