Winterization

[rdh3759]

Hello all,

New too the forum and I'm sure that this has been answered before, but maybe not!


I have a 33' Lacrosse Travel Trailer that I'm winterizing for the season. It has three low point drains, which I opened and let drain!
Never had these before, so it's a first time on my end, in using them!


They aren't really marked as to what they drain. The first one (most forward) drained a lot, while the other two trickled a bit! As they were draining, I opened the sinks and tub faucets. After it was done draining, I closed the faucets and then turn all the bypass valves and filled the lines with the antifreeze.


1) Do I still need to drain out the hot water tank, by removing the plug or do one of the low point drains do this?


2) Should I open those low point drains again, in order to get the antifreeze into those lines also?


Any help is appreciated!


Thanks,


rdh3759
Pgh., Pa.

[Ford Idaho]

Odds are the one that drain the most was your FW tank which should have an uncapped overflow tube.

Low points, one for the hot side and one for cold.

Remove the plug or anode which ever you have, be sure to open the pressure relief valve first.

I screw the low point drain caps minus the washer on loose, fire up the pump and let the pink flow for a couple of seconds.

[rdh3759]

Thanks!

[dreamer5th]

If you search the internet for: Mark Polk, RV winterizing, you will find a step-by-step list that he has written. I've been using it annually for years with success. Good luck!

[Moellerdan]

Originally Posted by rdh3759

1) Do I still need to drain out the hot water tank, by removing the plug or do one of the low point drains do this?

You should set your bypass valves on your water heater BEFORE draining your low point valves. Don't use your low points to drain your water heater! All the crusty white junk in your water heater will then drain through your water lines, and you'll run the risk of forcing this crud into your toilet valves or any other valves along the line when you introduce fresh water or antifreeze. You should still drain the water heater by removing the anode rod (remember to clean threads and add fresh Teflon tape before reinstalling anode rod).

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Moellerdan

You should set your bypass valves on your water heater BEFORE draining your low point valves. Don't use your low points to drain your water heater! All the crusty white junk in your water heater will then drain through your water lines, and you'll run the risk of forcing this crud into your toilet valves or any other valves along the line when you introduce fresh water or antifreeze. You should still drain the water heater by removing the anode rod (remember to clean threads and add fresh Teflon tape before reinstalling anode rod).

X's 2 or you really have a problem, also if you don't have wand make one up with a piece of plex and a female hose connector and flush the crud out of the W/H before you reinstall the anode rod, you'll be surprised at what comes out...

[rdh3759]

Ok thanks! Several of you have said to remove the anode rod! Is that located with the pressure release valve, if I were to take it all the way out, or somewhere else? On my last trailer, I just removed the drain plug!

My tank sits under my kitchen area, but I can easily access the drain plug.

[Ford Idaho]

Do you have an Atwood or a Suburban water heater?


Atwood does not have an anode rod it's just a plastic plug like this.

[Moellerdan]

Originally Posted by rdh3759

Ok thanks! Several of you have said to remove the anode rod! Is that located with the pressure release valve, if I were to take it all the way out, or somewhere else? On my last trailer, I just removed the drain plug!

My tank sits under my kitchen area, but I can easily access the drain plug.

My Suburban has the anode rod/drain plug combo. It takes a 1 1/16 inch socket to remove the plug/anode rod.

[rdh3759]

I'm gonna say I have the Atwood, because it looks just like that picture!

[grhodes50]

Prime Time installs the Atwood water heaters in their campers, so no anode rod.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by rdh3759

I'm gonna say I have the Atwood, because it looks just like that picture!

Release the pressure relief valve slowly while standing to one side, remove the plug and let the water run out.

At this time I just finger tighten the plug for my Atwood to keep spiders and such out.

[rdh3759]

Thank you-I'm familiar with that one because my old trailer had the same set-up, minus the low point drains!

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by grhodes50

Prime Time installs the Atwood water heaters in their campers, so no anode rod.

I got a Suburban water heater.......

[rdh3759]

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[rracer5]

Originally Posted by rdh3759

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Sorry, if you're addressing me, I just meant that my Sanibel came with a Suburban water heater. It has the PIA anode rod that has to be replaced periodically. I've had both and I liked the Atwood better. I didn't have any problems with either brand over the past 8 years it's just the Atwood was easier to work with regarding the anode rod. Winterizing being the same on either one.

[grhodes50]

Originally Posted by rracer5

I got a Suburban water heater.......

Well that's what I get for assuming.

The two PT's I've owned (LaCrosse & Crusader) have had the Atwoods as well as a few other PT trailers I've looked at on dealer's lots.

Guess I didn't look close enough at the Sanibels.

[rdh3759]

Another question regarding winterization!

Do you remove your battery(s) from the trailers?

[Vern]

Originally Posted by rdh3759

Another question regarding winterization!

Do you remove your battery(s) from the trailers?

I do, when I leave the TT at the storage facility for the winter, so that I can periodically charge it up and/or place it on a trickle charge at home in order to be ready to go when I pick up the TT in the Spring.

[rdh3759]

Thanks everyone for the quick responses!