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Old 04-30-2014, 07:29 PM   #21
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I have the same 296bhs and pull with a 2010 F250. I look exactly as you do being nose high. I am on the lowest hitch setting. My bumper scraped twice coming outta the driveway so I am on a mission to get it fixed. I ordered a 1" Lift Block kit and X-factor from Mor/ryde. These are the tallest they currently make/ recommend. It is also the same kit Crusader used in thier recent recall.

My Lift kit should be here any day so I will let you know how it works. All in all it cost about $300 in parts. I also had 2500lb helper springs in my Truck from the PO. I just yanked them out tonight, so that may also help my problem. I hope it doesnt "Squat" the truck too much without the helpers but it should make for a better dailey drive anyways.

Ill let you know how the lift kit works out, but I suspect it will help just enuf! It will be about a week before I get it installed.
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:35 PM   #22
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Heres a pic of my setup. Because of the angle it almost looks level, but is sits ex actly like your picture.
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Old 04-30-2014, 11:25 PM   #23
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I ordered a 1" Lift Block kit and X-factor from Mor/ryde. These are the tallest they currently make/ recommend.
Where did you get your 1" Lift Block kit? I need to lift mine because of the new TV I got last month. I am considering the Correct Track kit, but if the Lift Block kit is easier to install, I would go for that instead.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:26 AM   #24
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Google Mor/Ryde. They have a wensite. The kit is not on thier website. I ordered (1) X-factor you can add up to three. I would add at least one as that is what Prime Time Factory Did in thier recall. That being said, I ordered these parts over two weeks ago and still havent gotten them. Ill let you know what it all looks like when I see it
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:08 AM   #25
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Google Mor/Ryde. They have a wensite. The kit is not on thier website. I ordered (1) X-factor you can add up to three. I would add at least one as that is what Prime Time Factory Did in thier recall. That being said, I ordered these parts over two weeks ago and still havent gotten them. Ill let you know what it all looks like when I see it
Thanks for your info and picture, your setup definitely looks like mine. When I look at the Mor Ryde website it describes the X-factor crossmember as:

"The X Factor crossmember is the latest product in the MOR/ryde line of suspension system and aftermarket products. The X Factor crossmember is designed to provide added lateral support to fifth wheel and travel trailer frames. Using high strength low alloy steel, the X Factor greatly reduces frame stress from rough roads, tight cornering or extreme side forces. The result is up to 94% reduction in frame stress at each location."

Is that what you are installing or is it something else?
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:34 PM   #26
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Yes. When you install Lift Blocks (Which normally are not preffered) as they create more sideways stress on everything. Mor/ryde and Prime Time recommend at least (1) X factor in the middle. (Between the two center hangars) This doesnt add to the lift but instead helps reduce the side stress loads. The blocks are the key, but they are not listed anywhere on thier website. My parts actually just arrived today, but I just moved my Camper to the campground for the weekend so I wont get to install them for a few days
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:43 PM   #27
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I don't have a fifth wheel but I have been reading up a lot on proper towing. For best handling, you want the tow vehicle and trailer as level as possible. I assume being a little off is ok as I have been towing for years like this, but what they say about swaying and proper weight distribution, get both vehicles as level as you can.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:48 PM   #28
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I have a new 2015 GMC 2500HD and a new 2014 Crusader 296bhs. I just got both of them. I'm really surprised that my stock setup has a nose high problem. I would think that Prime Time would be manufacturing for heights of the current stock trucks.

I measured the trailer frame at the front (below the battery compartment) to the ground and then measured the frame at the back of the trailer to the ground. It's about a 6" difference.

The clearance from the bed rails to the bottom of the bedroom area is currently 7". While the Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection does have one lower setting for the hitch, it would put me under 6" clearance. I'm already concerned about the pinbox potentially hitting the side bed rails on turns (I need to get out and test whether this is a real concern or not.)

So, for my sanity check, is this the correct way to measure how out of whack the level is currently?

Picture attached.
I have found that lowering my Andersen Ultimate 5th wheel connection ball height to the lowest level puts my trailer's king pin mounting metal too close to my bed rails when turning hard.

The Andersen hitch puts the pivot point back 5.25" from the normal pivot point. That means the length of the pin box is several inches longer -- which means it can hit the bed rails easily. When towing forward, I have plenty of room to the tailgate, but when turning hard I run the risk of hitting my be drails with the back side of my pin box.

I think this is a problem for Andersen because whether the hitch will work or not is dependent on the trailer and the box you have. There's no way to know really without measuring it. (I didn't have my trailer when I ordered my hitch.)

Anyway, if I remember I'll post a picture for the archive just in case somebody in the future is looking at this with a Crusader 296BHS.

I see a Crusader across the way here at the RV park, maybe I'll walk by and see what hitch he is using.
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Old 05-07-2014, 03:02 PM   #29
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I have found that lowering my Andersen Ultimate 5th wheel connection ball height to the lowest level puts my trailer's king pin mounting metal too close to my bed rails when turning hard.

The Andersen hitch puts the pivot point back 5.25" from the normal pivot point. That means the length of the pin box is several inches longer -- which means it can hit the bed rails easily. When towing forward, I have plenty of room to the tailgate, but when turning hard I run the risk of hitting my be drails with the back side of my pin box.

I think this is a problem for Andersen because whether the hitch will work or not is dependent on the trailer and the box you have. There's no way to know really without measuring it. (I didn't have my trailer when I ordered my hitch.)

Anyway, if I remember I'll post a picture for the archive just in case somebody in the future is looking at this with a Crusader 296BHS.

I see a Crusader across the way here at the RV park, maybe I'll walk by and see what hitch he is using.
I flipped my king pin/ball adapter on the Andersen hitch and have more wiggle room. I can turn tighter now and the risk is more the cap hitting the truck cab instead of the king in hitting the rails. I'm new to this so I'm still nervous about hitting the truck.
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Old 05-07-2014, 05:59 PM   #30
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I installed the 1" Lift Blocks from Mor/Ryde and 1 X-factor between the center perches. Yesterday. Parts all worked well and I gained 2-1/2" to 2-3/4" additional height at the bumper. This will surely level me out much nicer! I would definatally reccomend this, and if anyone is thinking of ordering a new 296bhs I would suggest they order it with the 16" wheel option as that may help to avoid this.
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