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Old 07-08-2014, 09:36 AM   #331
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Had my repair guy put 4 inch Sr tips of aluminum on both sides and no issues. Too bad PT can't fix issue. My guy had it done in one day.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:56 AM   #332
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My rig is scheduled to go back to PT this week and this issue is one of the ones on the list. I wonder what they will do about it.
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Old 07-08-2014, 04:31 PM   #333
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Had my repair guy put 4 inch Sr tips of aluminum on both sides and no issues. Too bad PT can't fix issue. My guy had it done in one day.
Curious how the aluminum was fastened??
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:05 PM   #334
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I believe that he lifted slide and bent the strips to go up the side where the white portion is then screwed it up also folded the end inside up and screwed. No issues since he did the fix. He told me this is the way he would have done it on his, but this is not how FR is fixing. Hope pic shows up.
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:21 PM   #335
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I love that. Makes me want to take the plastic ones off and do it that way.


Sent by ME
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Old 07-12-2014, 06:20 PM   #336
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Mostly just jumping in here as a subscriber as we will be picking up our '14 325RES on July 18th

Currently we have a Glendale Titanium that had somewhat the same issue with the BAL bedroom slide. The rollers were in many cases totally destroying the bottom surface which is some sort of 'plastic'. Several of us jumped the gun and did our own repair using .125 aluminum sheet countersunk screwed and siliconed to the bottom. The 'official' repair was a full size piece, but that amount really wasn't needed. Possibly a thinner and harder grade aluminum could have been used. I did ours in 2009 and as late as a couple hours ago, looked just fine with some expected minor scuffs. There have been no leaks though the slide was raised by that .125. Others did have a little slide to frame clearance problem, but suspect they used thicker plate.
This is what it looks like:



Layout for drilling:



I jacked the slide up about a quarter inch to slip the material in place.



This may be an alternative for some folks to consider over the Majestic plastic pieces
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Old 07-13-2014, 11:33 PM   #337
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All of the the repair systems for the torn Darco fabric look good: the plastic shields, UHMW polyethylene sheet, and now aluminum sheet. After 8 weeks of complaining to deaf ears at PT, I have just completed another method. I was able to jack up the slideout about 3/4" and install 3" wide x 1/32" thick Slick Strips (sold by elastics.com). Easy to install with peal-and-stick adhesive and then silicone the side edges, just under the side trim. Since these are relatively thin, no adjustment to the slideout is needed. I put about 24" wide section at each end and then about a 30" wide section under the frig. Slides smooth and easy, since the strips are UHMW polyethylene, same stuff as the slide bar.

We are lucky that we discovered this problem before the floor got wet and rotted out. There are thousands of owners who will not realize the problem until they need thousands $$ of repairs. Has anyone thought about a class action lawsuit. This could be really big, with thousands of rigs affected. Does anyone know a lawyer willing to take this on?
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:45 AM   #338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnDiesel View Post
All of the the repair systems for the torn Darco fabric look good: the plastic shields, UHMW polyethylene sheet, and now aluminum sheet. After 8 weeks of complaining to deaf ears at PT, I have just completed another method. I was able to jack up the slideout about 3/4" and install 3" wide x 1/32" thick Slick Strips (sold by elastics.com). Easy to install with peal-and-stick adhesive and then silicone the side edges, just under the side trim. Since these are relatively thin, no adjustment to the slideout is needed. I put about 24" wide section at each end and then about a 30" wide section under the frig. Slides smooth and easy, since the strips are UHMW polyethylene, same stuff as the slide bar.

We are lucky that we discovered this problem before the floor got wet and rotted out. There are thousands of owners who will not realize the problem until they need thousands $$ of repairs. Has anyone thought about a class action lawsuit. This could be really big, with thousands of rigs affected. Does anyone know a lawyer willing to take this on?
Looks good!

How did you go about jacking your slide?
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:58 PM   #339
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how I jacked up the slide out

Just make a Tee from 2x4's. Put the slideout all the way out, then retract about 1" so that the inside gaskets are not squished. Check for internal ceiling clearance as I had to remove a piece of trim. The cross bar (of the tee) goes under the slide floor (perpendicular to the length of the RV) and the stem on top of a bottle jack. I jacked up one end (about 4" from the end), placed a strip at the end, then placed a 3/4" wooden shim on the slide bar to hold the floor up. Move the jack and T to the other side and repeat. Move the jack and tee to the center and jack up 3/4" and apply the slick strips where the heaviest appliance is located. Use 3/4" wooden blocks to hold the floor up. I used masking tape to hold the rubber seals out of the way. Be careful not to jack up too much. You can feel the jack pressure go up when the slide out hits the upper wall opening; but in the center the floor will flex, so be careful and only jack up enough to place the block on the slide bar. Remove any blocks from the center before removing the blocks from the ends, because the ends support the most weight.
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Old 07-14-2014, 09:21 PM   #340
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[QUOTE=LynnDiesel;658416...... on top of a bottle jack............[/QUOTE]

Consider using a scissors jack instead of a hydraulic. When I did the BR slide on our Titanium, I started with a bottle jack, but I didn't have any 'feel' for movement so dug out my ancient 2 speed Craftsman scissor jack and used that instead. Also, they don't leak down at the worst possible time.
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