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Old 04-26-2014, 10:33 PM   #11
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I would measure the frame right in front of the front spring hanger and right at the rear of the rear axle hanger to the ground for both.
I venture a guess that there isnt going to be much more than 1"-1.5" difference. If thats the case I personally would worry about it, the equilizer will easily compensate for that much difference.

I always run nose high on all the trailers I pull. I am running about 6" higher than stock on my truck, and have never had an issue with any trailers, and all my longer trailers (30'+ and 1 is tripple axle) are probably the same 4-6"+ higher in the front than rear.
Well, Other than one state cg my tail almost drug going up an incline to our spot.

After measuring suspension points I would call lippert and ask what the tolerances on suspension variation are, before I spent to much time and money on it.
Just my 2 pennys....and of course that and a dollar thirty five might get u a cup of coffee ; )


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Old 04-26-2014, 10:36 PM   #12
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Oh, btw nice settup!!

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Old 04-27-2014, 11:16 AM   #13
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I like Dave's idea of the correct track. New trucks are getting very high and the manufacturer can't possibly change ride hight to match every year (we don't all tow with new trucks).
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Old 04-27-2014, 11:42 AM   #14
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I've had the same issues with the 5th wheels I've towed over the years. Prior to getting my new truck, I had the dealership put a lift on the trailer to level it out. Relatively inexpensive.
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Old 04-29-2014, 03:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSolomon View Post
I've had the same issues with the 5th wheels I've towed over the years. Prior to getting my new truck, I had the dealership put a lift on the trailer to level it out. Relatively inexpensive.
The dealer today said the trailer already has the axles flipped. They said I would need to get blocks added by a welder and they gave me a reference. I lowered my hitch down one level and it has helped -- I didn't lose much space at all between the bed rails and the 5th wheel bottom. I still need to do something but looks like it won't be through the dealer.
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:10 PM   #16
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Nice rig. Both TV and fiver. My current fiver sits level but my bed clearance was only 5-6" on previous fiver. I have small dimples in each bedside from fiver contacting the truck in uneven diagonal RR crossing near my house. A test drive thru uneven areas and some maneuvering around in a large parking lot will let you know if you have a contact issue. Good luck.

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Old 04-29-2014, 06:30 PM   #17
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Measurement locations could be a little off. I pick a horizontal plane to measure from the bottom of the frame is a good one. Be sure the second plane(the ground) is level, no pot-holes or drop-offs. I measured off the frame’s plane down from between axles(B) and down from tongue(A), with a 5th-er you have to project the plane out to where the pin is. The difference in the two heights (A-B) should get you darn close to how far off and how much you'll have to raise or lower or combination.

Not to complicate things but Instead of projecting forward to pin and trying to guess down from the frame’s plane. If you know the distance from pin to between the axles(plum bob and tape) you could measure that distance and down from any where on the frame. Your frame should have the same angle to the ground everywhere. The difference (A-B) will be the same
Am I explaining this right?
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:03 PM   #18
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You might try driving up on stacked blocks until the trailer is level and see how much riser you will have to have on the suspension.
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:41 PM   #19
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These 2500HDs are pretty tall for sure. My Sandpiper was about that unlevel and I had it weighed.....WHOA. "Nearly" dry weight of both axles was 9800lbs. Rear axle was dying with 6200lbs on it and 3600 on the front. I lowered the head of my B&W Companion 2 holes (around 2") and the load changed to 5220 on the front axle and 4580 on the rear. This put me at a very short 6" between the bedrails and the FW. Thinking about moving back up 1 hole since most of the stuff we load in the FW is forward of the front axle. Fortunately I did not have to mess with my FW suspension. OC and the guys will help you figure this one out for sure.
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:59 PM   #20
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I have the same problem with my 8280WS and 2013 F350 SWR. Unfortunately, I have Alko torsion axles and there is no adjustment available. I weighed the axles separately and found around 300 lbs. more weight on the rear axle, but still less than the axle or tire rating. Since the 8280WS is a rear kitchen, some of the weight difference could be just the floorplan. I towed it around 1300 miles and noticed no adverse effects. I also had Tire Minders, and saw no significant difference in either pressure or temperature readings, front to rear, albeit in January. As to the chucking, I was previously towing with a Silverado 1500, and had chucking that was very annoying. I changed out the pin box for a Reese Airborne, and it made a big difference.
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