surge protection

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by BigTJohn

I do have question for those with the remote readout. Do you actually use/look at the readout or only when first connecting to power? I know when there is an elec problem, the unit shuts down power to the rig, monitors for when it comes back, checks for quality of power then allows power to flow. I guess my real question is: why have a remote readout? Unless you are watching it the moment power goes "wonkie" (an electrical technical term) you will not know why until the power comes back on and you can poll the remote to what the problem "was" - was...the problem is over, nothing you can do about it (if it was incoming power problem) and now the power is back on, your protector has done its job and all is "hunky dory" (the last technical term I'll use). I just can't see spending $100 or so for remote that essentially tells me nothing until after the event. Just sayin'.

I look at it all the time.
Watch incoming voltage.
Watch total amp draw.

I like to see how close I am to my max amps when running a/c and other items.

TURBS

[kohai]

Originally Posted by BigTJohn

I do have question for those with the remote readout. Do you actually use/look at the readout or only when first connecting to power? I know when there is an elec problem, the unit shuts down power to the rig, monitors for when it comes back, checks for quality of power then allows power to flow. I guess my real question is: why have a remote readout? Unless you are watching it the moment power goes "wonkie" (an electrical technical term) you will not know why until the power comes back on and you can poll the remote to what the problem "was" - was...the problem is over, nothing you can do about it (if it was incoming power problem) and now the power is back on, your protector has done its job and all is "hunky dory" (the last technical term I'll use). I just can't see spending $100 or so for remote that essentially tells me nothing until after the event. Just sayin'.

The display also tells you your current power consumption in amps, what voltage level is coming in, and on which leg of the power the load from the trailer is on.

[jtownstumpjumper]

Originally Posted by BigTJohn

I do have question for those with the remote readout. Do you actually use/look at the readout or only when first connecting to power? I know when there is an elec problem, the unit shuts down power to the rig, monitors for when it comes back, checks for quality of power then allows power to flow. I guess my real question is: why have a remote readout? Unless you are watching it the moment power goes "wonkie" (an electrical technical term) you will not know why until the power comes back on and you can poll the remote to what the problem "was" - was...the problem is over, nothing you can do about it (if it was incoming power problem) and now the power is back on, your protector has done its job and all is "hunky dory" (the last technical term I'll use). I just can't see spending $100 or so for remote that essentially tells me nothing until after the event. Just sayin'.

Yeah, I agree it's a little pricey for the remote, but I also totally agree with the two previous post as to it's usage.....I mounted mine up inside my control panel and as they said.....just open the door to my control panel and I can instantly see the load on both legs with voltage and amp readings....you'll learn in time where your heavy loads are and what they're pulling....just another informative toy for us RVer's to install.

[BigTJohn]

So you stare at it, constantly, watching the little numbers change, 26 amps. 121 vac, 27 amps leg 2, 124 vac, etc, etc?? Duh, not what I plan on doing camping. HA!! I know, just a glance every now and then but when power changes happen, it is really fast and looking at the a blank panel to tell you power is off...well. Check with OC, I bet he has cool method.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by BigTJohn

So you stare at it, constantly, watching the little numbers change, 26 amps. 121 vac, 27 amps leg 2, 124 vac, etc, etc?? Duh, not what I plan on doing camping. HA!! I know, just a glance every now and then but when power changes happen, it is really fast and looking at the a blank panel to tell you power is off...well. Check with OC, I bet he has cool method.

Mostly I look at it when first plugging in.
When I'm plugged into my gennie I look at it more often.
But like the previous poster I open the door during high load situations just to see what's happening.

TURBS

[DodgeCamper]

Originally Posted by kohai

On my PI with the internal display, there is a button on the display I have to push to let it work with the generators. I think it isn't seeing the ground and won't run in that mode without overriding it (which is normal for the generators). I use two honda 2000s.

What model do you use?

[kohai]

Originally Posted by DodgeCamper

What model do you use?

EMS-HW50C

[kohai]

Originally Posted by TURBS

You need to make a neutral bonded plug to stick in one of the 15 amp receptacles.
I also posted this in post 13

Then you can use your gennie with the PI unit

Generator Ground-Neutral Bonding | No~Shock~Zone

I went and bought a plug today and built one. I'll try it out next time I'm on generator power.... when the snow melts.... and it's warm.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by kohai

I went and bought a plug today and built one. I'll try it out next time I'm on generator power.... when the snow melts.... and it's warm.

