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Old 05-09-2011, 11:42 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by grhodes50 View Post
I have the same tt as you, but I haven't camped needing to run the AC yet. I have ran the furnance without issues, but that's not the same as the AC.
I will be camping in a couple of weeks and I anticipate I will be running the AC then. I will let you know if I have the same issues you are experiencing.
No trouble with the heater here either we had to use it a couple of mornings when ol man winter came back right before Easter.. so one season of the 4 season trailer ok so far, hope you DON'T have any trouble.
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:47 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by TheSasks View Post
FYI
  • Air Conditioner 15-17 amps
  • Refrigerator 5.7 amps
  • Electric Water Heater 12.5 amps
  • Microwave Oven 12.8 amps
  • Electric Coffee Pot 9 amps
  • Toaster 10 amps
  • Hair Dryer 10-12 amps
  • TV 2 amps
  • Dirt Devil Hand Vacuum 2 amps
  • Electric Fry Pan 10 amps
  • Iron 10 amps
  • Food Processor 6 amps
  • Crock Pot 1.5 amps
  • Heating Pad 0.5 amps
  • 1,100 Watt Heater 10 amps
  • Laptop computer 2-3 amps
Thanks for the info, but as you can see on a 30 amp rig your out of luck with the top 3 items you rely most when your in these 24/7 365.
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Old 05-09-2011, 11:51 AM   #13
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Sasks - we have a similar list of power draw on our web site that often helps answer questions. Thanks for posting.

Prime Time Manufacturing, Manufacturers of travel trailers and fifth wheels

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Old 05-09-2011, 11:51 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by tbritt View Post
Thanks for the info, but as you can see on a 30 amp rig your out of luck with the top 3 items you rely most when your in these 24/7 365.
Exactly, IMO they should never put a 15k AC unit on a 30amp service RV. When the option for a 15k AC unit is selected it should automatically give you a 50A service and as long as it is documented why the AC upgarde costs so much people should be ok with the $$ more or less. Or at the very least make it an option and explain why as well as make the dealers more informed on stuff like this to properly advise the customer.
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:20 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by TheSasks View Post
FYI
  • Air Conditioner 15-17 amps
  • Refrigerator 5.7 amps
  • Electric Water Heater 12.5 amps
  • Microwave Oven 12.8 amps
  • Electric Coffee Pot 9 amps
  • Toaster 10 amps
  • Hair Dryer 10-12 amps
  • TV 2 amps
  • Dirt Devil Hand Vacuum 2 amps
  • Electric Fry Pan 10 amps
  • Iron 10 amps
  • Food Processor 6 amps
  • Crock Pot 1.5 amps
  • Heating Pad 0.5 amps
  • 1,100 Watt Heater 10 amps
  • Laptop computer 2-3 amps
Well it looks like the math does not look good. 17 + 5.7 + 12.5 = 35.2 You may want to try
to run the hotwater heater on gas and see if the breader trips.
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Old 05-11-2011, 10:54 AM   #16
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We ran the numbers yesterday when the service team came out.
1.A/C pulling 14.9 high..13.7 low(only got to 82degees yesterday)
2.W/H ran 13.6 high when it cycled(it has a 11.66 amp heating element?)
3.Frig. pulled 5.8(when it cycled) normal 2.8 ?)
Input to the power box was a consent 31.1amps that the trailer was pulling with just those 3 units. So one could see if they were to cycle at once it would go.
I know the 34.3 total and the 31.1 draw don't add up but without a way to record the pull as it happends thats all we could messure.
I know when we hit those 95 plus days the A/C & Frig. will pull more.
its a good thing we have showers at the park.
We'll bite the bullet on the W/H on propane and see what happends.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:38 AM   #17
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[I know when we hit those 95 plus days the A/C & Frig. will pull more.
I don't think so, but others may correct me. The higher temperature will make your AC and fridge cycle more, but shouldn't cause them to pull anymore amps while they are running. You AC compressor or the heating element to the fridge should just have 2 modes.....on or off.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:56 AM   #18
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I don't think so, but others may correct me. The higher temperature will make your AC and fridge cycle more, but shouldn't cause them to pull anymore amps while they are running. You AC compressor or the heating element to the fridge should just have 2 modes.....on or off.
I may be old school but the longer and harder things run motor/compressor the hoter they get with more heat, less resitance, means more current draw. May be wrong!!!
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:22 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by tbritt View Post
I may be old school but the longer and harder things run motor/compressor the hoter they get with more heat, less resitance, means more current draw. May be wrong!!!
Hmmm, maybe to a lesser extent for the AC compressor......the fridge is a heating element, so that should not be affected. What I was trying to imply was that the AC compressor does not run harder for any give time just because it is hotter outside.
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Old 05-11-2011, 08:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbritt View Post
We ran the numbers yesterday when the service team came out.
1.A/C pulling 14.9 high..13.7 low(only got to 82degees yesterday)
2.W/H ran 13.6 high when it cycled(it has a 11.66 amp heating element?)
3.Frig. pulled 5.8(when it cycled) normal 2.8 ?)
Input to the power box was a consent 31.1amps that the trailer was pulling with just those 3 units. So one could see if they were to cycle at once it would go.
I know the 34.3 total and the 31.1 draw don't add up but without a way to record the pull as it happends thats all we could messure.
I know when we hit those 95 plus days the A/C & Frig. will pull more.
its a good thing we have showers at the park.
We'll bite the bullet on the W/H on propane and see what happends.
If the service team has an electrician, he can set his amp meter on "min/max" and that wil capture the start up surge current from those devices. FYI a good 30 amp breaker shouldn't trip until 37.5 amps.
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