Sounds good to me!

TURBS

[hammer55]

true, I cannot see the use for me either, it doesn't keep a record, and I really don't care how much power I am using, when at home I don't use any real power, and when I am connected to a pole at a camp site, it doesn't matter either, because I am paying a flat rate per night, so I just went with the cheaper receptacle remote one, where I see what is up with the power when I plug it in, the web site said they all had the life time warranty, but maybe I am wrong, usually am besides I am a cheap skate,,,,

Originally Posted by BigTJohn

I do have question for those with the remote readout. Do you actually use/look at the readout or only when first connecting to power? I know when there is an elec problem, the unit shuts down power to the rig, monitors for when it comes back, checks for quality of power then allows power to flow. I guess my real question is: why have a remote readout? Unless you are watching it the moment power goes "wonkie" (an electrical technical term) you will not know why until the power comes back on and you can poll the remote to what the problem "was" - was...the problem is over, nothing you can do about it (if it was incoming power problem) and now the power is back on, your protector has done its job and all is "hunky dory" (the last technical term I'll use). I just can't see spending $100 or so for remote that essentially tells me nothing until after the event. Just sayin'.

[BombDoc]

Originally Posted by BigTJohn

So you stare at it, constantly, watching the little numbers change, 26 amps. 121 vac, 27 amps leg 2, 124 vac, etc, etc?? Duh, not what I plan on doing camping. HA!! I know, just a glance every now and then but when power changes happen, it is really fast and looking at the a blank panel to tell you power is off...well. Check with OC, I bet he has cool method.

I understand exactly what you are saying about staring at the display. I mounted mine under the lip of the stairs leading to the bedroom. From this vantage point, I can sit in my recliner (rear living set up) and see the numbers scroll while relaxing in the chair or watching tv. I can also open the door when its parked at home on shore power and see what is going on without having to go inside the rig. I like the display because if there is a problem at the pedestal it will tell you what the problem is, i.e. open ground, reveresed polarity, etc before power is allowed to pass. I took the small card that came with the unit that explains the error codes and taped it to the inside of the control panel door where I check black tank levels and open and close the slides. That way if an error pops, I can quickly see why. Without the display, I would have no idea why power was not being allowed to pass to the RV from the pedestal.

[dustman_stx]

Originally Posted by TURBS

Get a hardwired progressive industries.
Don't mess around with a pedestal unit.
1 hour to install.
No worries of theft.
Made in the USA
Lifetime warranty.

X2

Some things are debatable, but which surge protector is best isn't. The Progressive Industries is made in the US, has a lifetime warranty AND it offers better protection. If you search you can find a table comparing all of the specifications of the different brands and models.

[fonzie]

RV Surge Protector Comparison

[lbrjet]

Not going to get into the 'best' argument, but here is my story. Got my first trailer 6 years ago and took our first trip. Got the portable Progressive EMS 30. Set up in the pouring rain and was holding the unit flat so that rain went right into the plug. Just wasn't paying attention. Plugged it in and poof, fried circuit boards inside. Called PI when we got home and explained my stupidity about how it happened and it didn't matter to them. They said to send it in and they will fix it, no charge. Got it back a couple of weeks later and no problems over the past 6 years. Upgraded trailers 4 years ago and still using the same portable. That is one benefit of the portable unit. I locked it up for the first few years, but haven't bothered in the last 150 or so campgrounds we have been in over the last few years.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K

[jtstromsburg]

I have/has the 50a hardwired with remote display. I run two AC's often, and when on only 30a power, I can set what each leg use pulling and have always been able to adjust load to allow both 15k btu AC's to run on only 30a. Without the display, id be guessing which may be fine, but it's a huge asset to know without getting my tools and meter out.

[Ddubya]

I have a 50 amp fiver but run 30 amp most of the time. I installed a 50 amp progressive unit and it has worked out great.


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[retiredcamper47]

I use the Progressive 30 amp portable unit. It did it's job this past Wed while camping. Saved my butt! I called Progressive today and told them what happened to it and the codes. No problem, mailed it to them this afternoon. They now have a new address: Progressive Industries, 1020 Goodworth Drive, Apex, NC 27539. Great product and great service.

Bob